[16] 6133 LEC- Facial Makeup Products

FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS

• Used to make the skin look natural, provide smooth and even complexion, give contour to the face, and cover up imperfections, such as dark circles under the eyes and age spots on the face

TYPES OF FACIAL MAKEUP PRODUCTS

• foundation

• concealers

• blush (rouge)

• contour and bronzers

• highlighters

• primers

• finishing products

FOUNDATION

• Designed to create a uniform color, provide coverage to the skin, and blend uneven facial color for all skin tones 

• Typically applied on total facial area

FOUNDATION

• available as

• Liquid

• Compact product

• Sticks

• Creams

• Mousse

• Loose powders

CONCEALERS

• Designed to mask minor skin problems, such as small visible blemishes, pimples, age spots and dark circles under the eye

• Much thicker and heavier in pigments

• Color correctors contain pigment that neutralize unwanted colors on the face 

• Applied to areas of more concern on the face

CONCEALERS

• Available as:

• Powders

• Creams

• Sticks

• Liquids 

BLUSH (ROUGE)

• Designed to add color to the cheeks 

• Applied over foundation to emphasize and highlight the cheekbones and provide structure to the face

Powder blush

have more vivid pigments that facial powder

Cream rouges

are similar to anhydrous foundations, which contain emollients, waxes and pigments

CONTOUR PRODUCTS AND BRONZERS

• Designed to create illusion of more defined face shape 

• Applied strategically in certain areas to add structure and create definition

• Available as powders, sticks and creams

Contour products

are usually matte and sculpt the face

Bronzers

tend to be shimmery, more orange and provide diffused, sun-kissed look

HIGHLIGHTERS

• Designed to highlight parts of the face usually exposed to the sun 

• Make skin appear instantly radiant, glowing and refreshed

• Available as powders, sticks, liquids and creams

PRIMERS

• Designed to smoothen and prepare the skin for the foundation

• Used as first step of makeup application

• May be colorless or colored

• Available as creams and liquids

FINISHING PRODUCTS

• Designed to provide matte finish and sheer coverage, and complete the makeup on the face 

• Applied as the last step of makeup application, and may be used to touch up the makeup during the day to mask facial shine 

• Available as sprays and powders

REQUIRED CHARACTERISTICS

• Pleasant and easy application 

• Soft and comfortable 

• Concealment of flaws like wrinkles and pores

• Good coverage, consistent and even color

• Even and homogenous film on the skin 

• Matte and smooth finish

• Non-settling, non-tacky and non-greasy feel

• Improved appearance, but not artificially 

• Long-lasting effect

• Non-transfer properties

• Relatively quick drying, with good skin adhesion 

• Consistent shade between bottle tone and skin tone 

• Powders: good pay-off

  INGREDIENTS OF FACIAL POWDER MAKEUP

• fillers

• absorbents

• binders

• colorants

• preservatives

• antioxidants

• texture enhancers

• fragrances

FILLERS

• Provide a base (bulk) for the pigments 

• Contribute to the slip and consistency of the powders 

• Help dilute colors and may be used as color extenders

FILLERS

• include

talc, silica, boron nitrides, bismuth oxychloride and mica

ABSORBENTS

• Dense powders that increase overall density of facial powders 

• Improve aesthetics of the formulation

• Can absorb excess oil from the skin

• Impart skin adhesion to finished product

ABSORBENTS

• include

• kaolin, starch, and calcium carbonate

BINDERS

• Help the cake stick together, provides some water repellency to the formulas, and provide skin adherence

• Used in loose and pressed powders

• Include solids like starches, and liquids like ethylhexyl palmitate and silicone oils

BINDERS

• Include

• solids like starches, and

• liquids like ethylhexyl palmitate and silicone oils

COLORANTS

• Mainly inorganic pigments like iron oxides (yellow, red, and black), ultramarine blue, and chrome oxide (green)

• Colored and uncolored pearls are added for lustrous effect on the skin

• Treated and coated pigments are used to improve pigment dispersion and formula stability

• Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are added to provide coverage

Colored and uncolored pearls

are added for lustrous effect on the skin

Treated and coated pigments

are used to improve pigment dispersion and formula stability

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are added to

provide coverage

PRESERVATIVES

• Aimed at specific ingredients like starches which are ideal media for microbiological growth 

• Phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol are commonly used

ANTIOXIDANTS

• Used to protect some ingredients from degradation and rancidity 

• Low levels of BHA, BHT, or vitamin E

TEXTURE ENHANCERS

• Help ingredients mix more uniformly, provide additional slip, and improve transfer resistance and oil resistance

TEXTURE ENHANCERS

• include

nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene, silica beads, silica powders and Teflon

Oil-based

• W/O or W/Si emulsions containing suspended pigments in the oil/silicone base

• Oil-based foundations

are easy to apply and allow pigment to be spread (because it is oily and will not easily dry out) on the face prior to setting. Ideal for dry skin because of moist skin feel left on the skin.

• Silicone-based foundations

are designed for oily complexion. Should be blended quickly for even coverage. Uses silicone-treated pigments. Stabilized with 1-2% electrolytes like sodium citrate, magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride and sodium tetraborate.

Oil-free

Commonly W/Si emulsions that contain silicones like dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane. For consumers with oily skin or skin problems like acne

Water-based

O/W emulsions with pigments suspended in the water phase. Appropriate for normal and oily skin. Tend to dry faster which may prevent even application.

Water-free

Anhydrous products that offer water-proof properties. Consists of oils, hydrocarbons, synthetic esters, silicones and waxes. More opaque, and suited for consumers with facial scarring who desire camouflaging. Formulations are not easily removed.

 CHARACTERISTICS OF FACIAL LIQUID AND SEMISOLID MAKEUP

Oil-based

Oil-free

Water-based

Water-free

INGREDIENTS OF FACIAL LIQUID AND SEMISOLID MAKEUP

• fillers

• pigments

• emollients

• emulsifiers

• thickening agents

• chelating agents

• film formers

• additional ingredients

FILLERS

• Act as matting and texturizing agents 

• Used to extend and fully develop colors 

• Act as absorbents to make skin velvety and fix color of the skin 

• Contribute to product spreadability

FILLERS

• Include

• talc, zinc stearate, starches, mica, silica, and bismuth oxychloride

PIGMENTS

Same types as used in facial powders like

iron oxides, ultramarine, chrome hydrate and chrome oxide, TiO₂ and ZnO

PIGMENTS

• Blush formulas contain pink-purple or peachy shades, contour products have brown-orange shades, and highlighters bear pearlescent gold or silver shades

• dispersed in the external phase of the emulsion for even appearance

EMOLLIENTS

• Oil phase, which provides the slippery and soft texture 

• Waxes function as structurants, thickeners and emulsifiers 

• Volatile silicones used in non-transfer formulations leave tinted film concentrates on the skin without staining clothes

EMOLLIENTS

• Include

• hydrocarbons (mineral oil and isodeodecane),

• vegetable oil (jojoba oil),

• synthetic esters of fatty alcohols isopropyl palmitate and glyceryl stearate),

• butters (shea butter)

• silicones (cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone)

EMULSIFIERS

• Act as pigment-wetting agents 

O/W emulsions are stabilized with

combination of anionic and nonionic emulsifiers like sodium cocoyl sarcosinate and glyceryl stearate 

W/O emulsifiers

include polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and laureth-7 

W/Si emulsifiers

include PEG-10 dimethicone

THICKENING AGENTS

• Provide appropriate viscosity to aid in pigment suspension and increase product stability

THICKENING AGENTS
Include

clays like magnesium silicate, bentonite and hectorite, cellulose derivatives, gums, acrylate copolymers, waxes and silicone crosspolymers

CHELATING AGENTS

• Bind metal ions and block prooxidant action of metal ions like iron oxides 

• Include EDTA and derivatives. polyphosphonic acid

 FILM FORMERS

• Provide water-resistance and long-lasting wear 

• Polyacrylate derivatives are used for non-tacky feel and wear resistance 

• Also include silicone resins

 ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

preservatives

• include sorbic acid, sodium benzoate and caprylyl glycol 

 ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

antioxidants

• are added to prevent rancidity of oily components 

 ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

anti aging ingredients

•  like antioxidants, botanical extracts and proteins 

  FORMULATION OF FACIAL LIQUID AND SEMISOLID MAKEUP

• direct pigment method

• pigment dispersion method

• pigment blends method

• monochromativ pigment dispersion concentrates

DIRECT PIGMENT METHOD

• Pigments are weighed directly into one of the phases and dispersed using a homogenizer or colloid. Emulsion is formed in the usual manner. 

• May require too many color adjustments and accurate color matching is difficult.

PIGMENT DISPERSION METHOD

• Individual pigments are mixed with an extender like talc before matching with standard. 

• Reduces number of color corrections, but making the dispersion requires extra step and larger storage space is required

PIGMENT BLENDS METHOD

• Pigments are premixed and pulverized with extenders, and color of blend is matched to a standard. Pigment blend is then dispersed in one of the phases, then emulsion is formed. 

• Color matching is done during blending stage which reduces the number of color corrections needed

MONOCHROMATIC PIGMENT DISPERSION CONCENTRATES

• Color concentrates of individual pigments are made in ready-to-use, finished form 

• Easy to color match using monochromatic solutions 

• Require larger storage space

ANHYDROUS LIQUIDS

• Based on emollients, silicone oils, butters and waxes with texturizers and film formers formulated to have a liquid or creamy consistency

• Beneficial for dry skin consumers 

• Product form for some blushes and highlighters

STICK FOUNDATIONS, CONCEALERS, CONTOUR PRODUCTS, HIGHLIGHTERS AND BLUSHES

• Molded foundations that are similar but larger than lipsticks 

• Anhydrous products containing oils, butters, waxes, pigments, wetting agents for pigments and texturizers like polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), mica, boron nitride and silica

TWO-WAY FOUNDATIONS

• Compact powder that may be applied using wet or dry sponge 

• Combine properties of cream foundation with a face powder 

• Using it dry provides lighter coverage and using it wet gives a heavier coverage 

• Most ingredients are hydrophobic to prevent clumping or caking when formulation when wet 

• Use silicone-treated pigments

CREAM-TO-POWDER FOUNDATIONS

• Supplied in compact form and applied with a sponge 

• Transform from velvety cream to a microfine powder when in contact with the skin

CREAM-IN-POWDER (POWDER-TO-CREAM)

• Loose powder that contains high proportion of liquid phase 

• Combination of treated pigment, cosmetic powder, and liquid phase 

• Thickeners: sodium carboxymethyl starch for water-based products and mica for oil-based products

FINISHING POWDERS

• May be colorless or colored powders with a sheer finish 

• Set the makeup and provide oil-blotting properties of previously applied foundation 

• Contain less pigments as color and less priority for coverage 

• May be used as touch-up during the day

FINISHING SPRAYS

• Lightweight liquids that evaporate quickly while setting the makeup and leaving a smudge-proof layer

MAKE-UP PRIMERS

• Colorless or slightly tinted semisolid formulations

• Used to smoothen the skin surface and prevent makeup from feathering or creasing 

• Typically silicone-based formulations that evaporate quickly after application to leave a dry finish on the skin

Green primers

are used to cancel redness

purple tones

cancel yellow and sallow tones

peach and salmon colors

cancel blue color under the eye

TALC

• Naturally occurring mineral chemically known as hydrous magnesium silicate 

• Cosmetic-grade talc is the purest form 

• Should not be contaminated with asbestos 

• May contribute to the development of ovarian cancer when used in body powders on the external genitalia

• According to the CIR Expert Panel, talc is safe for use in cosmetics based on current practices of use and concentration