COASTS

FLASHCARDS

True or False?

The coastline is the edge of the land marked by the low-water mark on a low-lying coast.

False.

The coastline is the edge of the land marked by the high water mark on a low-lying coast or at the foot of steep, sloped coasts.

Define the term fetch.

The fetch is the distance the wind travels over water.

What does swash mean?

The swash is the movement of water up the beach.

State the meaning of backwash.

Backwash is the return movement of water down the beach.

What is a constructive wave?

A constructive wave is a beach-building wave with a long wavelength, a low frequency rate, and a shallow wave gradient. Its swash is stronger than its backwash.

What is the definition of hydraulic action?

Hydraulic action is the erosive force of water as it hits the coastline, compressing air in cracks, which explode and break off rock fragments.

Define attrition.

Attrition is the process where rocks and pebbles carried by waves collide with each other and the shoreline, causing them to break and become smoother.

How is the tidal range calculated?

The tidal range is calculated by finding the difference between high and low tide.

What is corrosion in relation to coastal processes?

Corrosion is the chemical erosion and dissolving of rocks by seawater.

True or False?

Longshore drift moves material along the coast in a straight line.

False.

Longshore drift moves material along the coast in a zig-zag pattern.

What is a berm?

A berm is a ridge of sand and shingle formed at the top of a beach by storm waves.

Define wave refraction.

Wave refraction is the bending of waves as they approach the shore at an angle, causing them to become more parallel to the coastline.

What is a wave-cut platform?

A wave-cut platform is a flat or gently sloping surface formed by wave erosion at the base of a sea cliff.

Define the term headland.

A headland is a high point of land that projects out into the sea, usually made of more resistant rock.

True or False?

Bays are formed in areas of more resistant rock.

False.

Bays are formed in areas of less resistant rock that erode more quickly than the surrounding harder rock.

What does a discordant coastline mean?

A discordant coastline is where bands of different rock types run perpendicular to the coast.

State the meaning of stack.

A stack is an isolated pillar of rock standing in the sea, formed when a sea arch collapses.

What is a spit?

A spit is a depositional feature with a long, narrow build-up of sand or shingle projecting from the land into the sea, often with a curved or hooked end.

Define tombolo.

A tombolo is a bar of sand or shingle linking an island to the mainland or another island.

What is the definition of a lagoon?

A lagoon is a shallow body of water that has a sand bar, coral reef, or other barrier separating it from the sea.

True or False?

Sand dunes are only found in desert environments.

False.

Sand dunes can also form in coastal areas where there is a supply of sand and onshore winds.