Textiles Exam 1

fiber

def: Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-width ratio possessing suitable characteristics for being processed into a fabric

end use: basic unit in textile yarns and fabrics

textile

Def: any flexible material that is composed of thin films or polymers or of fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made of films, fibers, arms, or fabrics

polymer

a very large molecule made by connecting many small molecules together in a chain

monomer

a molecule that can be bonded to other identical molecules to form a polymer.

molecular arrangement

fibers are composed of many of these chains

physical structure

identified by observing the fiber using a microscope, what the fibers look like

surface contour

The outer surface of the fiber along its length. Smooth, striated, rough. Affects luster, texture, noticeable soiling.

cross-sectional shape

round, dog-bone, triangular, local, multisided, or hollow

- affects lusture, texture

staple

short fibers measured in inches or centimeters

- fibers do not remain parallel

filament

long, continuous fiber strands of indefinite length

- remain parallel

denier

the fineness of yarns, weight of fiber or yarns

- basically diameter

- can be controlled in manufactured fibers

crimp

refers to the waves, bends, twists, coils, and curls along the length of the fiber; traps air within fabric making warmer

- more crimp=better resiliency

amorphous

when chains are arranged in a random or disorganized way

orientation

molecular chains that are parallel to each other and to the fiber's lengthwise axis

cover

the ability of fiber to conceal or protect

- how? shape: crimp and denier

luster

light reflected from fiber surface

how? shape: cross-sectional shape and contour

drape

the manner in which a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D form

how? molecular arrangement and shape: diameter

abrasion resistance

ability to withstand rubbing and folding

how? shape: surface contour and length

tenacity

ability to withstand a heavy pulling force

how? molecular arrangement

elongation

the degree to which a fiber may be stretched without breaking

how? arrangement, shape: crimp

absorbency

ability to take up moisture

- how? molecular arrangement

hydrophilic

love for water/ absorbs

hydrophobic

fear of water/ does not absorb

hygroscopic

absorbent, but moisture is inside the fiber so it doesn't feel wet

wicking

when moisture travels across the surface

resiliency

the ability to bounce back from being wrinkled

-how? arrangement

dimensional stability

ability of a fabric to retain its original size and shape through use and care

-

elasticity

The ability of a material to bounce back after being disturbed

natural fibers

fibers derived entirely from animal or plant sources

cellulosic fibers

Fibers derived from plants.

seed fibers

develop in the seedpod of the plant

ex: cotton, milkweed

bast fibers

come from the stem of the plant, near outer edge

ex. flax, bamboo

common properties of cellulosic fibers

Hydrophilic,

poor resiliency,

good conductor of electricity

flammable

damaged easily by acids but not alkalis

subject to mold/ mildew

may be damaged by insects

leaf fibers

obtained from the leaf of a plant

ex: Abaca

cotton

grows within a pod or boll from developing seeds

end use: t-shirts, towels, money

glucose

the basis monomer of cellulose

boll

the part of the cotton plant that contains the seeds

unique to cotton

Low luster

High tenacity

Good abrasion resistance

Stronger when wet

Poor elastics recovery

Blends well with others

Heat conductive

Poor wicking

Sensitive to dry and sunlight

Not sensitive to high temperatures

cotton linters

the short hairs covering the cotton seed, seen after ginning

- turned into regenerated fibers- rayon

flax

one of the oldest documented textile fibers

aka Linen

end use: summer clothing

bad use: lab coat

retting

a bacterial rotting process to loosen fibers so they can be removed from the stalk

scutching

a process in which bast-fiber plant stems are passed through fluted metal rollers to break up and remove the woody outer layers

Unique to Flax

Like cotton...

•Very high tenacity

•Stronger when wet

•Little sensitivity to heat

Unlike cotton...

•Some luster

•Poor flexibility

•Fair abrasion resistance

•Excellent wicking

hackling

Process used to comb through the hair strands to separate them

protein fibers

animal fibers

- hair/fur not skin

amino acid

Building blocks of protein

wool

protein fiber; made from sheep

end use: rug/carpet, winter clothes

wool types

new wool or fibers reclaimed from scraps

- virgin wool, recycled wool

common properties of Protein Fibers

Good resiliency

Hydrophilic