Cosmetic Considerations and Application

Applying to the color and texture of the skin

Complexion

Complexion colors vary as a result of the differences in pigment within and under two primary layers of skin:

- Dermis

- Epidermis

Off-white

- Straw colored

Depigmented skin (albinism)

- "White spots or skin discolorations"

- "Localized"

Vitaligo

Yellowish pigment of the skin

Carotene

Brownish pigment of the skin

Melanin

Reddish pigment of the skin

Hemoglobin

Variations occur within each ethnic racial; Classifications:

- Yellowish

- Brownish

- Reddish

Variations within racial groups will be classified as:

- Light

- Medium

- Dark

- Darker

Factors affecting normal complexion:

- Age

- Climate

- Health

- Genetics

Factors affecting abnormal complexion:

- Blood discolorations

- Pigmentary discolorations

- Moisture changes

Skin dulls, grays and becomes courser as texture changes occur during aging

Age

An abundance or lack of sunshine affects melanin concentrations within the skin

Climate

The degree of redness is affected by the quantity of blood in the superficial capillaries (physical condition)

Health

Ethnic and racial conditions affect or skins coloring

Genetics

The escape of blood into the intercellular spaces due to trauma or hypostasis

Blood discolorations

Yellowish to greenish

Jaundice

Bronze

Addison's Disease

Green (various)

Decomposition

Grayish

Formaldehyde Gray

Pink

Fluid burn

Purplish to reddish

Postmortem stain, contusion, brusing

Moisture changes:

- Emaciation

- Dehydration

- Desiccation

Sallow (yellowish or light brown) appearance

Emaciation

- Light to medium browns

- (Yellowing/browning of tissue

Dehydration

Darker browns

Desiccation

Can be crucial for showing changes that occurred from illness, trauma, moisture, and color changes

Photographs

Dated pictures are:

Of little value

Professional portraits:

Aren't reliable

Recent photos in various angles are:

Invaluable for the simplest feature setting to the most major of restorations

Pre-embalming cosmetic considerations:

- Shaving

- Hair

- Infected pores

- Feature setting

- Severe or deep discolorations of face and hands

Dodge's alternative to shave cream:

- 1/2 metaflow

- 1/2 restorative

- Allow to soak

Line of closure indicated by:

2/3 superior palpebrae and 1/3 inferior palpebrae

Severe or deep discolorations of face and hands

- Put massage cream around the affected area to prevent bleaching in undesired places.

- Hypodermically inject phenol into bruises and/or black eyes.

- Injection should be with a very small diameter hypodermic needle.

- Injections should be very superficial.

- Injections are most effective when done prior to embalming.

Cosmetic considerations during embalming:

- Face

- Hands

Face during embalming:

Consideration must be given, and embalming techniques and fluid mixtures employed, that will clear the face of discoloration

Hands during embalming:

- Lower than table level

- Manipulate around each digit

- Manipulate the nailbeds

- Remember to position correctly

Timeline of application post-embalming:

- Camouflage (opaque) cosmetics

- Foundation cosmetics

- Powder

- Blush

- Lip color

- Eye color

- Brows

Red hues:

Warm color areas

White or at least two shades lighter than natural skin tone

Highlight areas

Brown or at least two shades darker than natural skin tone

Shadow areas

Lip color post-embalming:

- Liner color first

- Filter color second

- Shades of brown to "correct"

Eye color post-embalming:

- Shadow first

- Liner second

- Mascara last

- Often more expensive

- Ordered and shipped via vendors (Timely)

- Typically contains a red pigment base

- Critical when attempting to correct jaundice discolorations of yellow and/or green

Mortuary cosmetics

- Often less expensive

- Easy to obtain

- Typically contains a yellow pigment base

- Never to be used on jaundice case

Over-the-counter cosmetics

- Apply before foundation with fingers, stipple brush, or sponge

- Blend and feather the edges to keep camouflage "invisible"

Camouflage

Blue/purple bruising:

Green camouflage

Yellow/greenish bruising:

Purple camouflage

Jaundice discoloration:

"Counterstain" with red based pigments

A good liquid foundation with moisturizers is the best choice on the:

"Normal" case

Can look thick and waxy and therefore less natural:

Cream foundations

Becomes the base that will blend with and carry your highlights, shadows and rouges:

Foundation

Apply cosmetic to the neck as well to avoid:

Line of demarcation

Be sure to eliminate a line of demarcation at the hairline by:

Blending into the hair

Translucent powder can be used to:

"Set" foundation and/or camouflage cosmetics

"Matte" or remove sheen by absorbing any oils or moisture (also can dehydrate)

Powders

Do not apply heavily, a simple ___________ with an ___________ or large powder brush is all you need

Dusting; atomizer

Are usually easier to control and apply than are creams

Powder blushes

Cream powder can:

Give a more natural look

Blush; front plane of cheek below center of eye

Young child

Blush; Halfway between center of eye and lateral canthus

Older child

Blush; Below the lateral canthus

Young or middle-aged adult

Blush; Inferior to older child and barely visible

Elderly adult

A surface lying at a right angle to the source of illumination which reflect the maximum amount of light (lightest, brightest):

Highlight

Surfaces which do not lie at right angles to the source of illumination, or they are obscured by other surfaces and reflect little to no light (darkest, dullest):

Shadow

Purpose of highlight and shadow:

- Replaces normal contrasts erased by funeral lighting and/or opaque cosmetics

- Offers corrective shaping of the face

- Offers emphasis and de-emphasis of features

Warm color areas that are ornamental in the face:

- Lips

- Cheeks

- Ears

- Chin

- Nose

- Forehead (males)

Warm color areas that are natural in the face:

- Lips

- Ears/nose

- Nose/ears

- Cheeks

Warm color areas in the hands:

- Knuckles

- Fingernails

- Cuticles

Lip color; the best application will be from a ___________________, being sure to implement brown, rather than using a single color

Mixture of colors

Lip color; if the color looks "off" add:

A bit of brown

Lip color; Apply with a lip brush and apply in strokes to accentuate the ______________ of the lips

Vertical lines

Lip color, men should have a _________ finish

Matte

Lip color; ladies should have a _________ finish

Gloss

Is only used for "corrective" or "designer" cosmetic application

Lip liner

Eye color is typically a ____________ cosmetic used on women and should be discussed with the family before application

Designer

Can be used for highlighting and shadowing

Neutral and earth tones of eye shadow

A great tool to use on brows and hairlines to add color and/or remove powders and other cosmetics

Mascara

Except in cases of trauma, it is usually not necessary or desirable to apply heavy cosmetics to:

Children

Cosmetizing children; a __________ rather than a lip stick for the mouth

"Stain"

Children, especially infants, have the potential to be ______________ and __________ and heavy cosmetic would be wiped off anyway and would look un-natural

Moved; held

Cosmetizing children; a ___________ could be used if color is needed without coverage

Liquid tint

A __________ is the best choice for men, when the body condition allows it

Liquid tint

Tint contains:

Alcohol and can be dehydrating

A great tint for men is:

"Brunette"

The "art" of successful cosmetic application is making a person:

Look as though they are not wearing cosmetics

The shape of the face and its features can be redefined by the implementation of:

"Corrective cosmetics"

Corrective cosmetics are often in the form of:

Highlight and/or shadow application

When an area of the face is ________________ it appears to be brought forward or emphasized

Highlighted (lightened)

When an area of the face is _____________ it appears to recede or become de-emphasized

Shadowed (darkened)

Can be made to appear thinner or thicker

Lips

Length and width can be altered

Nose

Can be made to appear closer together or farther apart

Eyes

Can be made more or less prominent

Chin

African-American cosmetic consideration; potential problem areas

- Nares

- Nose and buccal cheeks

- Hands

- Integumentary lip

The problem of discoloration/bleaching during embalming becomes an issue that requires _______________ to establish an even skin tone

"Coverage"

Should be practiced on everyone for the most natural appearance to be achieved

Highlight and shadow

- Translucent cosmetics are preferred

- If opaque cosmetics are used, you need to recreate these with cosmetics

Freckles/beauty marks

Tissue build __________ just as you would the face

Hands

Offers a feeling of control in an "uncontrollable" situation

Psychological value