What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
High frequency, steep/high waves, short wavelength, weak swash + strong backwash.
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Why do constructive waves cause deposition?
Strong swash carries more sediment up the beach than weak backwash removes.
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Why do destructive waves cause erosion?
Strong backwash removes more beach material than the weak swash deposits.
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What is weathering?
The breakdown of rock in situ without it being moved.
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What does in situ mean?
In its original place.
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What are the three main types of weathering?
Mechanical, chemical + biological.
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What is mechanical weathering?
The physical breakdown of rock without changing its chemical composition.
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How does freeze-thaw weathering work?
Water enters cracks - freezes + expands - widens cracks - repeated cycles eventually break rock apart.
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What is chemical weathering?
The breakdown of rock through chemical reactions.
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How can carbonation weather limestone?
Rainwater absorbs CO2 forming weak carbonic acid - this reacts with/dissolves limestone.
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What is biological weathering?
The breakdown of rock by living organisms.
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How can plant roots cause biological weathering?
Roots grow into cracks + widen them as they grow.
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What is mass movement?
The downhill movement of weathered material under the force of gravity.
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What is a rockfall?
Rock fragments break away + fall down a steep slope or cliff.
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What is a landslide?
Rock or soil rapidly moves downhill along a slope.
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What is rotational slumping?
Saturated material moves downhill along a curved slip plane.
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Why can heavy rainfall increase mass movement?
Water adds weight + reduces friction, making slopes less stable.
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What are the four main processes of coastal erosion?
Hydraulic action, abrasion, attrition + solution.
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What is hydraulic action?
Waves force water + air into cracks - pressure weakens the rock until pieces break off.
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What is abrasion?
Sediment carried by waves is thrown against the coast, wearing it away.
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What is attrition?
Rocks carried by waves collide with each other - becoming smaller, smoother + rounder.
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What is solution at the coast?
Soluble rock is dissolved by seawater.
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What is coastal transportation?
The movement of sediment along the coastline.
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What is longshore drift?
The movement of sediment along a coastline caused by waves approaching the beach at an angle.
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How does longshore drift work?
Swash carries sediment up the beach at the wave angle - backwash moves straight down under gravity - repeated movement transports sediment along the coast.
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What is deposition?
The dropping of material that was being transported.
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When does coastal deposition occur?
When waves lose energy + can no longer carry their sediment.
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What factors can affect coastal landscapes?
Rock type, geological structure + wave energy.
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What is differential erosion?
Softer rock is eroded faster than more resistant rock.
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How do headlands and bays form?
Alternating hard + soft rock are eroded at different rates - soft rock retreats to form bays while resistant rock remains as headlands.
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Why are headlands often heavily eroded?
Wave refraction concentrates wave energy onto them.
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Why are beaches often found in bays?
Wave energy is lower, encouraging deposition.
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How does a cliff and wave-cut platform form?
Waves erode the cliff base - a wave-cut notch forms - overhang collapses - cliff retreats - repeated retreat leaves a wave-cut platform.
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What is a wave-cut notch?
An indentation eroded into the base of a cliff by wave action.
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What is a wave-cut platform?
A gently sloping rocky surface left behind as a cliff retreats.
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How do caves, arches, stacks and stumps form?
Erosion enlarges a crack in a headland - cave - cave erodes through to form an arch - roof collapses leaving a stack - stack erodes/collapses leaving a stump.
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What is a beach?
An accumulation of sand or shingle deposited along the coastline.
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Where do beaches commonly form?
Where deposition exceeds erosion, often in sheltered bays.
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What is a spit?
A narrow ridge of sand or shingle attached to land at one end + extending into the sea.
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How does a spit form?
Longshore drift transports sediment - coastline changes direction or crosses an estuary - sediment continues into open water + is deposited.
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Why can the end of a spit become recurved?
Changes in wind/wave direction can curve the end towards the land.
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What may form behind a spit?
Sheltered water allows mudflats + salt marshes to develop.
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What is a bar?
A ridge of deposited sediment extending across a bay, joining two headlands.
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How does a bar form?
A spit continues growing across a bay until it connects with the opposite headland.
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What can form behind a coastal bar?
A lagoon.
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What are sand dunes?
Ridges or hills of wind-blown sand formed behind a beach.
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How do sand dunes begin to form?
Wind transports dry sand inland - obstacles trap it - vegetation colonises + stabilises the accumulating sand.
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What is coastal management?
Strategies used to reduce coastal erosion + flooding.
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What is hard engineering?
Building artificial structures to control natural coastal processes.
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What is soft engineering?
Working with natural processes to reduce erosion/flooding with less environmental disruption.
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How does a sea wall protect the coast?
A strong wall reflects/absorbs wave energy + prevents erosion/flooding behind it.
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What are advantages of sea walls?
Very effective + can protect valuable property/infrastructure for many years.
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What are disadvantages of sea walls?
Expensive, visually intrusive + reflected waves can increase erosion at the base.
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What is rock armour?
Large boulders placed at the coast to absorb wave energy.
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What are advantages of rock armour?
Effective, relatively quick to construct + absorbs wave energy.
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What are disadvantages of rock armour?
Can be expensive to transport, may look unnatural + can restrict access.
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What are gabions?
Wire cages filled with rocks placed along the coast.
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How do gabions protect the coast?
Rocks absorb wave energy + reduce erosion.
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What are advantages of gabions?
Relatively cheap + quick to install.
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What are disadvantages of gabions?
Wire cages can corrode/break + they may be unattractive.
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What are groynes?
Barriers built at right angles to the coast that trap sediment moved by longshore drift.
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How do groynes protect the coast?
They create a wider/higher beach which absorbs more wave energy.
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What are advantages of groynes?
They build beaches, reduce erosion + can increase recreational value.
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What are disadvantages of groynes?
They interrupt longshore drift, causing sediment starvation + increased erosion further down the coast.
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What is beach nourishment?
Adding sand or shingle to a beach to replace material lost by erosion.
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What is beach reprofiling?
Redistributing beach sediment to create a shape that absorbs wave energy more effectively.
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What are advantages of beach nourishment/reprofiling?
They look natural, maintain a beach + absorb wave energy.
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What are disadvantages of beach nourishment/reprofiling?
They require repeated maintenance + can become expensive over time.
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What is dune regeneration?
Restoring/stabilising sand dunes using vegetation, fencing or controlled access.
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How does dune regeneration protect the coast?
Dunes act as a natural barrier that absorbs wave energy + reduces flooding.
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What are disadvantages of dune regeneration?
It can restrict access + dunes may still be damaged by storms or people.
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What is managed retreat?
Allowing selected low-value coastal land to flood or erode naturally.
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What are advantages of managed retreat?
Relatively low cost + can create natural habitats such as salt marshes that absorb wave energy.
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What are disadvantages of managed retreat?
Land/property may be lost + compensation or relocation may be needed.
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Why must coastal management strategies be evaluated?
A strategy's economic, social + environmental costs must be compared with its benefits.
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What is a river's source?
The point where a river begins, usually in an upland area.
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What is a river's mouth?
The point where a river enters the sea, lake or another river.
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What is a tributary?
A smaller river or stream that flows into a larger river.
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What is a confluence?
The point where two rivers meet.
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What is a drainage basin?
The area of land drained by a river + its tributaries.
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What is a watershed?
The boundary separating one drainage basin from another.
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What is a river's long profile?
The change in the gradient of a river from its source to its mouth.
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How does a river's long profile change downstream?
It becomes progressively less steep towards the mouth.
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What is a river's cross profile?
The shape of the river channel + valley when viewed across it.
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How does a river valley change downstream?
It generally becomes wider, flatter + less steep-sided.