Architectures 360

What are the two Lamellar Crystal Architectures?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

What are the 2 Alpha-Gel Architectures?

NET-APS

NET-SMT

What is the phospholipid bilayer architecture?

Lecinol S-10

What is the W/Si Architectures?

NET WS-CF

What are the 2 Pickering architectures?

NET-WO NS

NET-OWP

What is the Polymeric Architectures?

NET-WRS

What is the D-Phase Architectures?

BARSOLVE NS-100

What type of emulsion are our lamellar crystal architecture?

O/W

What benefits do lamellar crystal networks have compared to typical o/w emulsions?

Increased moisturization within the stratum corneum

What are the benefits/properties of lamellar crystal architecture?

Fluid

Tend to have better application performance than typical emulsions regarding pH and heat stability

Controlled release of actives

Controlled release of moisturization

Boost SPF content

Repair & condition hair

Compatibility with many different types of oils

Low to high pH formulas

Heat stability

What is the suggested use level of NET-LCS?

3 - 7 %

What is the solubility of NET-LCS?

Oil dispersible

How do you increase the viscosity when using NET-LCS?

Increase oil phase (up to 40%)

Add water dispersible polymeric thickeners

Increase fatty alcohols (max 1.5%)

What are stability recommendations for NET-LCS?

Polymeric thickener in the water phase to enhance suspension of the lamellar crystals and maintain viscosity

How does NET-LCS do with electrolytes?

Compatible with salt forming acids and straight salts

What is the difference between NET-LCS and NET-LCS PF?

The PF stands for PEG free (polyethylene glycol)

NET-LCS PF is less salt tolerant, so need to be careful when working with different bioactives

What is the use level for NET-LCS PF?

1 - 7 %

What is the solubility of NET-LCS PF?

It is oil dispersible

How well does NET-LCS PF do with electrolytes?

salts are not recommended - has been able to work with 0.5% of NaCl

How do you process NET-LCS/NET-LCS PF?

Premix in oil phase first

Do not add silicones until NET-LCS is dissolved in other oils

Add heated oil phase to heated water phase

How are alpha gels different from traditional emulsion systems?

The rigid tail of the lipid is different than the free flowing lipid tail you see in lamellar crystals for example

This helps control water loss from the stratum corneum

What are the two stable phases that alpha gel emulsions can be found in and what are those emulsifiers?

Alpha Gels - NET-APS, NET-SMT

Lamellar Crystals - NET-LCS, NET-LCS PF

What are the advantages of Alpha Gels?

Rigid structures form long lasting barrier on the skin - locks in moisture and protects from pollutants

Improved water loss from WITHIN the stratum corneum

Provides a smooth, matte texture

Improved appearance of fine lines/wrinkles

Easy emulsification of many different types of oils

Long lasting hydration

Long term barrier improvement

How do you increase the viscosity of NET-APS emulsions?

Increase oil/fatty alcohols (anionic so need fatty alcohols to create the sheets)

• no fatty alcohols limitation

• Can hold 10% more oil phase, so 50%, compared to lamellar crystals

Add polymeric thickeners to water phase

What are product efficacies of NET-APS?

texture improvement

TEWL suppression

Improved moisture content

Fine lines reduction

Pollution protection

Improved condition of lips

How does NET-APS do with electrolytes?

1% or less if NaCl

0.25% or less kf Magnesium Sulfate

What are co emulsifiers of NET-APS?

Fatty alcohols

How do you adjust pH of NET-APS?

NET-APS is more basic so you need to neutralize

Avoid KOH & NAOH

Use arginine, amines, or AMP

1 part NET-APS to 0.5 parts of Arginine

1 part NET-APS to 0.46 parts TEA

1 part NET-APS to 0.29 parts AMP

How does NET-SMT build a gel?

Using BA-65 as the fatty alcohols, NET-SMT comes in as a hydrophilic surfactant to penetrate the fatty alcohol and trap water in between the lipid heads where the lipid tails are. This is also where oil micelles are trapped in the layers

What oils is NET-SMT compatible with?

All oils

What salts is NET-SMT compatible with?

All salt forming acids and straight salts

How do you increase the viscosity of emulsions using NET-SMT?

Increasing the fatty alcohols

Add polymeric thickeners to the water phase

What is the traditional micelle arrangement technology called?

Phospholipid architecture

What is the HLB of Lecinol S-10?

Middle hlb

What types of architectures can you combine Lecinol S-10 with?

All - very versatile

How is the structure of Lecinol S-10?

Not very tight - over time viscosity will become unstable

Need to add at high concentrations/add other hydrophilic ingredients (like Barsolve NS-100)

What are all of the things that Lecinol S-10 can do?

Primary emulsifier (use level 1 - 2%)

Rescue emulsifier (0.20 - 1%)

Create Liposomes (5 - 7% & need special equipment)

Where is the Lecithin in Lecinol S-10 derived from?

Soy

Why is Lecinol S-10 a good option if Lecithin typically is unstable with heat and oxidization?

Ours has a special hydrogenation process to stabilize it and has a unique concentration to out perform others

How do you increase the viscosity of formulas with Lecinol S-10?

Increase polymeric thickeners, gums, waxes, fatty alcohols

What is the best way to stabilize Lecinol S-10 emulsions?

A polymeric thickener

What components make up NET WS-CF?

Hydophobically modified hectorite

A surfactant (surfactant head absorbs onto hectorite creating a complex)

Dimethicone

How does the viscosity increase, chemically, with NET WS-CF?

The surfactant tails repel each other causing the space between the hectorite plates to increase and increase the viscosity

What is the maximum amount of water NET WS-CF can hold in the internal phase?

80!!!

What should you use NET WS-CF for?

Microemulsion properties

Water break

High water internal phase

Why do you need to add salts with NET WS-CF?

Increase freeze/thaw stability

What’s so,etching to keep in mind during homogenization of NET WS-CF?

You can cold process but you need energy from a homogenizer

Need to add the water phase SLOWLY

What are the formulation specifications of the oil phase of NET WS-CF?

Need to make sure you have enough low MW silicones (hydrocarbons) - at least 70% of your oil phase needs to be this

The other 30% of your oil phase can be other esters or oils

What is NET WO-NS?

W/O (not silicone) Pickering emulsifier

Hectorite is the Pickering particle

PEG free

Complex with a lower HLB

How do Pickering emulsions enhance active delivery?

Forming strong interfacial films around droplets

How does NET WO-NS strengthen w/o emulsions?

By strengthening the interfacial film around a water droplet to inhibit coalescence

Allows for low viscosity

How does NET-OWP stabilize o/w emulsions?

Through submicron particles, preventing coalescence by creating a physical barrier

How do you increase the viscosity of NET-WO NS emulsions?

Increase solid content

No matter how much water you add it won’t increase viscosity

How to help increase stability of NET-WO NS?

add salt at 1-2% for f/t

Add glycols up to 10% for f/t

What should you use to support NET-OWP?

A non-ionic (water phase) or fatty alcohol (oil phase) thickener to help suspend the Pickering particles for long term stability

What should you take into account with thickeners with NET-OWP?

Ionic thickeners should be used at low levels as they can cause a considerable increase in viscosity

What should you take into consideration with your oil phase with NET-OWP?

It is recommended that your oil phase is a blend of hydrocarbons with esters

What is the electrolyte compatibility with NET-OWP?

1% NaCl

1% MgSO4

What is the Pickering particle in NET-OWP?

Distarch Phosphate

Is the HLB high or low of NET-OWP?

Higher

What does Thixotropic mean?

Shear thinning - property of some fluids to become more fluid and less viscous when agitated or sheared (or applied to skin) but then thicken when left at rest

Ex. Hair gels, toothpaste, nail polish, etc.

As the pH increases, what happens to NET-WRS emulsions?

The polymer swells (via Michelle interaction with the hydrophobic polymer chain that pulls the polymer chains away from each other) and viscosity increases

What is the maximum amount of silicones with NET-WRS?

20%

What is the solubility of NET-WRS?

Water dispersible

Can you heat NET-WRS?

If it is heated above 40C then it may affect translucency

Above 65C may increase particle size and reduce stability of the emulsion

Can you use electrolytes with NET-WRS?

If you use them, you should use a pH adjuster to prevent loss in viscosity

What are recommended pH adjusters for NET-WRS?

KOH, NaOH, TEA, and Arginine

What are the processing guidelines for NET-WRS?

Pre-disperse NET-WRS in a polyol (BarDiol IPD)

Add to the water phase after adding part of the neutralizer of the formula

DO NOT USE GLYCERIN TO DISPERSE NET-WRS

What are D-Phase architectures?

Nano emulsions that are concentrated emulsification systems w a large internal oil phase and small external phase with a large amount of glycerin

Have small particle size

Low energy processing

Double break comes from easy dilution into aqueous gel systems

What is the maximum internal phase for typical o/w emulsions and what happens if the internal phase exceeds 74%?

74% maximum internal phase for typical o/w phase emulsions

Once greater than 74%, shape changes from spherical to polyhedrons to allow for increased volume

What is the INCI for Barsolve NS-100?

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

What is Barsolve NS-100?

PEG free

Non-ionic multi-functional polyglyceryl fatty acid ester

D-phase emulsifier

Sebum cleanser

Hydrophilic emulsifier

What are the 3 architectures that Barsolve NS-100 can form?

D-Phase

D-Phase Dilutions

O/W

Applications/Mechanism/Type of Oils/Textures of D-Phase emulsions (Barsolve NS-100)

Cleansing gels/color cosmetics

High internal phase

Any type of oils can be used

High viscosity textures

Applications/Mechanism/Type of Oils/Textures of D-Phase dilutions (Barsolve NS-100)

Customizable emulsions

Stable/dispersible emulsion into hydrous bases

Any type of oils can be used

Low-high viscosity

Applications/Mechanism/Type of Oils/Textures of o/w emulsions (Barsolve NS-100)

Creams/lotions

Micelle formation

Any type of oils can be used

Low - high viscosity

What are the processing guidelines for Barsolve NS-100 for s-phase emulsions?

Pre disperse Barsolve NS-100 in glycerin

What architectures create o/w emulsions?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

NET-APS

NET-SMT

Lecinol S-10

NET-OWP

NET-WRS

Barsolve NS-100

What architectures create w/o emulsions?

NET-WO NS

What architectures create w/si emulsions?

NET WS-CF

What architectures have electrolyte tolerance?

NET-LCS

NET-SMT

Lecinol S-10

NET WS-CF

NET-WO NS

Barsolve NS-100

What architectures are oil free?

NET-APS

NET-SMT

Lecinol S-10

NET WS-CF

NET-WO NS

NET-OWP

NET-WRS

Barsolve NS-100

What architectures are PEG free?

NET-LCS PF

NET-APS

NET-SMT

Lecinol S-10

NET-WO NS

NET-OWP

Barsolve NS-100

What architectures are not PEG free?

NET-LCS

NET-WS CF

What architectures are silicone free?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

NET-APS

NET-SMT

Lecinol S-10

NET-WO NS

NET-OWP

Barsolve NS-100

What architectures are not silicone free?

NET WS-CF

NET-WRS

What architectures have skin barrier protection?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

NET-APS

Lecinol S-10

What architectures have active delivery data?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

Lecinol S-10

What architectures have moisturization data?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

NET-APS

Lecinol S-10

What architectures have SPF testing data?

NET-LCS

NET-APS

NET-WO NS

NET-WRS

What architectures are hot process?

NET-LCS

NET-LCS PF

NET-APS

NET-SMT

Lecinol S-10

What architectures are cold process/not temperature sensitive?

NET WS-CF

NET-WO NS

NET-OWP

Barsolve NS-100

What architecture is cold process, but hot pour sensitive up to 65C?

NET-WRS