Notes Romantic, Crinoline, and Bustle Era

Romantic Period

- Appealed to the emotions and emphasized creative arts

- Art was unconventional and appealed to senses

Innovative names for colors

Dust of ruins - clay (mustard)

Egyptian earth

Lovesick toad - mint green

Startled toad - dark green

Frightened mouse - pale gray

Spider meditating on a crime - charcoal gray

Background in England during Romantic period

Queen Victoria was on the throne

Rimmel London - Cosmetics, had a hard time getting off the ground because people started following Queen Victoria's attitude on makeup

- Mascara was the first product Rimmel tried, first mix was soot and liquid mercury, then used petroleum jelly

- Mascara derived from Spanish meaning to mask or stain

Pushing products toward beauty standards (staying thin (sanitized tape worms), complexion wafers (pale)

Background in United States during Romantic period

Westward expansion

- Clothing was simple and functional rather than decorative

- Fabrics were practical such as cotton or wool

Slaves escaping were given new clothes so that they could not be identified as slaves

Fashion & Textiles in Romantic period (Inventions)

Lace making machine, no longer made by hand - people could afford lace now

Elias Howe patented the first sewing machine in 1846 - most likely man in Germany invented a year before, but didn't patent it

Raincoats called Makintoshes, Patented by Charles Macintosh

Cotton and Rubber

Art of photography is a source of information about the clothing worn

Had to sit for long periods of time so wouldn't smile

What was the first department store in Paris?

Belle Jardiniere

- burned down in 1936

Clothing - Women in Romantic Period

The silhouette for women was the hourglass

More restrictive than in the Empire period

Layers

Long lace pantaloons

- Drawers

- Made of white cotton or linen

Corsets

- Very small waist was values and corsets were used to make the waistline smaller

Flannel petticoats

Padded Bustle

Underskirt for stiffening

3 cotton underskirts

Plaid silk taffeta

Dresses - Early Romantic

Long wide skirts

Large sleeves

Empire waistline coming down

Pelisse (coat dress)

Usually, quilted for warmth

Dress late Romantic

Larger skirts

Larger sleeves

Off-the-shoulder necklines

Evening dresses

More ornate than daytime dresses

Luxurious fabrics

Low off the shoulder necklines

Short sleeves

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert's Wedding

Credited with having white wedding gown

Sketched this design, trimmed with sprays of roses

Sketch was given to her Mistress of the Robes, The Duchess of Sutherland

Mourning clothes

Black

- when Prince Albert died, Queen Victoria wore black for the rest of her life

Sleeves - Romantic period

Fullness shifted from the shoulder down the arm

Sleeves were the most distinctive part of women's garments in the Romantic period

Marie Sleeve

long and tied off in sections

Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve

puffy from the shoulder to the elbow, tapered off at the wrist

Gigot Sleeve

layered

Bishop Sleeve

full sleeve

Imbecile or Idiot Sleeves

really puffy, got its name from strait jackets, tight on one side - made it hard for women to move arms

Victoria Sleeve

named for Queen Victoria, fitted from the shoulder to mid upper arm then bloused out then was tight from forearm to the wrist

New Sleeve

1840s, fitted to the elbow, wide opening from elbow to the wrist

Undersleeves

made of white lace or embroidered linen, sewn into the sleeve separately and could be removed for laundering

Pelerine

wide cape like collar, seam connecting the collar to the seam in the sleeve

Canezou

small sleeveless spencer worn over a bodice

Romantic period - Modern

Inspiration for wedding gown of Princess Diana of Britain

Hats - Romantic Period

Bonnet

Bavolet (also meant to cover a women's neck)

Hair - Romantic Period

Parted in the center

Curls around the face

Braids or ringlets

Pulled at the back

Hairstyle a la Chinoise

Chinese style

Curls around the face at the sides

Pulled up in the back and looped on the top of the head

Jewelry - Romantic period

Brooches

Drop earrings

Long chains (longer your chain the higher status you had)

Chatelaine

ornamented belt worn around the wait, could have many things attached that a women might carry

Cartoonist liked to ridicule this latest fashion for women

Clothing - men Romantic period

Very few changes

Long pants were universally worn except for sports when knee breeches were worn

Shirts and collars:

- Shirts were cut with deep collars that folded over a cravat or neck cloth in various colors

Waistcoats:

- Colorful, sometimes plaid

- Short like a modern vest

Cutaway coats

Long pants

- For more formal wear

- Strap around the foot to hold them down

Banyans

Newmarket coats

single breasted, buttons to the front, drapes away on either side of the bodice

Men Hats - Romantic Period

Top hats, derby hat, and bowler hats were worn

Shoes Men - Romantic Period

Square heels

Laces up the front

Spats

Boots for riding

Clothing - Girls Romantic period

Children's clothing was like adults

Girl's dresses were shorter

Both boys and girls wore ankle high boots

Crinoline Era, 1850 - 1870

Queen Victoria reigned from 1837 until 1901

"Victorian" era signified traditional roles for women (wife, mother, homemaker)

Was an era of "prim and proper" for women and men alike

Considered the fashion center during Crinoline period

France

Charles Worth

(an Englishman) created the House of Worth

He was the first couturier

House of Worth

Clients came to him

Known for showing designs on live models

Put a label in his designs

Used lots of draping, details like fringe/lace, flounces/tiers

Marie Worth considered first fashion model

Princess Eugenie's Tiara

Pearl

Background - United States Crinoline

NY Times first published on September 18, 1851

Military garments led to mass production

1st Transcontinental Railroad - 1869, traveling clothes

Sports: participation of women in sports, women participated in gymnastics and adopted "bloomers"

Mauve

Invention of coal tar dye made it possible to achieve a wide variety of bright colors in garments

- William Henry Perkin

Amelia Bloomer

Lived in Upstate New York

Cousin who traveled to Turkey returned to NY wearing blooming Turkish trousers with a knee length tunic over it

Amelia adopted this look, and a lot of women in the women's suffrage movement

Rejected by a lot of people and groups, never adopted in southern US and men didn't like it

Women's Dress Crinoline

Biggest change in women's dress was the reinvention of hoops or crinolines under very large skirts

This eliminated the need for many petticoats as they wore in the Romantic Period

Staircases were constructed very wide to accommodate the very wide skirts

Doorways were also made larger to accommodate the hoop skirts of the women

French doors

Clothing - Women Crinoline

Corsets - worn over the undergarments

Hoops or crinolines - a series of either whalebone or steel (after 1857) hoops were sewn onto tapes or into a fabric skirt (Cage crinolines)

The shape of the crinoline changed as the silhouette changed with fullness moving toward the back

1870 - move to bustle, detailing moved to the back of women's gowns, petticoats got wider

The shoulder seams were dropped lower down the sleeve

Plaids and stripes of silk taffeta were popular

Dresses could use as much as 20 yards of fabric

Barege

Made of silk and wool, sheer light-weight crisp fabric used for women's petticoats, skirts, or dresses

Manufactured in Barege Valley, France

Evening dresses Crinlone

were made of elegant fabrics, had more decoration such as ruffles and bows, shorter sleeves (off the shoulder)

Princess Dress

Long, gored sections from the shoulder to the hem with no waistline seam.

Pagoda Sleeve

narrow at shoulder and expanding to a wide opening at the wrist

Garibaldi blouses

Separate blouses worn with skirts

Full sleeves

Red was a favorite color

Named for an Italian folk hero and favorite blouse of Empress Eugenie

Military men wore red blouses

Zouave Jacket

A short, collarless jacket trimmed with braid and often worn with a garibaldi blouse

Outdoor garments Crinoline

Coats with sleeves, unfitted, various lengths

Loose capes, cloaks, and shawls

Hair Crinoline

Hair was often in a chignon at the nape of the neck and covered in a snood (netting)

Hats Crinoline

Many varieties of hats and bonnets

Pork Pie hat: small straw bonnet turned up

Poke Bonnet

Riding hats: similar to top hats

Accessories Crinoline

Gloves: lace or crocheted; long or short

Parasols: used to keep sun off, same fabric as dress or complimentary fabric

Fans: to cool themselves or use as decoration

Small lace collars: worn on the dresses and could be removed

Muffs: worn to keep the hands warm, sometimes made of fur

Shoes Crinoline

Boots with heels that laced or buttoned in the front

Spats over the top

Clothing for children in Crinoline

Dressed as miniature adults

Girls' ankle length dresses

Plaid very common

Clothing - Men Crinoline

Mass production of military uniforms

Bow ties

Men wore a "suit of clothes" which consisted of trousers, a vest, and a jacket sometimes all in the same fabric

Top hats/bowler or derby hats

Windsor tie - Windsor knot named for the duke of Windsor

Dundreary whiskers

porkchop sideburns, may or may not be worn with mustache of goatee

Handlebar mustache

curled up on each side

The Bustle Period

England

Queen Victoria still reigned

Still an era of decency and high moral standards

France

Much more free and liberal in England

Gave the name to the "Gay 90's" as unrestrained, happy.

United States

1873: Chester Greenwood invented earmuffs

First Thanksgiving Football game:

- Yale vs. Princeton

Skullcaps

Wool sweaters

Flannel Trousers

Stockings

There were more women in the workforce, and they wore plainer, more practical clothing

Both men and women were participating in more sports

1873 Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis

Levi Strauss received patent, sell to miners, got with tailor named Jacob Davis and they patented copper rivets at stress points, patent is long expired

Originally called waist overalls

Theophilus Van Kannel

Invented and patented revolving doors in 1888, hated opening doors for women (his wife)

Manufactured and installed first in Philadelphia

P&G

Ivory - could be used for clothes and skin, formula hasn't changed

When women started riding bicycles, men "freaked out"

Bicycle face, can affect a women's face, gave them a certain independence (Could go places)

Fashion and Textiles Bustle Period

There were department stores selling ready-to-wear garments

Catalogs

Among the first Department stores in the United States

Marshall Fields - Chicago

R.H. Macy & Co. - New York

John Wannamaker & Sons - Philadelphia

1863, Ebenezer Butterick

a tailor, patented tissue paper patterns in specific sizes, 25-75 cents

The Delineator - women's fashion magazine that included a free pattern with subscription

Mary Cobb opened America's first nail salon called Mrs. Cobb's Manicure Parler

Several branches

Patented Emery board in 1884

Rober Chesebrough was a chemist in oil industry

First factory in 1870

Patent in 1872

Vaseline: German - Wasser (Water) + Greek - elaion (Olive Oil)

Lipstick: 1883 World's Fair in Paris

Originally made from berries

Deer tallow, castor oil, beeswax

"Saucisse"

Expensive

Undergarments women Bustle period

Combinations were worn instead of separate pantaloons and camisoles

Corsets were shaped to achieve a full bust line, narrow waist and smooth round hip curve

The Changing Silhouette

1890s doctors injected paraffin wax to enlarge women's breasts, resulting in infections and lumps, so within 20 years the practice was discredited and discontinued

1895, Vencenz Czerny, German surgeon reconstructs a woman's breast by transplanting fat from her hips

"Dress Improver"

also known as bustle

By 1868 the bustle replaced the crinoline

It sometimes extended out 16" in the back

Flat in the front

Clothing - Women Bustle period

Tea Gowns

Women wore dark colors for daywear

Pastel colors were worn in the evening

Stripes were still popular especially for silk dresses

Tea Gowns

Were worn without corsets

Looser fit, softer lines

Worn at home and with ladies

Mourning Dresses

During this period it was proper to wear black for mourning

After Prince Albert died, Queen Victoria wore balck for the rest of her life

Dresses (1870-78)

Full skirts with fitted bodices

Lowered waistline

Fabric pulled up and draped over the back in various ways

Middle (1878-1883)

A very narrow, princess line sheath dress (fish tail)

Tight-fitting to a few inches above the ankles

Women used an ankle chain to take very small steps

Many dresses had trains

The sheath dress was more popular with a V-shaped bodice

The fullness has shifted down the skirt

Late (1884-1890)

Back fullness returned

Rigid, shelf-like bustles extend at the upper part of the back of the dress

Trains disappear on dresses

Electric Lady Liberty

Charles Worth was commissioned in 1883 by Alice Vanderbilt to design a dress that she could wear to her family's ball

Dress was gold, bright velvet and she held up a battery-operated lit torch

Debuted this at family's ball after Thomas Edison debuted the electric lightbulb

Alice Vanderbilt wanted people to realize her family was the future of New York society

Museum of the city of New York

1890s

Bustles were gone

Skirts were long, full, and bell-shaped (morning glory skirt)

Smooth at the waist

High necklines

Leg-of-mutton sleeves

1899

Very narrow again

Smaller sleeves

Blouses and Skirts

Separate skirts and blouses were worn by the 1890s

Often worn for sports

Tailor-mades

There were matching jackets and skirts

Worn with a blouse

Start to women wearing suits similar to men

Coats - Bustle

Many varieties of long coats were worn

Some had fur trim

Capes - Bustle

Capes of various styles were worn

Some matched the fabric of the dress and others were different fabric

Shoes - Bustle

Heels - bows or buckles

Laced-up or buttoned boots

Square toes changed to round toes later in the century

Made of leather or cloth

First use of patent leather

Hats - Bustle

Small in size

No or little brim

Trimmed with lace, feathersm and ribbons

Top hat were worn for horseback riding

The Skimmer hat

The Skimmer hat

Made of straw with ribbon trim

Weekend hat

Hair - Bustle

Pulled off the neck

May have little curls around the face

Gibson Girl hairdo was popular in the late 1890s

Pulled up into a loose chignon on top of the head

"Ferrari" of Hairbrushes

Mason Pearson

Made by hand

Expensive

Accessories - Bustle

Parasols

Gloves - long and buttoned

Fans

Small bouquets of flowers (violets)

Clothing - Men Bustle

Shirts - white linen or cotton with high stiff collars

May have pintucks down the front

Waistcoats:

Short and made of elegant fabric

Or, made of the same fabric as the trousers and the jacket

"Suit of clothes"

Trousers:

Straight and narrow

Sometimes made of checks or plaids

Suspenders worn to hold them up

Later included creases down the front

Men Jacket - Bustle

Sack coat - had no waistline seam

Looser than the frock coats worn earlier

Lounge Jacket/Smoking Jacket

King Edward VII - popularized as daywear

October 10, 1886, Tuxedo Park, NY - debuted as formal wear

Overcoats Men - Bustle

Chesterfield - an overcoat with a velvet collar

Inverness cape - a cape with two layers (Sherlock Holmes)

Hats - Bustle

The Deerstalker Hat (Sherlock Holmes made it famous)

Fedora - a low, soft hat with a dent in the top

Top Hat

Clothing younger men - Bustle

Older male children wore short pants (or knickers)

School-aged boys wore knee-length knickers and long socks

Older boys changed to long pants, and this was a sign of maturity