chapter 18 - facials

milady cosmetology facials

alipidic

literally means “lack of lipids”; describes skin that does not produce enough sebum, indicated by absence of visible pores

alginate

seaweed-based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream; comes in powder form and are mixed w water or serums, and they dry to form a rubberized texture

ampoules

individual doses of serum, sealed in small vials

aromatherapy

therapeutic use of plant aromas for beauty and health treatment

chemical exfoliant

product containing chemicals that either loosen or dissolve cell buildup

clay-based masks

oil-absorbing cleansing masks that have an exfoliating effect and an astringent effect on oily and combo skin, making large pores temporarily appear smaller

cleansing milk

nonfoaming lotion cleansers designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin types and remove makeup

comedo

mass of hardened sebum and skin cells in a hair follicle; an open comedo (blackhead) when open and exposed to oxygen. closed comedones (whiteheads) that are blocked and do not have a follicular opening

contraindication

condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects

cream masks

masks often containing oils and emollients as well as humectants; have a strong moisturizing effects

electrotherapy

use of electrical currents to treat skin

emollients

oil or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving skin

enzymes

aka keratolytic enzymes or protein-dissolving agents; a type of chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving keratin protein in surface cells of skin

exfoliants

products that help exfoliation

exfoliation

removal of excess dead cells from skin’s surface

extraction

procedure in which comedones are removed from follicles by manual manipulation

facial

aka facial treatment; professional skin treatment that improves condition and appearance of skin

facial steamer

facial machine that heats and produces stream of warm steam that can be focused on client’s face or other areas of skin

friction

invigorating rubbing movement requiring pressure on skin w fingers or palms while moving them over underlying structure

gommages

aka roll-off masks; peeling creams that are rubbed on skin

humectants

aka hydrators or water-binding agents; ingredients that attract water

magnifying lamps

lamps w magnifying lens surrounded by circular light, providing a well-lit, enlarged view of skin

masks

aka masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, nourish, hydrate skin

massage

manual or mechanical manipulation of body by rubbing, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain

massage products

lubricants used to make skin slippery during massage

mechanical exfoliants

methods used to physically remove dead cell buildup

microdermabrasion

mechanical exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at skin w hand held device that exfoliates dead skin cells

moisturizers

products that help increase moisture content in skin surface

motor point

point on skin over muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of muscle

paraffin wax masks

specifically prepared facial masks containing paraffin and other beneficial ingredients; typically used w treatment cream

petrissage

kneading movement preformed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing tissue w light firm pressure

rotary brush

aka facial brush or brushing machine; a rotating electrical appliance w interchangeable brushes that can be attached to rotating head

serums

concentrated products that generally contain higher concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

tapotement

aka percussion movements in which fingertips strike the skin in rapid succession or fast tapping movements

treatment cream

specialty product designed to facilitate change in skin’s appearance

vibration

in massage, the rapid shaking movement in which balls of fingertips are pressed firmly on point of application