Fashion Fabrics Exam 2

Woven types

plain, twill, satin, jacquard, extra yarn, dobby, pile, slack tension

Knit types

weft-single, double

warp-tricot, raschel

pile

Woven thread count

Balanced: similar # of yarns/inch in both directions

Unbalanced: more yarns/inch in both directions

Knit gauge

Stitches per inch across the fabric

Higher gauge= finer loops

Lower gauge= courser loops

Higher thread count/gauge

-finer yarns

-smoother hand

-better flexibility/softer drape

-better abrasion resistance

-better dimensional stability

-better cover

Lower thread count/gauge

-bulkier yarns

-coarser hand

-more structured drape

-poorer abrasion resistance

-can be less opaque

-less durable

Extremely light or sheer weight clothes

sheer or gauzy fabrics

Light or top weight clothes

blouses, shirting, light dresses

Medium weight clothes

heavier shirting or lighter bottoms

Bottom weight clothing

slacks, suiting, lighter jackets

Heavy weight clothing

work clothes, heavier coats, traditional denim

Heavy weight properties

-more fiber

-more structured drape

-better durability

-potential thicker cover

Light weight properties

-less fiber

-softer drape

-softer hand

-potential thin cover

Woven fabric definition

2 sets of yarns interlacing at right angles to one another

Plain weave

-grid-like appearance (1×1)

-half basket (2×1)

-most common, least expensive

-can improve resiliency and flexibility

Twill weave

-diagonal ridges of face

-floats

-2/1 or 3/1

-better flexibility and resiliency

-allows for higher thread counts

Broken twill

-herringbone

-houndstooth

Satin weave

-smooth face with long floating yarns

-at least 4/1

-better resiliency and higher thread count

-more flexible and fluid drape

snags

-good to excellent luster

-can unravel

Satin vs. sateen

satin: filament yarns, typically silk or polyester, lustrous, more fluid

sateen: spun yarns, cotton blend, subdued luster, more structured

Jacquard weave(complex)

-larger, complex designs woven in

-floats that snag

-created on jacquard loom

-heavy weight

ex: coats and accessories

Jacquard damask vs. brocade

damask: 1 or 2 colors, reversible, flat and curvilinear design, either filaments or spun

brocade: richly colored, woven curvilinear design, metallics, filaments

Dobby(complex)

-small, geometric woven in with floating yarns.

-flat: dobby shirting or lining

-textured: pique and waffle cloth

Pile(complex)

-extra sets of yarns on the surface-looped or cut

-bottom to heavy weight

-warmer

-softer hand

-good resilience

Cut vs uncut pile

cut: fuzzy ends on surface, velvet, corduroy

uncut: loops on surface, terrycloth

Velvet vs. velveteen

velvet:

-cut warp, longer pile

-filament

-better drape and luster

-distinct face and back

-formal

velveteen:

-cut weft, shorter pile

-spun

-more structured

-distinct face and back

Extra yarn weave

-extra yarn floats

-floating or clipped yarns

Ex: dotted swiss and shirtings

Why are extra yarn fabrics used?

texture, durability, unique designs, functional properties-insulation and moisture-wicking

Slack-tension(complex)

-puckering along alternating warp yarn tension

-expensive because of slow process

-no ironing

-crinkle look

Knit fabric

yarn creates interconnected loops, better elasticity than weaves, susceptible to snags and distortion

Knit stitches

knit: V’s, purl: waves, tuck: openwork, ex-pointelle or miss floats

Courses

across in knits

Wales

length in knits

Warp

yarns running parallel to selvage (stronger), no stretch

Weft

yarns running perpendicular to the selvage (crosswise grain), little stretch

Woven stretch

most is in the bias of the fabric

Balanced weave

similar number yarns/inch in each direction

Unbalanced weave

more yarns/inch in either warp or weft direction and create ribs and less drape

Which kinds of weaves are more likely to have a higher thread count?

sateen, twill, jaquard, damask

How does yarn type affect thread count?

-finer yarns allow for more thread

-thicker yarns have fewer thread count

-single-ply have a higher thread count

-finish and treatment can support higher thread count

Balanced weave properties

-better abrasion resistance

-lower resiliency

-more structure

-poor luster

Unbalanced weave properties

-ribbed surface

-less fluid

-less resilient

-lower abrasion resistance

Knit good properties

-faster to produce

-increased elasticity

-fluid drape

-better wrinkle recovery

-can insulate well

Knit bad properties

-distortion

-snag and pull

-run or ladder

Weft knits

-one yarn feeds across fabric

-single or double

-better elasticity

-snags and runs

Single weft (jersey)

knit stitches on face, purl on reverse

-top weight

-fluid drape

-bulkier yarn, lower gauge=sweater knit

drawbacks:

-edges curl

-shape is distorted

Double knit

made with two sets of of needles

-less distortion

-more stability

-wide range of yarns, end uses

ex: rib, interlock, some sweater knits

Rib knit

Alternating rib and purl stitches

-increased elasticity

-cuffs and collars

-thicker yarns=sweater knits

Jacquard knit

-pattern knitted in with different color yarns

-can be single or double

Pointelle

-open work patterns made with tuck stitches

-typically lighter weight

Waffle knit

adds more bulk through texture and extra yarn layers

Warp knits

-one yarn or set of yarns fed in across the fabric, in courses

-loops fed in wales, zigzagging the length of fabric

-less susceptible to running or laddering

-less elasticity

-made on flat knitting machines

Tricot

fastest knit production

-finer/higher gauge and more tightly

-filament

-uniform filament

-knit stitches on face

-horizontal floats and reverse underlaps

Tricot end uses

lingerie, sleepwear, swimwear, and activewear

Raschel

knitted in patterns and openwork

-filament or spun

common uses: laces, crochets, nets, sweater knits, and power mesh

Filament

long, continuous strands

Spun/staple

short, fuzzy and need to be spun

Knits apparel use

sweaters, outerwear, comfy clothing

Knits vs. woven

knits are more elastic, soft, wrinkle resistant, and less durable and wovens are durable, wrinkle, and have more structure