Chapter 6 - Skin Care Products: Chemistry, Ingredients, and Selection

Cosmetics

as defined by the U.S. Food And Drug Administration (FDA): articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance

cleanser

soap or detergent that cleans the skin

moisturizers

products formulated to add moisture to the skin

cosmeceutical

term used to describe high-quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance

natural

terms often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources

all natural

term often used in marketing for skin care products and all ingredients derived from natural sources

organic

term used to describe natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals

cruelty-free

term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals

vegan

a product that is labeled ____ should not contain any animal ingredients or animal by-products

lanolin

emollient with moisturizing properties; also, an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities

hypoallergenic

refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions

fragrance-free

this term indicates that no additional ingredients have been added to a product to specifically provide a fragrance; however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent

lavender

antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing

unscented

products formulated to have no smell; because most ingredients in a formulation do have an odor, more ingredients have to be added to neutralize the smell

functional ingredients

ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form, such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also _________

urea

properties include enhancing the penetrative abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin

fragrances

give products their scent

zinc oxide

mineral physical sunscreen ingredient that reflects UVA and UVB rays; also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antimicrobial

performance ingredients

ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin

anhydrous

describes products that do not contain any water

emollients

oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss

lipids

fats or fat-like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin

liquid paraffin

emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

coconut oil

derived from coconut, one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

palm oil

derived from the oil palm tree; one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

hemp seed oil

derived from hemp seeds, very light botanical oil used as an emollient

fatty acids

emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats

lubricant

coats the skin and reduces friction; mineral oil is a ____

fatty alcohols

emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

fatty esters

emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols

detergents

type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products

emulsifiers

surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend

delivery systems

systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

vehicles

spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

liposomes

closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release

polymers

chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate

preservatives

chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; they kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling

parabens

one of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against diverse organisms

methylparaben

one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic

Quaternium-15

all-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. Probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies

chelating agents

a chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative

essential oils

oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche

aromatherapy

therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service

herbs

hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize

olfactory nerves

“smell” receptors in the nose that communicate with parts of the brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories

color agents

substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color

certified colors

inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)

lakes

insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

noncertified colors

colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments

carbomers

ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products

pH adjusters

acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products

sodium bicarbonate

baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and pH adjuster

alcohol

antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents; specially denatured (SD) alcohol is a mixture of ethanol with a denaturing agent

botanicals

ingredients derived from plants

exfoliation

peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin

enzymes

provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface

alpha hydroxy acids

abbreviated AHAs; acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Alpha hydroxy acids also stimulate cell renewal

water soluble

mixable with water

beta hydroxy acids

exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs). BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

salicylic acid

beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

oil soluble

compatible with oil

retinol

natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells

phthalates

plasticizers used in skin care formulas to moisturize and soften skin, and to dissolve or blend ingredients

humectants

ingredients that attract water; draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dehydration

hydrators

ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface

hydrophilic agents

ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface

retinoic

vitamin A derivative that has demonstrated an ability to alter collagen synthesis and is used to treat acne and visible signs of aging; side effects are irritation, photosensitivity, skin dryness, redness, and peeling

keratolytic

agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells

peptides

chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin’s firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides

healing botanicals

substances from plants such as chamomile, aloe, plant stem cells, and botanical oils that help to heal the skin

plant stem cells

derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; health and anti-aging benefits

polyglucans

ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism; hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin

beta-glucans

ingredients used in anti-aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

glycoproteins

skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing

titanium dioxide

inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation

acai berry

very rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E; protects, replenishes; helps heal damaged skin

algae

seaweed derivatives used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants; also nourishes the skin with vitamins and minerals

seaweed

____ derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness

allantoin

derived from the root of the comfrey plant, helps to soften and protect while actively soothing skin

aloe vera

popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and humectant with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties

alpha lipoic acid

a natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

argan oil

derived from the kernels of the argan tree; very light botanical oil used as an emollient

azulene

derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

benzoyl peroxide

drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne

calendula

anti-inflammatory plant extract

chamomile

plant extract with calming and soothing properties

Coenzyme Q10

powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells

echinacea

derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system

glycerin

formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams

green tea

powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant

kojic acid

skin-brightening agent

licorice

anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation

mineral oil

lubricant derived from petroleum

petrolatum

emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

squalane

derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient

sulfur

reduces the activity of oil glands and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells; commonly used in acne products

tea tree oil

soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties

witch hazel

extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent

toners

also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin’s surface

fresheners

toners, skin-freshening lotions, and liquids applied after cleansing to soothe and hydrate