Exfoliation Study Guide Flashcards

Fundamental vocabulary and concepts relating to skin exfoliation, chemical acids, application techniques, and safety protocols.

Cell Turnover Rate

The pace at which the skin undergoes cell shedding and regeneration.

Desquamation

The process when the skin makes, sheds, and replaces cells in the top layer.

Physical Exfoliation

Exfoliation methods that use tools or textures such as scrubs, brushes, or microdermabrasion.

Chemical Exfoliation

A category of exfoliation that includes enzymes and various acids.

PIH (Post inflammatory Hyperpigmentation)

A skin condition characterized by extra melanin formation following an injury.

Glycolic Acid

An AHA derived from sugar cane that possesses the smallest molecular size among AHAs.

Lactic Acid

An AHA derived from sour milk that helps with dark spots and dry skin, blocks tyrosinase, and is an ingredient in the Jessner peel.

Mandelic Acid

An AHA derived from bitter almonds.

Tartaric Acid

An AHA that is typically not used on its own and is instead mixed with other acids.

Malic Acid

An AHA derived from apples.

Salicylic Acid

A BHA that helps dissolve extra oil and fights inflammation; it should be avoided if a client is allergic to aspirin.

Self-neutralizing Acids

Acids that stop reacting on their own without a separate neutralizer, specifically TCA and salicylic acid.

Neutralizing

The process of using an alkaline to raise the $pH$ of the skin to stop further exfoliation.

TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid)

A synthetic acid that can reach the reticular dermis when a full frost happens; it is considered self-neutralizing.

Jessner Peel

A medium-depth peel made from a combination of salicylic acid, resorcinol, and lactic acid.

$pH$ and Peel Depth

The principle that the lower the $pH$ of a peel, the deeper it goes into the skin.

Enzymes

Exfoliants that gently eat away dead skin cells, work well for sensitive skin, and involve little to no downtime.

Frosting

A reaction that occurs when acid causes proteins in the skin to coagulate, creating a white film on the surface; the area should not be treated again once this appears.

Crystallization

A reaction during a salicylic peel that gives the skin a matte look upon application.

Post-Peel Sun Avoidance

The requirement for a client to stay out of the sun for 2 weeks following a chemical peel.

Pre-Peel Preparation

The period of 7-10 days before a peel when a client must stop using AHAs, BHAs, retinol, or other exfoliating products.

Approved Application Tools

Instruments such as rough gauze, gloved finger tips, fan brushes, or glycolic swabs used to apply chemical peels (Q-tips are not used).

Molecular Size and Penetration

The rule that the smaller the molecule, the deeper the peel goes; larger molecules do not penetrate as deeply.