Textiles Exam 2 Review

What inspired the creation of manufactured fibers?

They wanted cheaper fiber, that could be made year round (especially silk)

Classification Chart

Raw Materials

• Raw Materials for Regenerated Fibers- manuf. from materials found in nature

  • Cellulosic Fibers- Eucalyptus + other trees, bamboo

  • Protein- soybean, milk

  • Derivative Cellulose- fibers remain chemically altered

• Synthetic Fibers- from non-fibrous materials

  • pellets synthesized from petroleum-based chemicals

  • corn used for synthesize bio-based polymer

  • soda bottle chips for recycled fibers

  • used garments for recycled fibers

  • Rubber -natural and synthetic rubber

  • Mineral fiber - inorganic from metal and glass

Property of thermoplastic

manuf. fibers melt when heated

o Crimping and heat setting for staple fiber production

o Texturing filament yarns

o Thermally bonding nonwoven fabrics

o Heat setting fibers and fabrics

o Applying thermal finishes (e.g., permanent pleats)

o Sealing raw edges

o Threadless stitching

EXAMPLES - Acetate, triacetate, nylon, polyester, olefin and acrylic are thermoplastic

fibers.

Types of Spinning

convert a solid polymer into a viscous liquid, extrude it to form filaments, and then return the material to solid form, method used depends on the polymer properties of the fiber

• melt spinning

• dry spinning

• wet spinning

• gel spinning (new)

Melt Spinning

• Used for nylon, olefin, polyester, plastic fibers, and other thermoplastics

• simplest, least expensive

1.melting the polymer chips/pellets

2. filtering the fluid

3. extruding the fluid through the spinneret

4. solidifying the fiber by cooling

5. stretching or drawing the partially cooled

fiber

Dry Spinning

used for acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, spandex and other materials that can easily be dissolved in a solvent and then recovered by removing the solvent without changing the polymer properties

1. dissolving the fiber-forming substance in a solvent

2. filtering the fluid

3. extruding the fluid through the spinneret

4. solidifying the fiber by evaporating the solvent

using warm air (solvent is recovered and reused)

5. stretching or drawing the partially solidified fiber

Wet Spinning

used for rayon, spandex, some acrylics and other materials that require a complex process because they cannot easily be dissolved in a solvent or melted.

 1. reacting the raw material

2. filtering the soluble derivative

3. extruding the soluble derivative

4. solidifying the fiber in a chemical bath

5. stretching or drawing the partially maisolidified fiber

Chemical Modification

manipulation of molecule

Drawing

increases orientation, crystallinity

Heat-setting

heated under tension to prevent relaxation shrinkage

Microfiber-properties

• less than 1 denier in size (smaller than a single filament of silk)

• soft, flexible

• more expensive than regular

Bicomponent (+ uses)

a manufactured fiber made from two different polymer components, which may be composed of different polymer types or variants of the same polymer

• Sheath-core used for applications where a less expensive polymer is used as the core (reduces cost)

• Side-by-side bicomponent fibers with two types of acrylic used to produce crimped fibers (the one with a lower melting point shrinks—> crimp

• Matrix produces microfibers

Additives

• Microcapsules- embedded into fiber matrix; produce phase change materials (PCM) regulate body temp

• Delusterants- dull manufactured fibers (Titanium dioxide)

• Flame Resistant- altering the fiber composition of manufactured fibers

• High Tenacity-increasing the polymer chain ​

  length and/or stretching the fibers after extrusion to increase fiber ​

  orientation

• Molecular Structure- produces low-pilling fibers

• Pigment- added to produce solution dyed fibers

• Reduction of polymer chain length-

• Cross-Sections

  • Round- easiest/ most common

  • Triangular- enhance luster

  • Trilobal- hide dirt (carpets)

  • Hollow- reduce bulk

Rayon, Modal, and Lyocell

• Properties:

• Performance Highlights:

• Physical Structure:

• Care:

• End Uses:

Acetate and Triacetate

• Properties:

• Performance Highlights:

• Physical Structure:

• Care:

• End Uses:

Regenerated Proteins

Azlon

Synthetic Fibers

• Raw materials include petroleum based chemicals

• Control over all features of the fibers

• Thermoplastic: fabrics shrink and melt ​

• Resistant to most chemicals ​

• Resistant to insects, fungi and rot ​

• Oleophilic ​

• Low moisture absorbency: dry fast, hydrophobic, ​

  difficult to dye​

• Good dimensional stability​

Nylon

Common Properties:

Performance Highlights:

Physical Structure:

Care:

End Uses:

Polyester

Common Properties:

Performance Highlights:

Physical Structure:

Care:

End Uses:

Olefin

Common Properties:

Performance Highlights:

Physical Structure:

Care:

End Uses:

Acrylic

Common Properties:

Performance Highlights:

Physical Structure:

Care:

End Use:

What’s Recyclable?

Polyester

• Physical Recycling- PET bottles chop, melt, turn to fiber (color cant be change | more common and less expensive

• Chemical Recycling- chemically depolymerized | more expensive, used to produce apparel | more expensive, changed back to OG

What is the Workhorse Fiber?

Polyester

Elastomeric Fibers

the ability to stretch 400% or more and return back to their original size

• can only be used in filament form (short cant be spun into yarn)

• excellent elongation/extremely high elastic recovery

Types of Elastomeric Fibers

• Rubber- natural or synthetic

• Spandex- most commonly elastomer

• Lastol

• Elastoester

Rubber

• Natural- Least Expensive, deteriorates easily

• Synthetic- developed to overcome the limitations of natural rubber, damaged by dry cleaning solvents, chlorine bleach, sunlight, perspiration, oil, ageing

Spandex

• segments of polyurethane and a comonomer

• susceptible to heat

• susceptible to chlorine and other chemicals

• weak, low abrasion resistance

Lastol

• sub-class of olefin

• Good resistance to heat, chemicals, and chlorine bleach

• easier to dye than spandex

Elastoester

• Good for jeans

• Good resistance to wet heat and bleach

• Polyester/polyether segmented copolymer

• Can stretch up to 600%

Elasterrell-p

• good for a hint of stretch

• stretches 100% not 400

• sub-class of polyester

Specialty Fibers

• Comfort stretch- Created by elastometric fibers combined with other fibers

  • 10%-15% stretch used by garments requiring moderate amount elasticity

  • combining may break from abrasion (protruding fibers from the surface)

• Power stretch- fabric stretch normally in the range of 30% - 50% with good recovery

  • For figure controlling purposes (ex. spanx)

  • adding more spandex will inc. power stretch

  • Bare elastomeric yarns are weaker and less expensive

  • Cover/ wrapped elastomeric yarns are stronger

High performance/ Technical Fibers

• Have a special property which makes them superior for special end use​

• Too expensive for normal apparel

• Ex. Glass, aramids, metals, modacrylic and PLA

Glass

• Silicon dioxide from sand, silica and limestone

• Melt spun

• Incombustible, nonabsorbent, resistant to sunlight

• Noise abatement, temp control and insulation

• Draperies, home insulation

• Severe skin irritation from broken fibers limits use

Aramids

• Para-aramid

• Very strong fibers, cut resistant and impact resistant

• Very low flexibility

• Bullet proof vest

Metallic

• Fine gold and silver fibers

• most are plastic-coated (polyester & nylon) strands by slitting a laminated

• Core yarn with a metal strip, coating the surface of the yarn

• Used for decoration

• Used for technical textile applications

• Grounding: Properties include conductance of static charge (attracts dust)

Modacrylic

• Acrylonitrile and a copolymer are used to manufacture modacrylic fiber

• Self-extinguishing and inherently flame resistant modacrylic fibers

PLA (Polylactic Acid) Fibers

• Composed of at least 85% by weight of lactic acid ester derived from naturally occurring sugars (in corn/sugarcane- renewable resources)

• Biodegradable

• Good flame resistance properties

More Technical fibers

Know your Swatch Book

Spun

• Definition: produced by twisting together staple (short) fibers

• Effect on Fabrics: finer, smoother, better quality yarns

• Look/ Feel/ Identification: Short fibers

• For spun yarns “size” is used instead of “number”

Filament

• Definition: yarns are produced from filament (continuous) fibers

• Look/ Feel/ Identification: Cheaper than spun yarn, smooth and lustrous

Yarn Classification

Single (simple)

have uniform size and a regular surface. They include single, ply, cord and rope yarns

• common for manuf. cotton, denim, cheesecloth, gingham, etc.

• most have regular twist and z- twist

Ply vs. Cord vs. Rope

• Ply- twisting two or more single yarns. Each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply; two single yarns twisted together would form a 2-ply yarn.

• Cord- twisting two or more plied yarns

• Rope- twisting used two or more cord yarns

Monofilament

single filament; typically thicker than multifilament (used for sutures, fishing lines, wreaths, horticultural applications, artificial turfs)

Multifilament

yarns from many filament fibers

• number depends on

  • # of fibers reeled together from silk cocoons

  • number of holes in the spinneret

  • often used for satin

Textured Yarns

• increases bulk (cover + volume) and/ or stretch (yarn’s extensibility and excellent recovery)

• also effects abrasion, resistance, warmth, insulation, and moisture absorp.

Tape

• filaments produced by slitting or splitting processes (considered monofilaments)

• uniform width are produced by splitting sheets or polymer films

Novelty/Fancy

• Definition: typically made of two or more strands, provide decorative surface effects.

• Composed of: Base/core (structure), Effect (decorative), Binder (ties effect to base)

• Common Ones: Slub, Flock/seed/flake, Nub or knot, Boucle/loop/ratine, spiral/corkscrew, chenille

• Purpose:

Why are novelty/fancy usually used only in filing direction of fabric?

Slub

Flock/seed/flake

Nub or Knot

Boucle/loop/ratine

Spiral/corkscrew

Chenille

Composite

• Covered- a type of composite yarn made by wrapping a spun or filament yarn around a core of bundled fibers or another yarn

• Core-spun- made by twisting fibers around a filament or a previously spun yarn, thus concealing the core

  • Prevents ‘grin’ - a visible gap or separation that appears between two sewn fabric pieces when pulled at right angles to the seam, often revealing the stitching thread within the gap

Carded and Woolen vs. Combed and Worsted

Yarn Spinning Process

• The cotton system is the most common system used to prepare and twist staple fibers into spun yarns.

• All spinning systems clean, make fibers parallel, draw and twist

Ring-spun

Open-end Spinning

Yarn Twist

required to hold staple fibers together in spun yarns.​

*not required for filaments

• affects appearance, fineness, strength, absorption

• More twist = more fineness, more strength, more stretch, less absorption

Type of Twist

• No/ Minimal Twist- applicable only for filament yarns, minimal to manuf. fabric with smooth hand (slippery)

• Low Twist- sweaters, pile yarns, towels and napped fabrics

• Nap Twist- hairs brushed to stick out (fleece, flannel)

• Soft Twist- low twist yarns for sweaters, cardigans, and scarves (for soft/ bulky yarns) they pill

• Average Twist- manuf. / woven fabrics

• High Twist- spun and filament (crepe and voile) best strength

  • Crepe Twist- georgette, hard to manage (tendency to kink)

• Hard Twist yarns- between regular and crepe (voile fabrics)

Yarn Number

relative measure of fineness of yarns

• Direct yarn number (equal to linear density), mass/length, filaments, as # inc, size inc.

• Indirect (reciprocal of linear density), length/mass, as # inc. size dec., staple

Direct Yarn

• Denier- equals # in grams of 9,000 meters, the lower the number the finer it is

• Tex- equals the mass in grams of 1,000 meters

• 1 denier = 9 tex

Indirect Yarn

• Cotton Count, Worsted Count, Linen Count- based on hanks in one pound

• Yarn number for ply:

• the number of strand (size) / number of plies example (20/2)

Yarn Hairiness

Fiber end protruding

• #, length and twist have affect

• Affects performance, hand and pilling

Intimate blend

a blend with an even distribution of fibers (during manufacturing)

Mixture (fabric)

two or more yarns in fabric (one is warp and other is weft)

Direction of Yarn

Important when you start plying

• S

• Z - most single spun use

Combination (yarn)

two or more plies made of different generic fibers combined in a yarn

Yarn Characteristics

Performance of Yarns and Fabrics