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What are the two coastal processes?
Marine Processes and Terrestrial processes
What are the four features of constructive waves?
1. Long wavelength
2. Shallow gradient
3. Strong swash
4. Weak backwash
What is hydraulic action?
When waves force air into crevices in a cliff
What is abrasion?
When waves hurl stones at the coast
What is corrosion?
When sea water dissolves the rocks
What is attrition?
When material is worn smoother after colliding with other material
What direction does swash move in?
Parallel to the wind direction
What direction does the backwash move in?
Perpendicular to the coast
What is longshore drift?
When waves move sediment along the coastline
What sort of rocks form bays?
Soft rocks like clay or sandstone
What sort of rocks form headlands?
Hard rocks like chalk
When is a concordant coast formed?
When rock outcrops run parallel to the sea
What is swash?
The forward movement of water when waves hit the coast
What is fetch?
The length and time over which a wave has been blowing
What is weathering?
The breaking up of rocks
What is erosion? What is it caused by?
The wearing away of rocks caused by wind and rain
What is mass movement?
the removal of the cliff face via rockfalls, slumping or landslides, caused by gravity
How is a wave-cut notch formed?
When destructive waves undercut a cliff at its base
How is a cave formed?
When waves attack weak points in the headland, causing an opening to form
How is an arch formed?
When a cave extends to the other side of the headland
How is a stack formed?
When the roof of an arch collapses
How is a stump formed?
When a stack collapses
Where can an example of erosional features be found?
Old Harry's Rocks, Dorset
How is a beach formed?
By the deposition of material by the waves
What are berms?
A series of small ridges on a beach
What is a spit?
A long narrow beach attached to land at one end
How is a spit formed?
By longshore drift depositing material where a coastline changes direction
What is a bar? Give an example.
A spit between two sides of a bay . E.g. Slapton Ley, Southern England
What is the trapped water on the landward side of a bar called?
A lagoon
What is a tombolo? Give an example.
A spit between two landmasses. Chesil Beach, Southern England
What is a cuspate foreland?
A triangular-shaped accumulation of land extending seawards
How is a cuspate foreland formed?
When longshore drift deposits sand coming from two directions
What is a submergent coastline caused by?
A rising sea level
What is a drowned river valley called?
A ria
What is a drowned glacial valley called?
A fjord
What is an emergent coastline caused by?
A falling sea level
What is a raised beach?
Areas of wave-cut platforms and their beaches above sea level
What are the three main human activities on the coast?
1. Human activity
2. Economic development
3. Coastal management
What temperature does coral need to grow at?
Between 23-5 degrees
What is the maximum depth that coral will be found at? Why?
25 metres. Coral needs light to grow.
Why does coral need salt water to grow?
Because it is a marine creature
Why does coral need wave action?
Because coral needs oxygenated water which occurs in areas with strong wave action
Why does sediment harm coral? Give two reasons.
1. Disrupts coral's feeding
2. Reduces the amount of light
Where are salt marshes located?
In the inter-tidal zone, in areas sheltered from the open sea such as the heads of bays and estuaries
What are mudflats?
Areas permanently submerged by water
How do tidal creeks allow salt marshes to gradually extend seawards?
By allowing to drain in and out, slowing down tidal energy which enables silt and mud to be deposited
What is brakish water?
Water that is partially salty and partially fresh
What conditions do sand dunes develop best in? Name three.
1. Wide beach
2. Prevailing wind is onshore (from sea to shore)
3. There are suitable locations for sand to accumulate in
How is an embryo dune formed?
When an accumulation of sand is formed, often around a small obstacle
What are the three manifestations of weathering?
1. Freeze-thaw
2. The growth of vegetation roots
3. The growth of salt crystals
Which marine processes cause a cave to form?
Abrasion and Hydraulic action
Where does a beach form?
Between the storm and low-tide marks
Where are mangroves found?
On the coastline (mostly) within 30 degrees of the equator
What is the purpose of a mangrove's roots?
To take in air and support the rest of the plant
What are 'pioneer species' on a sand dune?
The first plants to grow when a dune is formed
What 4 things do 'pioneer species' have to cope with?
1. High Salinity
2. A lack of moisture
3. Wind
4. Temporary submergence
What is a good?
A specific material resource that can be extracted and used
What is a service?
A general benefit, advantage or opportunity.
What are the values of coral reefs? Name 4.
1. Biodiversity
2. Protection from storms
3. Rich fish stocks
4. Recreational use e.g. snorkelling
How many species of fish are there in the Great Barrier reef?
More than 700
How many species of coral are there in the Great Barrier reef?
More than 1500
How many species of mollusc are there in the Great Barrier reef?
More than 4000
How many tourists visit an area with coral reefs every year?
More than 150 million
How are coral reefs threatened by human activities? Name 4 ways.
1. Contact with the human body kills coral
2. Pollution
3. Overfishing
4. Quarrying of coral for building stone
What percentage of coral reefs worldwide are highly threatened by human activity?
27%
In what way are mangroves useful? Name three.
1. Nurseries of fish and crustaceans
2. Mangrove roots help to create new land
3. Provide protection from storms
How did mangroves provide protection in Sri Lanka the 2004 tsunami?
In a settlement where there were no mangroves, 6,000 died, whereas in another where there were mangroves, only 2 died.
What are the 3 biggest threats to mangroves?
1. Clearing for aquaculture
2. Deforestation for timber
3. Herbicide sprayed for agriculture
What is aquaculture?
The farming of fish and shrimps
What is the habitat of the mangrove called?
The mangal
What is the average population density of Bangladesh?
1000 people/km^2
How many people in Bangladesh live 1 metre above sea-level?
25 million people
What is Bangladesh's Coastal Zone Policy?
Taking advantage of the mangrove's ability to reclaim land by planting mangroves in sediment in the Bay of Bengal
How many hectares of land has Bangladesh gained through the Coastal zone policy?
120,000
What is the mangrove forest called in Bangladesh?
the Sundarbans (meaning beautiful forest)
What are stakeholders?
People with different interests
What is hard engineering?
When a sea defence is built
What is soft engineering?
When natural processes are worked with
What is the purpose of a sea wall?
to protect the coast from the waves by aborbing wave energy
What are the advantages of a sea wall?
Prevents both erosion and flooding (if high enough)
What are the disadvantages of a sea wall? Name 3.
1. Very expensive to build and maintain
2. Obtrusive to look at
3. Increases erosion further up the coast
What is the purpose of groynes?
To trap sediment moved by longshore drift
What is rip rap?
Large boulders piled up on beaches (usually granite)
What is beach replenishment?
When sand is pumped onto a beach to replace eroded material
What does fencing, hedging and replacing vegetation do?
Helps stabilise sand dunes or beaches
What is a sea wall normally made out of?
Concrete
What is cliff regrading?
The angle of a cliff is reduced
What is a particular disadvantage of having groynes?
Starve beaches downstream of sediment, increasing erosion there
What is managed retreat?
Abandoning existing coastal defences and allowing the sea to flood inland
What is the main advantage of groynes?
Slow beach erosion, creating a wide beach
What are the advantages of Rip-rap?
Cheaper than steel walls and do the same job
What is the purpose of beach replenishment?
Beaches absorb wave energy and protect against coastal erosion
What are the advantages of fencing, hedging and replacing vegetation?
Cheap way of protecting the coast
What are the advantages of cliff regrading?
Prevents mass movement
What are the advantages of managed retreat? Name 2.
1. No expensive construction costs
2. Creates salt marshes (valuable habitat)
What are groynes?
Wood or steel piling built at right angles to the coast
What is an example of a tombolo?
Chesil beach, S. England.
What is the main effector in marine processes?
Waves
Where do Terrestrial processes happen?
On land
What are the main marine processes? Name 4.
1. Hydraulic Action
2. Abrasion
3. Corrosion
4. Attrition