Hair and Scalp Properties Vocabulary Flashcards

A set of vocabulary flashcards covering hair chemical bonds, melanin types, wave patterns, scalp analysis contraindications, hair texture, hair density, and hair porosity.

Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers

Chemical relaxers that break disulfide bonds and convert them to lanthionine bonds, which cannot be reformed.

Thio permanent waves and thio relaxers

Chemical services that break disulfide bonds and reform them using thio neutralizers.

Lanthionine bonds

Bonds created when hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds; these bonds cannot be reformed.

Melanin

The pigment located within the cortex that produces natural hair color and is formed from melanocytes.

Hair color

A two-word term that refers to the hair's natural color.

Haircolor

A single-word term used in the beauty industry to refer to artificial haircoloring products.

Eumelanin

The type of melanin consisting of brown and black pigment, which is the predominant pigment in black and brunette hair.

Pheomelanin

The type of melanin consisting of yellow to red pigment found in natural blonde and red shades of hair.

Gray hair

Hair that grows from the hair bulb with the same structure as pigmented hair but lacks melanin pigment.

Wave pattern

The amount of movement or shape of the hair strand, classified as straight, wavy, curly, or coily.

Straight hair cross-section

Hair strand structure characterized by a round cross-section.

Wavy or curly hair cross-section

Hair strand structure characterized by an oval to round cross-section.

Very curly hair cross-section

Hair strand structure characterized by an elliptical cross-section.

Coily hair

Very curly hair with an elliptical cross-section that is more likely to break between twists and often has coils that mesh together.

Scalp and Hair Analysis contraindications

Communicable or compromised conditions such as cuts, abrasions, tinea, and pediculosis capitis that prevent performing a hair service.

Components of hair analysis

The six elements evaluated during a hair analysis: texture, density, porosity, elasticity, growth patterns, and dryness/oiliness of hair and scalp.

Hair texture

The diameter of an individual hair strand, classified as fine, medium, or coarse.

Fine hair

Hair texture with the smallest diameter; fragile, may process faster during chemical services, requires lower heat during thermal services, and may feel limp or flat.

Medium hair

The most common hair texture with an average diameter; serves as the standard to which other hair textures are compared.

Coarse hair

Hair texture with the largest diameter; may require stronger chemicals, higher thermal temperatures, and can be dry and/or frizzy.

Hair density

The measurement of the number of individual hair strands on $1$\text{ square inch} ($2.5$\text{ square centimeters}) of scalp, classified as low, medium, or high.

Average hair density

Approximately $2,200$\text{ hairs per square inch}, totaling about $100,000$\text{ hairs on the scalp}.

Hair density by color

The average count of scalp hairs categorized by natural color: blonde ($140,000$), brown ($110,000$), black ($108,000$), and red ($80,000$).

Hair porosity

The ability of the hair to absorb moisture, determined by the condition of the cuticle layer and the degree to which its scales are raised.

Low porosity

Hair with a very healthy cuticle where scales lie flat, requiring a more alkaline solution during chemical services to raise the cuticle.

Average porosity

Normal, healthy hair that may have raised cuticle areas and usually processes as expected during chemical services.

High porosity

Overly porous, damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle hair with raised cuticles, requiring less alkaline solutions with a lower pH to prevent further overprocessing.