1.11 - Maintenance + repair

P1 - Technical principles

textile waste

• textile industry = high level of waste and pollution

• consumers = buy more low cost garments, throw them away and buy more to replace them

• ethical practices for sourcing and manufacture

• still global issue of disposal

reducing number of manufacturing processes

• careful planning/management of each stage and process

• saves time, resources and minimises waste/pollution

• e.g. processing raw materials for yarn, cutting/sewing, packaging and delivery

cutting and sewing processes to reduce resource use

• fabric choice = bias, one way design, nap - needs more fabric

• fewer seams = less seam allowances, less thread and fabric used e.g use more fold lines

• fewer components = e.g, less buttons - also saves thread

• CAM = more accurate cutting - reduces waste

packaging modifications to reduce resources

• need packaging so they remain in good condition

• reducing required packaging = less resources, saves weight, reduced delivery costs

• reduce unneccisary packaging

modern transport systems to reduce reserves

• can reduce need for packaging

• e.g. transporting garments on moveable rails for immediate display

• reduces need to iron garments for creases

eutrophication

excessive richness of nutrients in a lake or other body of water

• caused by phosphates found in laundry detergents as well as fertilisers used in plants

• can result in oxygen depletion of water

choice of materials

• depends on required product performance

• e.g. fabrics needing careful handling - chiffon, velvet

• e.g. fabrics that pill easily

• will degrade faster in products washed and worn frequently

choice of materials - application of finishes

• e.g. stain repellants, crease resistance

• can improve performance and lifespan

• can reduce washing and ironing needed

choice of materials - cleaning

• laundry detergents, fabric softeners, dry cleaning fluids

• can damage environment and cause eutrophication

• easy clean fabric reduce damage

• ironing and high temp washing - energy costs

• synthetic fabrics can lower energy demand

choice of materials - fabric mixtures

• can be difficult to recycle - fibres can be hard to separate

• environmentally friendly fibres can reduce resource consumption e.g. lyocell

• biodegradable fibres reduce the toxicity of landfill sites

sustainability

the reduction of all aspects of design and manufacturing activity that have a negative impact on the environment or the lives of humans

• the 6 Rs

the 6 Rs of sustainability

• reduce

• reuse

• recycle

• repair

• rethink

• refuse

reduce

• modify design to reduce amount of fabric/components needed

• results in saving materials and energy used in manufacture

• design products for longer life - so less products are required

recycling - benefits

• less use of natural resources like water

• less need for chemicals in manufacture

• less pollution cause by manufacturing

recycling

• resold in charity shops

• send to developing countries for reuse

• broken down and restructured e.g. to make insulation and paper

• use for different purposes e.g. wipe cloths

• make products from recycled, non textile material = make polyester from plastic

reuse

• upcycle fabrics to make new products

• garment collection boxes - can donate unwanted clothing

rethink

• rethink how products are made/used to improve sustainability

• e.g production and care of polyester can use less energy and resources than some other fibres = less impact on environment

• use processing techniques that use less energy, reduce distance travelled by raw materials

• this reduces energy consumption

repair

• design easily repaired products, encourage culture of repair

• minor repairs can extend garment life

• replace simple components e.g. buttons

• cover well worn ares with patches e.g. jacket elbows

• darn holes in knitted fabrics

• dry cleaners may provide services to replace broken zips/jacket or coat lining

refuse

• refuse to buy environmentally unsustainable products

• reduced demand - leads to better practices

• offers/marketing encourage buying more clothes than necessary

• consumers now more reluctant to buy garments made by exploited workers

care of products

• involves being able to clean, repair and store clothes without causing damage

• good care extends life

• care labels help by providing washing, drying, ironing instructions

• can provide relevant info like fabric composition

care symbols - washing symbol

• basin with water in it

care symbol - washing symbol with numbers

• number inside = max washing temp ‘C

care symbol - washing symbol with bars

• bars underneath = agitation required - 2 bars = less agitation

care symbol - washing symbol with hand

• hand = hand wash only

care symbol - washing symbol with X

• X = do not wash

care symbols - bleaching symbol

• triangle

care symbols - bleaching symbol - empty

• use any kind of bleach

care symbols - bleaching symbol - parallel diagonal lines

• use a non-chlorine bleach

care symbols - bleaching symbol with X

• do not bleach

care symbols - drying symbol

• square box

care symbols - drying symbol - curved line

• hang to dry

care symbols - drying symbol - horizontal line

• dry flat

care symbols - drying symbol - 3 vertical line

• drip dry

care symbols - tumble drying symbol

• square with a circle inside

care symbols - tumble drying symbol - dots

• 1 dot = low heat

• 2 dots = medium hea

• 3 dots = high heat

care symbols - tumble drying symbol - cross

• do not tumble dry

care symbols - ironing symbol

• an iron with dots

• 1 dot = col iron

• 2 dots = medium iron

• 3 dots = hot iron

care symbols - ironing symbol - cross over steam

• do not steam

care symbols - dry cleaning

• empty circle

care symbols - dry cleaning - X through

• do not dry clean

care symbols - dry cleaning - letters

• P or F

• indicates solvent to be used

care symbols - dry cleaning - bars

• indicate level of agitation

• 2 bars = very gentle

need to consider effect of care on product - heat

• on thermoplastic fibres - can set unwanted crease into produtc

• wash/iron at suitable low temps

need to consider effect of care on product - finishes

• specific garment construction, finishes or fabric structures

• may need specific care

• e.g. loose knitted fabric, flame resistant fabric, linings and shoulder pads

need to consider effect of care on product - detergents

• use correct type

• alkaline/enzyme based - can badly effect some fibres e.g. silk/wool

need to consider effect of care on product - storage

• moths attack protein fibres

• white wool and polyamide turn yellow in uv

• mildew affects damp cotton