marine bio chapter 4

3 generating forces

Wind, earthquake, landslide

Smallest wind driven waves

Capillary waves or ripples

Longer and faster the wind blows the

Larger the wave

Swells

Are evenly spaced waves with smooth rounded crests and trough

After the waves have moved away from the wind or storm, they formed what

Swells

Earthquakes cause what to happen to sea floor

Large amount of water to be displaced

Landslides are

Ice breaking for a glacier

Tsunami are destructive because

They carry incredible amounts of energy

Fetch

The distance of open water that wind can blow across without changing direction

T/ F waves for more easily in shallow waters than deep

True

Wave height is depended on three factors

Wind speed, fetch, wind duration

Largest wave

40-50 know as the roaring 40s or furious 50s

Wave energy is dissipated when water particles stop moving because of blank

Restoring forces

Restoring forces are

A force that causes the water surface to go back to its undisturbed state

To restoring forces are

Surface tension, gravity

Potential energy comes from the

Height of the wave

Kinetic energy comes from the

Motion of wave particles

Wave carry energy across the sea surface, but they do not blink

Transport water

As the wave energy moves through the water, it moves water particles up and down in the blank blank

Orbital motion

T/F only the energy of the wave continues to move forward

True

Height of a wave

From the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough

Wavelength

Distance from trough to trough or crest to crest

The frequency is

The reciprocal of the wave period

Standing waves are

Waves that do not progress because they form an enclosed bodies of water such as bays and Estuaries

Instead of progressing in One Direction, staining waves oscillate around a single point called blank

Node Where the water stays at roughly the same height

Waves between deep water and shallow water waves are blank

Intermediate waves

Waves forming under the surface are called blank

Internals waves

Rip currents are

Rapid seaward, flowing water and are hazardous to swimmers

Waves are refracted or

Bent as they move from deep water to shallow water

Shallow water waves

Travel water that is less than 1/20th of Their wavelength

Deep water waves

Travel water that is deeper than ½ of its Wave length

If the crest of two waves collide, they add together to produce a higher wave which is called

Wavering Reinforcement