GEOL 1345 Oceanography Exam 2 Study Guide

A comprehensive set of flashcards covering key vocabulary and concepts from Chapters 8-11 of the Oceanography course.

Longitudinal Waves

Waves where the particle motion is parallel to the direction of wave propagation.

Transverse Waves

Waves where the particle motion is perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation.

Orbital Waves

Waves that involve both longitudinal and transverse movements, typically observed in the ocean.

Wave Height

The vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave.

Wave Base

The depth below the surface where the circular orbital motion of water becomes negligible.

Wave Steepness

The ratio of wave height to wavelength.

Fetch

The distance over which the wind blows across the water to generate waves.

Swell

Long-wavelength waves that have traveled out from their generating area.

Rogue Wave

A massive, solitary wave that can reach extreme heights.

Tsunami

A series of ocean waves caused by underwater disturbances such as earthquakes.

Spilling Breaker

A type of wave where turbulent water runs down the front slope of the wave as it spills.

Plunging Breaker

A wave characterized by a curling crest that moves over an air pocket.

Surging Breaker

A wave that surges forward without breaking.

Neap Tide

Tides with the lowest tidal range that occur when the sun and moon are at right angles from each other.

Spring Tide

Tides with the highest tidal range that occur when the sun and moon are aligned.

Zenith

The point on the Earth's surface directly beneath the moon.

Nadir

The point on the Earth's surface furthest from the moon.

Centripetal Force

The force that keeps planets in their orbits around the sun.

Ebb Tide

The movement of water away from the shore during low tide.

Flood Tide

The movement of water towards the shore during high tide.

Barycenter

The center of mass around which two or more bodies orbit.

Isostatic Adjustment

The process where the Earth's crust sinks or rises depending on the weight of overlying materials.

Eustatic Sea Level Changes

Changes in sea level worldwide due to variations in seawater volume or ocean basin capacity.

Groin

A structure built perpendicular to the shoreline to trap sand from longshore currents.

Jetty

A structure built perpendicular to the shore to protect an entrance or harbor.

Breakwater

A barrier built parallel to the shore to protect the beach from wave action.

Seawall

A wall built parallel to the shore to protect infrastructure from wave impact.

Salt Marshes

Wetlands found between 30 to 65 degrees latitude that are dominated by herbaceous plants.

Mangroves

Coastal ecosystems found in tropical and subtropical regions, characterized by salt-tolerant trees.

Coastal Wetlands

Rich ecosystems characterized by high levels of organic matter and oxygen-poor muds.

Microplastics

Small plastic particles between 1 and 5 mm in size that accumulate in marine environments.

Bioremediation

The use of microorganisms to remove pollutants, particularly oil, from the environment.

Hydrocarbons

Organic compounds primarily made of carbon and hydrogen, often found in fossil fuels.

Bioaccumulation

The process whereby organisms concentrate substances from their environment in their tissues.

Biomagnification

The process where toxins become more concentrated in the tissues of larger animals as they move up the food chain.

DDT

A pesticide that was widely used in agriculture, banned due to its harmful effects on the environment.

Methylmercury

The toxic form of mercury that accumulates in living organisms.

Tidal Period

The time it takes for a complete cycle of high and low tides to occur.

Constructive Interference

Occurs when waves of the same wavelength align in phase, resulting in increased wave height.

Destructive Interference

Occurs when overlapping waves are out of phase, cancelling each other and reducing wave height.

Mixed Interference

A combination of constructive and destructive interference resulting in a complex wave pattern.

Estuary

A coastal water body where freshwater from rivers meets and mixes with saltwater from the ocean.

Coast

The land along the edge of the sea.

Shoreline

The boundary between land and a body of water.

Foreshore

The area exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide.

Backshore

The area above the high tide line that is only affected by storm waves.

Nearshore

The marine area that extends from the low tide line to the breaker zone.

Offshore

The marine area seaward of the nearshore zone.

Wave-cut Bench

A flat, wave-eroded surface found along coastal areas.

Berm

A dry, gently sloping, elevated margin of a beach.

Beach Face

The wet, sloping surface that extends from the berm to the shoreline.

Longshore Bar

Sandbars formed parallel to the coast by waves and currents.

Longshore Trough

Deeper troughs that separate longshore bars.

Tidal Bulge

The raised area of sea level caused by the gravitational pull of the moon or sun.

Gravity Wave

Waves whose generation is primarily driven by the force of gravity.

Capillary Wave

Small waves generated by surface tension, typically seen on calm water.

Deep-water Waves

Waves that travel in water deeper than half their wavelength.

Shallow-water Waves

Waves that interact with the ocean bottom, influencing their shape and speed.

Transitional Waves

Waves that move through water depths between shallow and deep water.

Wave Period

The time interval between successive wave crests passing a fixed point.

Frequency

The number of waves that pass a given point in one second.

Wave Train

A series of waves that travel together.

Crest

The highest point of a wave.

Trough

The lowest point of a wave.

Wave Direction

The path along which a wave travels.

Sediment Transport

The movement of sediment by wind or water.

Tidal Range

The vertical difference between high tide and low tide.

Biodiversity

The variety of life in a particular habitat or ecosystem.

Ecological Succession

The process by which ecosystems change and develop over time.

Erosion

The process of wearing away rocks and soil by natural forces.

Deposition

The process by which sediments are added to a landform or land mass.

Human Impact

The effect of human activities on the environment and ecosystems.

Pollution

The introduction of harmful substances into the natural environment.

Conservation

The responsible management of natural resources to prevent depletion and destruction.

Coral Reefs

Diverse underwater ecosystems held together by calcium carbonate structures secreted by corals.

Marine Ecosystem

The interaction of marine organisms with each other and their environment.

Photosynthesis

The process by which organisms use sunlight to convert carbon dioxide and water into glucose.

Ocean Currents

Continuous, directed movements of seawater generated by various forces.

Global Warming

The increase in Earth's average surface temperature due to rising levels of greenhouse gases.

Climate Change

Significant and lasting changes in the statistical distribution of weather patterns.

Sustainable Practices

Methods of using resources that do not deplete or permanently damage them.

Marine Reserves

Protected areas of the ocean that are set aside to preserve biodiversity.

Habitat Destruction

The process in which natural habitat is rendered unable to support the species present.

Fisheries Management

The process of regulating and controlling the fish population and fishing activities.

Aquaculture

The cultivation of aquatic organisms in controlled environments for food production.

Ocean Acidification

The decrease in pH of ocean waters caused by the uptake of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.

Nutrient Cycling

The movement and exchange of organic and inorganic matter back into the production of living matter.

Watershed

An area of land that drains all the streams and rainfall to a common outlet.

Ecosystem Services

The benefits people obtain from ecosystems.

Tides

The regular rise and fall of sea level caused by the gravitational forces of the moon and sun.

Moon Phases

The different shapes of the moon as seen from Earth, which depend on the moon's position in relation to the Earth and sun.

Lunar Cycle

The series of phases the moon goes through in about 29.5 days.

Solstice

Either of the two times in the year when the sun reaches its highest or lowest point in the sky at noon.

Equinox

The time or date when the sun crosses the celestial equator, resulting in equal lengths of day and night.

Tidal Force

The gravitational interaction between the moon and the Earth that causes tides.

Gravity

The force that attracts a body toward the center of the Earth or any other physical body having mass.

Oceanography

The study of the ocean and its components.

Marine Biology

The study of living organisms in the ocean.

Biogeochemistry

The study of the chemical, physical, geology, and biological processes and reactions that govern the composition of the natural environment.

Physical Oceanography

The study of the physical conditions and physical processes within the ocean.