LECTURE 7 - FRAGRANCES AND ATTRACTION

Fragrance

A scent that evokes emotions and memories.

Fragrance and Attraction

closely linked

through the interaction of pheromones and

neurotransmitters.

Pheromones

Chemical signals influencing attraction and behavior.

Neurotransmitters

Chemicals transmitting signals in the nervous system.

Home Fragrances

Products like candles and incense for pleasant scents.

5 primary odor categories

1. Fresh notes
2. Floral notes
3. Oriental notes
4. Woody notes
5. Animal notes

Fresh Notes

Citrus, marine, and green scent categories.

Floral Notes

Scent categories including rose and jasmine.

Oriental Notes

Rich scents like amber and incense.

Woody Notes

Earthy scents like sandalwood and cedar.

Animal Notes

Scent categories including musk and civet.

Fragrance Pyramid

Layered structure of fragrance notes.

Perfumery triangle

shows how fragrances are layered

Top Notes

Initial scents that create first impressions.
- fresh and vibrant scents

Middle Notes

Heart of fragrance, typically floral scents.
- floral scents

Base Notes

Rich scents providing depth and longevity.
- woods and musk scents

Essential Oils

Natural extracts used in fragrance creation.

Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry

Technique for analyzing fragrance components.

Nuclear Magnetic Resonance

Technique for identifying molecular structures.

Infrared Spectroscopy

Technique analyzing molecular vibrations.

GC-olfactometry

crucial technique
for identifying key components of essential oils, fruits, or spices.

Synthetic Molecules

Chemically created compounds for fragrances.

Technologies used in flavor and frangrance industries

➢ Diels-Alder reaction (Nobel Prize 1950)
➢ Wittig reaction
➢ Aldol condensation
➢ Metathesis cyclization (Nobel Prize 2005)
➢ Grignard reaction
➢ Oxidation reactions: using CrO3
, KMnO4
, H2O2
➢ Reductions: using LiAlH4
, NaBH4
, diborane (Nobel Prize 1979)
➢ Asymmetric hydrogenation (Nobel Prize 2001)

Diels-Alder Technology

utilized in the synthesis of various
flavor and fragrance molecules used in consumer and fine
fragrances.

Nitrile Functional Group Transformations

creation of consumer fragrances, stability in
basic environments (e.g., soaps, shampoos) is crucial.

Hydroformylation of R-(+)-Limonene and Ene
Reactions

used to synthesize spicy
and woody notes, such as Prismantol, which are then
incorporated into consumer fragrances.

Search for New Amber Notes

Amber notes are crucial in perfumery for their long-
lasting, attractive scents.

Diels-Alder Reaction

Chemical reaction for creating complex molecules.

Wittig Reaction

Method for synthesizing alkenes from aldehydes.

Aldol Condensation

Reaction forming carbon-carbon bonds in molecules.

Metathesis Cyclization

Nobel Prize-winning reaction for organic synthesis.

Grignard Reaction

Reaction forming carbon-carbon bonds using magnesium.

Asymmetric Hydrogenation

Nobel Prize-winning reaction for creating chiral molecules.

Nitrile Functional Group

Group used in stability transformations for fragrances.

Aldehyde Groups

Common in fragrances, prone to side reactions.

Fleuranil

Aromatic nitrile ingredient used in fragrances.

Cassiffix Synthesis

Process creating stable cassis note in fragrances.

Hydroformylation

Reaction synthesizing spicy and woody fragrance notes.

Amber Notes

Long-lasting scents crucial in perfumery.

(-)-l-Ambrox

Key amber molecule synthesized for fragrances.

Collection

Harvesting essential ingredients for fragrance production.

Extraction

Oils are extracted from plant materials through methods
such as steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage,
maceration, or expression.

Steam Distillation

Vaporizes essential oils using steam.

Solvent Extraction

Uses solvents to extract essential oils from plants.

Manufacturing Process

Enfleurage, Maceration, Expression

Enfleurage

Absorbs fragrance using grease-coated glass sheets.

Maceration

Uses warmed fats to absorb flower scents.

Expression

- oldest and simplest extraction methos
- Pressing plant materials to extract oils.

Blending

Combining perfume oils according to expert formulas.

Alcohol Content in Perfumes

Varies: 10-20% oils, 80-90% alcohol in colognes.

Aging

Process of maturing perfume for optimal scent.

3 notes of essential oil and perfume

"notes de tête" (top notes), "notes de cœur" (heart
notes), and "notes de fond" (base notes).

Quality Control

Ensures consistency and availability of fragrance materials.

Notes de Tête

Top notes in perfume, perceived first.

Notes de Cœur

Heart notes in perfume, develop after top notes.

Notes de Fond

Base notes in perfume, linger longest.

Synthetic Fragrances

Provide stability and reduce reliance on natural sources.

Natural Oils

Prized in luxury perfumes but inconsistent.

Animal Products

Sourced from animals, often endangered or protected.

Prismantol

Spicy and woody note used in fragrances.

Grisalva

Molecule contributing to amber scent in perfumes.

Galaxolide

Synthetic musk compound enhancing fragrance performance.