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part 1 and 2 of coast
Weathering and what type of process is it?
Happens outside the water when rock is broken down by natural processes from the Earth
(ie, rainfall, temperature or chemical reactions)
in situ (at one place)
and its a sub ariel process
erosion and what type of process?
when rock is broken down by the force of water
its a marine process. This continuos action helps shape coast lines
name four different types of erosion
attrition, -
abrasion,
solution
and hydraulicaction
attrition
material (mainly rocks) carried by waves gets rounder and smoother
this is because it collides with other rocks/ materials causing sharp edges to get knoched off
abrasion
waves throw stones and rocks at cliffs
rocks scrape against the cliff wearing it away
rocks keep rubbing against cliff over time until it’s loose therefore eventually eroding
solution
chemical reaction its when salt water reacts with different rocks
chemical reaction between them causes rocks to slowly erode and disslove
hydraulic action
waves crash against cliffs at high forces
over time waves force air pockets into the cracks in the rocks
the air then expands causing cracks to widen and loosen
where would erosion be higher
large fetch (so long fetch allows waves to grow in height and strength, making them more destructive to the coastline because they generate more force)
softer rock (really weak so it erodes wuite quickly)
area with a lot of destructive waves (because strong the backwashes leads to erosion)
rocks with more gaps (hydraulic action)
name 3 main different types of weathering (sub Ariel processes)
freeze thaw
chemical
biological
what is mechanical weathering give examples
Mechanical weathering (also called physical weathering)
is the breakdown of rocks into smaller pieces without any chemical change.
The rock’s minerals stay the same, only the size and shape change. examples are feeze thaw and exfoliation
freeze thaw weathering when does it occus and how
occurs when rocks are porous (contain holes) or are permable (allows water to pass through)
water first enters cracks in the rock
temperature drops below 0 degrees celcius and the water turns into ice. It expands by freezing and begins to push the rock apart
then when temperature rises the ice in the crack will melt so the water makes it way deeper into the crack
process repeats until rock splits entirely
biological weathering + how could it be chemical
weathering cause by plants and animals
animals might burrow into cracks and plants might grow their roots within
so as burrow or roots grows the crack becomes larger causing small pieces of rocks to break away
(or lichens and mosses release chemicals that dissolve the rock)
chemical weathering
rainwater and sea waters are weak acids
so because of them coastlines made of limestone or chalk dissolves in water over time
(another examples is carbonation its when weak carbonic acids attack rocks)
exfoliation
common in hot climates aka onion skin weathering
surface layers of the rock are heated so it expands during day
at night the outer layer cools down and contracts more than rest of the rock
cracks will form and rocks start to peel away like an onion
what is meant by permability and what are impermable rocks
the permability of a rockk defines hiw vulnerable a rock is to erosion
Impermable rocks are less vulnerable as water is not absobed into the rock
what does igneous and sedimentry mean
igneous is the strongest rock therefore it erodes slowly
sedimentry is the weakest rock so it erodes really quickly
what is mass movement
the shifting of loose material downa slope
how does mass movement happen and what does it cause
Weathering weakens coastal rocks.
Gravity causes them to collapse (mass movement).
Material falls to the sea and is eroded by waves.
how are waves created
Waves are caused when the wind blows over the sea transferring some of its energy.
Friction with the sea water causes ripples to form and these develop into waves as they reach the coast.
what does a fetch do and what is it
a fetch determines the height if a wave
a fetch is how far and how long wind has been blowing over the sea
what is long shore drift and how does it work
long shore drift is the movement along the shore by wave action. It haooens when waves aproach the beack at an angle due to prevailing winds
the swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up along the coast line
the backswash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at right angle
once the waves loose energy material is deposited further down the bay to form a beach

what type of weathering caused this
mechanical weathering (freeze thaw) this is possible due to low temperature

what type of weathering caused this and why
chemical weather the holes seen are formed due to rain (which is slightly acidic) -
so when the acid reacts with certain minerals dissolved the parts of rocks
so over a long period pits and holes such as the one you see are formed

what type of weathering is seen
biological weathering
the trees is seen growing in the cracks of the rock which will eventually erode it
3 main things waves do
they wear away or erode coasts
carry and transport eroded material
they drop or deposite it in sheltered areas when they loose energy
so waves shape the coastline by eroding transporting and depositing material
what’s traction, saltation and suspension
traction is when rocks roll aong the sea bed
saltation is when rocks bounce along the sea bed
suspension is when rocks are carried by the water
7 features of destructive waves
height- is high (more than 1m)
length- short
Frequency - more than ten a minute
energy- high
beach gradient- steep
main process- erosion
strong back wash but weakerswash
7 features of constructive waves
height- is low (less than 1m)
length- long
Frequency - fewer than ten a minute
energy- low
beach gradient- flat
main process- depostion
strong swash but weaker back wash
Long shore drift
LSD is the movement along the shore by wave action. It happens when waves approach the beach at an angle due to prevailing winds
The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material along the beach
The backswash (waves moving back down the beach) carries material back down the beach at a right angle
Once the wave looses energy it drops the material further along the bay to form a beach
What’s a bay
An area of soft (less resistant rocks) which has been worn away more than the headland
usually a sandy beach
What are headlands
Are hard more resistant rocks which are left sticking out the sea
Often known as cliffs
Formation of head lands and bays
Discordant beds of sediment face wave attacks from destructive waves
Destructive waves causes hydraulic action (so the waves come at high forces forcing air pockets into the cracks of rocks eventually causing the cracks to widen and loosen ) and abrasion (meaning the destructive waves throw stones and rocks at cliff causing the rock to wear away this causes the rocks to rub against cliff and until it’s loose and eroded)
So the less resistant rocks are eroded at a faster pace to create bays and the more resistant rocks stick out to form headlands (known as differential erosion)
During calm periods material is deposited to form a beach
Formation of cliff retreat
Sub Ariel process weathering (explain) weakens the top of the cliff
The sea attacks the base of the cliff due to marine processes called hydraulic action (explain) forming a wave cut notch
The notch increases in size causing the cliff to collapse due to gravity
The backwash carries rubble toward the sea forming a wave cut platform
This process repeats causing cliff to retreat even more
Put these in orders stack, stump, cave and arch
Cave
Arch
Stack
Stump
Formation of caves arches stacks and stumps
Destructive waves attack the line of weakness on the headland and erode it through abrasion and hydraulic action (explain)
As erosion continues the cracks are widened and deepened to form a cave
Eventually over time, erosion continues and will erode all the way through to form an arch
Freeze thaw weathering (explain) weakens the roof of the arch. Eventually it’s weakened so much to the point where it collapses due to gravity forming a stack
The bottom of the stack is eroded through wave action. This makes it unstable and the top of the cliff collapses to form a stump

Label the numbers
Cave
Arch
Stack
Stump
Features of sandy beaches
Sheltered where there is lower energy waves
Created by constructive waves with a stronger swash
Has flat/ shallow beach
Features of pebble beach
Exposed beaches which have a large fetch
Created by destructive waves with stronger backwash
Has deep/steep beach
Formation of a spit
A spit happens due to longshore drift (explain) so LSD brings material further down the coast.
Then waves loose energy causing material to deposit over shallow waters. As deposition continues over a long period of time, a long ridge of sand starts to form on top of the shallow water
The shape of a spit can look like a hook due to prevailing winds changing direction this causes material to deposit in a different direction
The spit seals off the estuary and the material which is deposited behind the spit provides a slit for the sal marsh to form
Formation of a bar
Bars form the same way as a spit initially (EXPLAIN) but bars are created where a spit grows across a bay joining two headlands
Behind the bar a lagoon is created where water has been trapped
However is some cases the lagoon may gradually be in filled (accumulates with sediment) as a slate marsh develops due to it being a low energy zone encouraging deposition
Formation of tombolo
Are formed a spit continues to grow by LSD (explain)
Joining land to an offshore island

Label what’s going on
1 direction of longshore drift
2 prevailing wind direction
3 formation of bar (initially formed as spit which grew across a bay joining two headlands)
4 lagoon (areas of water dammed by bar) will gradually be infilled with deposition
5 (old bay)
6 new island which has joined headland through bay

Label what’s going on
1 direction of LSD
2 direction of prevailing winds
3 lagoon
4 old bay
5 bar
6 Joining of two headlands
Formation of sand dune
Obstacles such as drift wood gets dropped on the beach
The wind blows sand up the beach which gets trapped of the obstacle
This creates an embryo dune
Colonizing pioneer plants like marram grass grow in the dune and stabilize it with their roots and trap more sand
As plants die they add more organic matter to the sand improving it for other plants to move in
At the very last stage as organic material increases to almost 40 percent of humus there’s more wood land and a larger distance from the sea
characteristics of sand dunes
Sand dunes can be small ridges or large hills found at the back of the beach
Can extend backwards for many miles as well as along beaches
R vuknerable to erosion by natural processes + human activity
n important ecosystem supporting unique flora and fauna that have adapted to live within the dune syste
What are corals
Are intervertabrate animals belonging to a large group of colourful and fascinating animals called cindora
What percentage of ocean area do they occupy, what percentage of species rely on them and give examples of countries that have them
0.1 percent
25 percent
Madagascar, Japan, west coast of Africa, Belize, Indonesia and autrailia
Amount of salinity needed for them to live on + how water should be
They need higher salt content so salinility must be 34-37 parts per 1000 (s.w-32 percent to 42)
Found at depths of less than 25m + water should be clear n clean to allow for optimum photosynthesis to occur
Amount of light and why + temp and why
Must be close to the surface couple of meters of tidal zone
Important to photosynthesis
Temp has to be 23-27 degrees Celsius
Above or below would cause the polyps to die not being able to grow to form larger colonies
Why are corals so important
Provides habitat and shelter for many organisms
Provides food for animals (nitrogon and nutrients for marine animals
Helps with nutrient recycling + purification of water and air +break down of pollutants
Provides a lot of food for people in developing countries providing jobs such as fishing snd tourism
Main threats to coral reefs
Climate change - they can’t survive if the temperature is too high and it can cause coral bleaching
Coral mining- reefs are used as bricks or road fill
Land based pollution such as road construction, deforestation, agriculture and etc - causes disease and mortality, disrupts ecological functions and prevents reproduction
Over fishing by doing things like fishing too many big fish or nurseries - disrupts food chain and provides less biodiversity making it weaker to climate change
Sedimentation
large amounts of sediment blocks polyps (living organisms that make up a coral)
Since corals rely on polyps to photosynthesis effectively they die without it
Distribution of mangroves
Found in warm tropical waters
Highly adaptable to changing conditions
Covers 25 percent of tropical ecosystems
Characteristics of mangroves
Mangroves are trees that grow along the coastline
They sit in water between 0.5 and 2.5 metres high
They need high levels of humidity (75 - 80%) and rainfall per annum (1500 - 3000 mm)
The ideal temperature for mangrove growth is around 27° C but they are adapting to more temperate climates
grows at intertidal zone
root system of mangroves
They have numerous tangled roots that grow above ground and form dense thickets
The mangrove root system is complex, with a filtration system to keep salt out
snorkel-like roots that stick out of the mud to help them take in air
Embryo Dunes
Wind-blown dried sand is trapped by debris and deposition begins
Pioneer species such as Lyme Grass and Sea Couch Grass begin to colonise
are very fragile and reach a maximum height of 1 metr
Fore Dunes
The embryo dunes bring some protection against the prevailing wind
This allows other species of plant to grow, such as Marram Grass
Marram grass begins to stabilise the dune with its root system
Yellow Dune
These are initially yellow but darken as organic material adds humus to the soil
Marram grass still dominates the vegetation, but more delicate flowering plants and insects are found in the dune slacks
20% of the dune is exposed, down from 80%
Grey Dunes
Grey dunes are more stable, with less than 10% of exposed sand and have a good range of biodiversity
Soil acidity and water content increase as more humus is added
Shrubs and bushes begin to appear
Mature Dune
As the name suggests, these are the oldest and most stable of the dunes
They are found several hundred metres or more from the shoreline
The soil can support a variety of flora and fauna, such as oak trees and alders (climax vegetation)
Distribution of salt marshe
Coastal areas that are well sheltered, such as inlets and estuaries where fine sediments can be deposited
Areas behind spits and artificial sea defences where tidal waters can flow gently and deposit fine sediments
They form in brackish water (intertidal zones)
Features of salt marshes
salt marshes are communities of nonwoody, salt-tolerant plants
They are good coastal defences in some areas, acting as a natural buffer against coastal erosion and flooding
They begin as tidal mudflats, gaining height as more sediment is deposited This builds up to and above the level, and frequency of tidal flooding, ensuring that the soil never dries out and remains muddy and sticky
biotic components of a coral reef
producers- seaweed, seagrass, and phytoplankton t provide the nutrients from photosynthesis to coral
consumers -primary, secondary, and tertiary
scavengers - feed on dead and decaying plants and animals
decomposers- bring nutrients back into the ecosystem to support another cycle examples include bacteria
Abiotic features of a coral reef
Corals need a certain amount of sunlight to survive Too little light and the zooxanthellae will not be able to photosynthesise and produce food for corals Too much light may cause corals to expel zooxanthellae, causing bleaching
Depth
Salinity
Biotic components of a mangrove
Producers Mangroves are the producers of their own ecosystem organisms feed on the detritus created from falling leaves
Primary consumers are usually the decomposers (e.g. the mangrove tree crab)
Secondary consumers are the larger predatory fish, turtles, and crabs
Tertiary consumers include birds (e.g. herons and ospreys)
Abiotic features of mangroves
Temperature: Mangroves grow in areas where the temperature isnt below 19°C
Oxygen: need oxygen to survive. Complex root systems allow the mangroves to receive the oxygen they need by sticking out of the water
Salinity: Mangroves have adapted to live in salt water, with some removing excess salt through their leave
Ocean currents: These distribute mangrove seeds and help keep the areas full of trees
biotic components of sandunes
Producers provide the initial beach fuel for dunes include: phytoplankton, (help grow p species)
Primary consumers: beetles, butterflies, moths,
Secondary consumers: sand lizards, snakes
Tertiary consumers: seagulls,
Scavengers: crabs, beetles, flies
Abiotic features of sand dunes Wind
prevailing wind -is needed to blow the dried sand into ridges
Tidal range – needs to be large to allow sand to dry Water
a mix of fresh and saline- to support pioneer species
Abiotic features of salt marshes
Waves – sheltered away from the open sea & destructive waves, usually behind a spit or in sheltered bays
Tidal Range - this is large with occasional flooding. Mudflats need to be exposed to colonise
Elevation – needs variation in height to build up mud flats and stabilise marshes
good + services of coastal ecosystem
Goods- Fish Shellfish + Seaweed for food industrial use -Medicines Land for Building, Farming -Construction Materials: Sand Timber (Mangrove)
services-protection from: Storms Coastal flooding Rising sea levels. Natural Shelter Recreation Leisure opportunities Biodiversity Wildlife habitats
industrial threats for coral reefs
Pollution, overfishing and quarrying of coral for building stone Industrialisation is responsible for the enhanced greenhouse effect
This leads to rising sea temperatures and sea-level rise putting coral reefs under threat Rising sea temperatures increase levels of coral bleaching
industrial threats to mangrove
Pollution, overfishing and deforestation for aquaculture -
Clearance for land development particularly in developing countrie
industrial threats to sand dunes
sand mining
Threats to salt marsh
Industrial pollution Ideal sites for nuclear power stations Clearance for development
commercial and private Development can lead to increased noise and light pollution which may affect wildlife behaviour and nesting