EOS midterm II (mod 4,5,6)

what is Eustatic change??

sea level change that is measured all over the world

Three meain points of the Eutastic change

1) Amount of water in the world ocean can change

2) Changes in the size of the container

3) Thermal expansion-contraction of water

Eutastic is global or non global?

global

Static change?

sea level change that is measure locally

its more about the continent

name the 3 main points of Static change

1) Tectonic motion can affect the height and shape of the coast

2) Plates converging can cause uplift

3) Plates weighed down by ice during a glacial period can slowly rise as ice melts

eutastic sea level is ____ due to _____ of water

rising, warming

Compare coast, beach, shoreline

Coast: the water moves from ocean to inland. The land along the edge of the body of water

Beach: accumulation of sediment

Shoreline: where water meets landerosio

erosional vs depositional coast

erosional coast: shaped by land removal and are typically rocky/rugged

depositional coasts: built up by land creation through sediment accumulation and are characterizes by beaches and spits

what is erosion?

deposition of wave energy. Its the process where natural forces move earth materials like soil and rock from one location to another

erosion is caused by….

the concentration of wave energy on headlands

what causes deposition?

the reduced wave energy reaching shore in bays

reefs ____ small islands from ____ ____

shield, water energy

erosion will be more significant in the…..

headlands

erosion vs deposition plus examples

erosion: earth material being worn away. example: river carrying down mud, wind creating rock formations in desserts

deposition: the transported materials (sediments) are dopped or settled in a new location building up new landforms. examples: sand dunes, delta

selective erosion?

the process by which certain components of a surface are removes by erosion more quickly than others, altering the surface composition

name the erosional coastal features common headlands (4)

sea cliff, marine terraces, arch, stacks

sediments are classified by …..

size, sorting and rounding

pebbles >granules>courase sand

spretd rocks are….

similar sizes

The ____ the particle, the _____ slower it settles out of suspension

smaller, slowe

Rocks are _____ the farther away from the _____

bigger, ocean

name the 5 types of beaches

coastal plain, barrier island, tombolo, pocket beach, sand spitn

name the 4 types of shore from the beach profile

Back shore, foreshores, nearshore, offshore

explain what happens with sediment in april, june, august, september, december, feberuary and april

April: its summer, so sediment is low

June: less wave energy, transport sediment to the beach but dont have enough energy to take it back. slope of beach is gradual

August: beach is shallower, sand is accumulating, same as in june

September: when sand reaches its maximum, larger and more energetic waves due to storms

December: high energy waves, they take sediment off the beach

February: very steep aspect, take sediment offshore

April: very low sediment inventory

Conclusion: summer has low energy waves and low sediment and in winter w ehave high energy waves that take away the sediment.

Talk about the two types of waves and the breakers

Constructive and destructive waves

spilling (no steep), plunging (steep) , surging (very steep)

what are beach cusps

repeating, crescent shaped indentation form on beaches due to wave action

longshore current?

coastal current that flows parallel to the shoreline and within the surf zone

longshore drift?

the process of sediment being transported by waves along a coast parallel to the shoreline

rip currents?

a powerful, narrow channel of water that flows quickly away from the shore. swim parallel to the beach to survive

coastal circulation cells? 

localizes oceanographic or littoral systems that move sediment and water along the coast

depositional coastal features? 

longsore current bay, sand spit, bay mouth area, tombolo, inlet, barrier islan, sea island 

how does a tombolo form?

wave refraction: the island is the obstruction for the waves

longshore drift: the refracted waves, arriving at an angle, push sediment along the coastline

deposition: sediment carried by the longshore drift accumulate on the sheltered area behind the island, building up a connection

connection: the end

How are spits formed:

by sediments transported in the longshore current

they end with a hook

bay mouth bars

water is low energy

a sandbar that extends across the mouth of a bay, partially or completely enclosing it 

barrier islands?

narrow sand bar, coastal protection

deltas?

how do humans impact how sand moves in coastal cells

dam rivers to generate electricity and get fresh water

build groins to trap sediment along the coast

groins and jettie and seawalls?

groins: accumulate sediments

jetties: allow access to harbours for boats

seawalls: attempt of homeowners to shield the shore in front of their dwellings from wave energy 

Ediz hook problem

The Ediz Hook problem refers to the erosion and degradation of a sand spit in Port Angeles, Washington, caused by reduced sediment supply from the Elwha River and the construction of shoreline armoring. This erosion threatens the spit itself, which protects the harbor, and the facilities on it, including a U.S. Coast Guard station, necessitating costly repair and nourishment projects. 

• Dams: The construction of dams on the Elwha River drastically cut the amount of sand and gravel flowing downstream.

• Shoreline armoring: The building of rock walls and other structures along the updrift (western) coastline, intended to stop erosion there, also blocks sediment from naturally reaching Ediz Hook.

Where would you expect the air to be rising?

the equator, but its actually sinking

Where would you expect air to be rising? What do we expect'?

tropics are warm, so air rise while the poles are cold so it has a sinking air

we expect there to be circulation cells, but they only happen in smaller scales

Actually,,,, how many circulation cells are there

3 in each hemisphere, 6 in total

Coriolis force? say the one sentence that describes what it does

this matter at a larger scale

Right on the north

left on the south

Its the apparent force to describe motion in a moving reference frame

Explain the example of buses

the ball will behave the same if the bus moves or not.

If you shoot the ball outside, the ball misses your friend

if your friend is also in another bus, the ball will still miss your friend

Coriolis force in Northern hemisphere

The slow bus is on the north

the fast bus is at the bottom

right on top

Coriolis force in the Southern hemisphere

left on south

Which way do the coriolis force bend the wind towards

R in N

L in S

explain what happens here

air paths must bend and it cannot move directly form poles to equator

coriolis force prevents single circulation cell in each hemisphere, instead it has 6 cells

answer: A, D, E, F

Clouds tend to form where air is _____. And usually we see a band of clouds near the____ where ___ air is rising

rising, equator, hot

Relative humidity _______ in sinking air, explains to some extent the desserts

decreases

answer: B

Rising air (air sucked off surface) has lower air pressure

Sinking air (air stuffed on surface) has higher air pressure

What is the atmospheric pressure difference:

pressure gradient force is what drives air to move

Lower atmospheric pressure is at the equator, higher atmospheric pressure at poles

pressure gradient force formula:

pressure change / distance

Larger pressure gradients drive faster wind

When you are near ground, _____ becomes important

friction

Surface winds?

wind direction is tilted towrd low pressure zone compared to upper atmosphere

4 key ideas of winds

rising at equator

6 cieculation cells

identify low and high pressure zones

surf wind direction

hurricane and cyclone 

hurricane: big pressure gradient

cyclone: low pressure at centre

A

anticyclone:

higer pressure at centre

air is sinking in centre

A

STG, SPG, ACC

subtropical gyre

subpolar gyre

antarctic circumpolar current

what is a gyre:

a large system of rotating ocean currents that form a circular motion driven by winds and the earths rotation

because the coriolis force deflects water to right of wind in NH and to the left of wind in SH

What is the ekman trasnport in the NH

surface water has a net movement of 90 degrees to the right of the wind direction

marine photosynthetic organism why are they important?

base of marine food chin

half of oxygen of the planet every year

some provide a habitat

consume CO2

Phytoplakton?

plankton that photosynthesizes

marine plankton?

organism that is carried by the movement of water

photosynthesizes, how does it work?

produces energy containing molecules (sugars) and oxygen (by product)

converts light energy into chemical energy through a two-stage process: light-dependent reactions and the Calvin cycle.

name two ways of producing energy:

photosynthesizes and respoiration

What organisms are made of biomolecules? what do they contain?

lipids, nucleic acid, carbohydrates, proteins

they all contain C, H, O

what is primary production? and what does it require?

creation of organic matter from inorganic compounds, through photosynthesis.

it requires “nutrients“, Nitrate and Phosphorus

what is a limiting factor?

an environmental factor that lacking can slow or stop productivity

A,B

the tropics have _____ ______ availability

constant light

Relationships between light and depth of water

Less light reaches a higher depth

What does surface water do?

absorbs light and is heated up

euphotic zone?

depth with enough light for primary production to exceed respiration

primary production:only in the euophotic zone

respiration: both euphotic zone and deeep water

C

red wavelengths…

blue wavelengths…

red: is absorved in the surface cuz it had longer wavelengths

blue: penetrate farthest

photosynthesize pigments absorbs specific wavelengths of light including short wavelengths that penetrate deeply

adaptations to prevent sinking in phytoplankton

spines increase drag

flagella allows weak swimming

low density vacuoles

pump heavy salt ions in and out of the cell

mixed layer?

were there is turbulance and mixes the water

take the table in consideration, explain what you see

at the top the water is in a mized layer, mixing due to turbulance

in the chart change, that is a sharp change in density (the pycnocline)

deeper layers of water stay in the same depth

A, B, D, F

Processes that deepend mixed layers?

Processes that should mixed layers?

high wind and cooling winter

surface warming, rain, river, ice melt

at higher latituds in winter, we have low light availability because of (2) in the summer?

1. Low surface radiation

2. Deeper mixed layer

its the opposite in summer

Respiration?

consumes organic matter and oxygen. produces CO2, nutrients and energy

Euphotic zone? deeper (darker) zone?

primary reproduction and respiration

respiration only

Dead plankton and fecal matter are _____ and _____

dense and sink

sinking organic matter brings….

carbon, nitrogen, phosphorous to depper ocean

mixing and upwelling can transport nutrients back to _____

euhpotic zone, upper zone

what is source and sink?

source: process that adds a substance

sink: process that consumes/removes a substance

shore, coast, eustatic change?

shore: place wher eocean mets land

coast: refers to the largers zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary

eustatic: variations in sea level that can measured all over the world ocean

Long term change in sea levels (3 factors)

3 of these factors are due to eustatic change

1. The amount of water in the world ocean can vary

2. The water itself may occupy more or less volume as its temperature changes

3. the volume of the oceans container may vary over long time frames

local sea changes (2)

1. Tectonic motions can change the heights and shape of coast

2. Wind and currents, storm, el niño can force water against the shore or draw it away

erosional coasts vs depositional coasts

erosional: remove coastal materials

depositional: rate of sediment accumulation

high energy coast vs low energy coast

high energy coast: frequent large waves

low energy coast: unfrequent large waves

erosional coasts features: (5)

sea cliffs

sea caves

sea arches

sea stacks

wave cut platform

headlands vs bays

wave energy is focused into headlands and away from bays

what s a beach

is a zone of loose particles that covers part or all of a shore

longshore drift? what is it and by what is it driven’

its the movements of sediment (sand) along the coast, driven by wave action