Weaving

Weaving Basics

Perpendicular Interlacing of 2 Sets of Yarn

LONGITUDINAL (Vertical) Weave

WARP

Warp threads are called “ends”

LATERAL (Horizontal) Weave

WEFT

Weft threads are called PICKS

Weft

right to LEFT

Weave repetition

basic pattern that get multiplied (repeated) in the woven fabric

Picks

Weft threads

Selvedge

Edge of the fabric

Warp-Weighted Looms

Used from antiquity to middle ages

weights give necessary tension

Basics of what happens on a loom

connect several warp ends together and lift them, making it easier to insert weft

Reed

Named that because the first were made from reeds

Weaving Steps

• Warping

• (warp sizing)

• Threading and Sleying

• Tension

• Weft Insertion

Step 1: Warping

• preparing warp ends that will be placed in loom

• warping board/warping mill/drum

• Then sizing and beaming loom

Step 2A: Threading

Attaching warp ends to the shafts through heddles > way the warp is threaded determines a set of possible patterns

Step 2B: Sleying

Taking the warp ends through the dents of the reed at the desired density

Step 3: Weaving

• insertion of weft in the shed

• the reed beats the weft thread against the woven cloth

Shed

Space created by the division of the warp into 2 sets of ends, thanks to the action of the shaft

Manually and semi-artisanally

Weaving (S3) is done with a shuttle

Industrially

Weaving (S3) is done with a rapier or air jet

Fundamental Structures for Interlacing Warp and Weft

• Plain Weave

• Twill

• Satin

Plain Weave Process

Needs only 2 shafts

• Pick 1: one over, one under

• Pick 2: reversed; one under, one over

Plain Weave Qualities

• High Stability

• Flat

Plain Weave General

• fabric has same face and back side

• Very dif types of fabrics can be achieved depending on density, yarn

Plain Weave Examples

poplin, taffetas, crepe georgette, faille, etc

Plain Weave Variations

• Basketweave

• Corded Ottoman

• Repp

Variation of Basketweave

“Grain de Poudre”

used in tuxes by YSL

Twill General

• Diagonal Weave

• Fabric’s face and back can be different

Twill Process

Requires at least 3 shafts

• 1 over, 3 under

• shifting 1 to right or left: 1 over, 3 under

• shifting, etc

Twill Uses

Basic weave for denim, gabardine, tweed…

Twill Qualities

Stable, less rigid and flat than plain weave

Gabardine

2/1 or 2/2 twill weave, combed yarn

tight weave, more threads per cm in warp than in weft

diagonal at 63 degrees instead of 45

Gabardine Uses

• military wear

• trench coats

• chinos

• cargo pants

Gabardine Qualities

• dense

• flexible but w/good hold

• clean diagonals

• water-repellent effect

• little creasing

Twill Variations - Cross Twill

• over 2 under 2

• fabrics face and back are identical

Twill Variations

• chevron

• Herringbone (broken chevron)

Twill Variations

Houndstooth

Twill Variations

Glen Check

Twill Variations

Large Houndstooth

Twill Variations

Shepherd’s Check

Twill Variations

Gun Club

Satin

Long floating yarns

needs at least 5 shafts

Satin Weaving Process

• 1 over 4 under

• shift of 2 or more warp ends, then 1 over 4 under

• “floats”

• the warp (or weft) is predominant on each side

Satin: If difference in yarn shine

one shine side, one duller side

Satin Qualities

• dense

• fragile

• smooth

• more SLIPPERY than shiny

Complex Weaves

Based on variations and combos of core weaves (plain weave, twill, satin)

Visual and Texture Effects created by Complex Weaves

• velvet

• corduroy

• waffle

• cloqué

• piqué

• quilted

Figures Created by Complex Weaves

• Jaquards

• Brochés

Reversible fabrics created by Complex Weaves

• Double Weave

• Separable double face

Velvet - Corduroy

1 warp + 2 wefts:

• 1 weft for fabric base

• 1 weft for velvet’s “hair” (pile yarn)

• Pile yarn cut at reg sections > RIDGES

Smooth Velvet

1 warp + 2 wefts:

• 1 warp for fabric base

• 1 weft for pile yarn

• pile yarn is cut EVENLY

Piqué, Waffled, Quilted

• Additional floats to create reg texture

• in shirting called “Dobby”

Honeycomb

• Weave with long floats

• absorbant

Seersucker

Cloqué and wrinkled effect: dif tension in warp, retraction of warp post weaving

Inseparable Double Face

• 2 wefts and 1 warp or vice versa

• additional weft or warp threads on fabric back bind w/weft or warp on fabric front

Separable Double Face

Fabric made of 2 warps and 2 wefts - w/binding threads linking 2 fabrics together

Jacquard Weaving

• Invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard in early 19th century

• Improvement of the draw loom that employed children (“dobbies”)

Jacquard = 1st computer ever?

functions w/punch cards on basically binary system - programming

Jacquard Process

• HEDDLES supporting the warp thread can MOVE INDEPENDENTLY (no shaft)

• gives ability to weave very large, complex drawings and structures

Damask

Monochrome jacquard

Brocade

Metallic and Lamé yarns

Cut-Yarn Jacquard

• Technique used for spaced patterns

• long floating yarns cut to a few millimeters around motifs edges - leaves tiny fringed border that frames motif

Figured Fabric

• additional weft yarns dont run from one selvedge to the other in the fabric but only appear where the motif calls for it

• Complex, delicate system usually used in expensive fabrics 

• helps avoid long floats to make light fabrics and limits material waste