Coasts 10/10 and Waves 10/13

amphidromic system

rotating tidal system within an ocean basin caused by the combination of tide generating forces and the coriollis effect

tidal bore

sudden surge of water traveling up a low gradient river when an incoming tide meets the outgoing river flow

swell

long wavelength, uniform waves that move away from the storm, carrying energy across long distances

swell window

geographic direction from which a coastline can receive swell energy

wave dispersion

process by waves with different wavelengths travel at different speeds, causing by wavelengths waves to move ahead of storms

wave reflection

when a wave strikes an object or barrier, bounces back toward the sea

wave refraction

bending of waves as they enter shallower water, causing them to align more parallel to the shoreline

littoral cell

coastal sediment system that identifies where sediment enters, moves, and exists along a section of shoreline

longshore drift

movement of sediment along a beach caused by waves hitting the shore at an angle

longshore current

current of water moving parallel to the coast within the surf zone, generated by angled wave approach

beach sand budget

balance between sediment input and output on a beach over time