SCSC 311 Cotton Exam

Order:

Family:

Genus:

Species:

Malvales

Malvaceae

Gossypium L. (cotton)

-hirsutum (upland cotton)

-barbadense (pima or extra long staple (ELS))

arboreum

herbaceum

what is the earliest we see cotton?

By Spanish in 1556

Was cotton common?

Not particularly, it was more of a supplemental crop for wool from europe. 1774 clerk in Liverpool certified 8 sacks of seedcotton as contraband because he had never seen that much cotton from the americas (mostly West Indies)

Did the English embrace the cotton industry?

No, because it was affecting the wool industry, so they passed laws to protect the industry in 1700 and 1721. They were more interested in tobacco, corn , lumber and silk (there was a requirement that every land holding of a given size in Carolina have 1 mulberry tree per 10 acres for silkworms

Why would cotton be a necessity for the New World?

Warmer weather than in England. Wool may have worked in New England area, but in southern regions would have been way too hot and not giving enough air.

What were the Old World cottons and how did they get over here?

Gossypium aboreum or G. herbaceum which would have been brought over my immagrants. G. aboreum was selected from herbaceum coming from Levant (eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea)

What was early movement of diploid cotton like?

A. Cotton came from South Africa (G. herbaceum race africanum) where it was transported by gold traders in Zimbabwe and Mozambique up to Ethopia, Iran and Arabia

B. Here the cotton evolved naturally into G. herbaceum race acerfolium

Where is the oldest known use of cotton?

Mohenjo-Daro in Pakistan from about 2300 BC

What is G. barbadense?

pima; american-egyptian; egyptian; sea island, ELS (all G. barbadense types are not ELS)

How did this cultivar come to be?

Frank Levett; Sapelo Island, GA 1786 received a bad of seed (assumed to be from Brazil) and by 1979 biotype of sea island type was established

What is G. hirusum?

It is American upland or upland cotton

Where did the upland cotton come from?

In 1806 Walter Burland on behalf of France went to Mexico to ask the Spanish for their cotton which was successful. They responded that they couldn't give him cotton due to the countries political disputes, but suggested that he take some Mexican dolls home which were stuffed full of cotton seed.

During Pre- Columbian times what did the distribution of cotton look like in North and South America?

In North and Central America (and some of the West Indies) G. hirusum was more popularly distributed. In South America and the West Indies they had more barbadense.

14. Aboreum vs Hirusum?

H- is more tree like with sparse branching and white cotton

A- More bushy with thicker vegetation with a yellowish flower

Spread of Cultivars

1868:19 -> 1880:58 -> 1895:118 -> 1907: >600

The cause of this diversity is from the introduction of the boll weevil in Texas in 1892 and widespread of it in 1898

Early Boll Weevil (Anthonomus grandus) control

Up to 90% crop loss

Control only by hand removal, row direction and furrow depth, stalk destruction, early maturity, and moving from north to west

17. G. hirsutum development

1905 collection in Chiapas had large bolls and apparent quality but failed to germinate

1906 recollected near Acala which led to upland types here

1907 ff selections in Tx and OK and tested in CA in 1919

Led to NM and CA acala types

1921 growing millions of bales of upland but little to no sea island (none in US today)

18. Upland vs sea island cotton

U- assortment of fabrics

SI- strong fabrics such as sails and fine/delicare fabrics and sewing thread

19. G. Barbadense development

1900 was introduced in Egypt (Mitafifi)

Hybridization bt sea island and jumels cotton tree in cairo

1908 yuma released the pima s1 then pima s8 in 1998

Traditionally in AZ today, but CA has highest acreage

20. Barbadense fiber qualities

Short st. in TX and OK

2.5- 4.5 Units un 1in in length and not very strong

Medium St. in SE, MS, parts of SW

1-1.11 in long, 3.2-5 units

Long St. in NM, AZ, and Cali

1.11-1.28 in long, 3.5-4.9 units

Pima in AZ and Cali

Longer (up to 1.45 in)

21. Eradication of the screwworm

Us in 1966 takes advantage of two simple biological factors: 1) the male screwworm fly is very sexually aggressive, and 2) the female only mates once in her lifetime, so pupae are infected with atomic radiation which inhibits ovary and testes development resulting in sterile adults

Developed by Dr. Ed Knipling

22. What about weevil eradication?

In 2001 had collected hundreds of thousands but in 2003 only collected 145

There are 16 zones in TX which 12 of represent more than 5.7 mil acres and were active in 2003

Most places in US and Mexico are eradicated or almost there since 2009

23. What are the two types of spinning?

Align and twist: ring spinning (and air jet)

Align and wrap: open ended spinning

24. Where did spinning start?

Its unknown, but it was found in all ancient cultures in both the Old (wool) and New (llama) World

25. Evolution of spinning

Began with spinning stick or spindle

500-1000 AD in India- spinning wheel turned spindle, but still twisted fibers bt thumb and forefinger, Then came the foot peddle added to turn wheel freeing both hands

26. Cleaning and aligning fibers

2 pieces of wood with inset rows of teeth (CARDS) pull one across the other resulting in untangled fibers, short fibers falling out, long ones parallel and produce slight twist called sliver

One more twist- roving, more twisting and drafting- yarn

27. Where does sliver come from?

Old English word or slifan meaning to split or cleave

28. James Hargrave

1767 developed Spinning Jenny which had multiple spindles per wheel

Work of 11 men replaced by 1

Not suitable for warp or length-wise yarns, too weak

29. Richard Arkwright

1769 added a set of rollers to jenny which turned at different speeds

This further straightened fibers in roving prior to final twist

Produced stronger fiber making 100% cotton possible

30. Samuel Compton

1779 developed Mule Jenny which combined features of the previous 2

31. James Thorpe

1828 developed the Ring Spinning Frame and is not changed for 140 ears

Dominated until 1900 and still does

32. 1900 Improvements

1970- open ended spinning

Air Jets

33. Rotor Spinning Production

1970: denims created from large yarn with short staple and needed strength (open ended spinning) 2000: rotors replaced the ring to produce 1) finer yarns and 2) increased speeds to make lower cost per unit yarn produced

34. Yarn counts

Inversely related to size of yarn

1 hank(NE)= 1 lbs= 840 yards

35. Spinning Machinery

Air Jet 450 m/min 115 %

Rotor 190 m/min 100 %

Ring 21 m/min 125 %

Ring and Air jet produce more versatile fiber and therefore more productive than rotor

36. When does blending of fabrics take place?

During roving

37. Ring vs Air Jet vs Rotor Spinning

Ri- Helix angle on twist

Ro-wrapped fibers perpendicular to yarn form

AJ- very similar to wring but not as straight, more sticking out

38. What is weaving?

A process of producing fabric by interlacing of yarns

Probably began with basket weaving

39. Yarn Directions

Warp- length wise, provides strength

Weft- cross yarns

40. What is a device that aids in weaving?

Looms

41. J. Kay

1788 Flying Shuttle was a shed (stick) heddle bar

42. Spinning/Weaving Process

a. Blending- combining bales in the opening room

b. Cleaning- removing trash

c. Picking- cleaning and opening of fibers (picker lap)

d. Carding- opens picker lap to further clean and twist (sliver)

e. Drawing- combines slivers (roving)

f. Spinning- draw and twist or open and wrap (yarn)

g. Warping- roll yarns onto warp beam

h. Slashing- adding size

i. Weaving- interlacing yarn to make fabric

43. What was the cotton industry like in 1790?

Demand was increasing but there were little craftsmen and apprentices to take over the industry. Supply of lint is problems because one man can only gin a lb a day

44. Eli Whitney

Patented gin 14 march 1794 and expected to make a fortune with it

It was a simple design and easily copied leading to 60+ court battles

He used hooks which led to later battles over saws

45. Us Production due to gin

1790: 3159 bales

1800:73000 bales (23 fold increase)

1825 (whitney dead): 531000 bales (168 fold increase)

46. First Patent for Mechanical Harvester

1850, then 10 patents a year up to 1935

47. Sled Type Stripper

1926 in Lubbock

48. John Rust

1931 invented spindle picker that utilized 2 directional movements, barbed spindles and water 2010: 300 bales/ day- Based on 1.5 bales/ac; 200 ac; 8 hrs/day; 6 row picker

1950 introduced the 2 row and 1980s introduced the 4-6 row

49. Who developed the Module?

Lambert H. Wilkes at Texas A&M

Used since 1972 and stores over 90% of harvested cotton

50. one of the top three inventions in mechanized cotton production?

Modules

51. Cotton seen in early US

1621- VA

1664- South Caroline

1735- Georgia

Spreads to MD, NJ, and DE as supplies are cut off

57. LAI

>1 usually and shedding will occur above 2.5

52. Churka

Or Roller gins are set up in Philly to provide lint to those who would help spin and weave army uniforms in the Revolutionary War

53. Epicotyl

Area above attachment of cotyledons

Becomes apical meristem and area of cell division

May be 1 true leaf

54. Radicle

1st to emerge from seedcoat, becomes root

55. Prophylls

small inconspicuous leaves, 1st one on any branch(5mm)

56. True Leaves

V1 leaf is not lobed; climax shape by V5 and normal is 3 or 4 lobes

3/8's phyllotaxy

7 to 11 leaf initials in apical meristem above youngest unfolded leaf

58. Monopodia

Vegetative branch

59. Podite

Segment of a limb

60. Sympodia

Reproductive branch

61. 1 ha=

2.47 A

62. Area of hectare

10,000 m2

63. Vertical Fruiting Interval is...

3 days

64. Horizontal Fruiting Interval is...

6 days

65. Square Maturity Interval

40 days after emergence

66. Boll Maturity Interval....

GDD, 60 days

67. Where should you harvest?

between 9th and 14th msn

68. When should you stop irrigation and insecticide treatment?

At 5 NAWB

69. When should you put on defoliant?

At 4 NACB

70. How much spannable fiber is produce?

12 to 20 K per seed or

20% of epidermal cells

71. Fiber initials start where to where in what amount of time?

Top to bottom in 3 days

72. fibers generally grow in length for ___ to ____days followed by growth in secondary wall for about ___ days.

20- 28, 25

73. When mature fibers dry they..

Twist and flatten slightly

74. If it dies before secondary wall is formed it turns into...

A flat ribbon

75. What year were official standards for cotton breeding established?

1909, by USDA/ AMS

76. What is color grade determined by?

High Volume Instrument (HVI) color chart

77. Quality Indicators

Micronaires

Upper Half Mean Length

Length Uniformity

Breaking Strength

Maturity Ratio

Elongation (not used, no calibration standards

78. What year was seed worth more than lint?

1931

79. Products per 1 bale

Ladies Handkerchief 22,000

Men's Handkerchief 8,000

Ladies shirts 850

Mens dress shirts 800

Ladies knit/work dresses 350

Mens jeans 325

Sheets 200

80. Component kof mature cotton fiber dry %'s

Cellulose 94%

Protein 1.3%

Pectic Acid 1.2%

Ash 1.2%

Sugar .3%

Wax .6%

Other 1.4%

81. Diseases Affecting Cotton

Alternaria Leaf blight

Fungal boll rot

Bacterial Blight

Bronze wilt (caused by agrobacterium)

Root rot (controlled by TopGuard)

Sooty Mold (caused by honeydew from aphids)

82. Insects affecting cotton

Soybean hopper

Boll weevil

Spider mite

Looper