final final classicsc

why was roman clothing important

• romans attached great important to distinctions in dress

• important to visualizing the social hierarchy

The tunic (men)

worn by all ages and ranks

• simple short-sleeved underdress

tunics with long sleeves were considered

effeminate/barbaric

the toga is a

public display garmet as the tunic was much more comfortable

Fabric of the tunic depended on

ones financial means

wealthy men wore

soft wool or expensive linen

poor men and slaves wore

whatever fabric was available

cloth was

very expensive as all clothing was woven to shape/made to measure

no bolts or lengths of fabric

available for purchase

secondhand clothing dealers existed

the toga

• draping, cumbersome garment made of wool worn only by citizen males

• worn over the tunic

toga could use up to

10 yards of material

senator wore

• lati clavi

• toga praetexta

• calcei

lati clavi

• two wide purple stripes on the shoulder of the tunic

toga praetexta

purple border on the upper edge of the toga

calcei

black or red shoeboots

equites wore

narrow stripes on the tunic

• toga

• gold ring

free men wore

• toga (short or scanty if poor)

why might freeman wear toga

• symbol of roman citizenship

• symbol of peace, civilian life and the toil of the city

• togas were expensive so poor men may not have toga

without toga

men would’ve been worried for being mistaken as an enslaves or not a citizen

roman men canvassing for office wore

• toga witened with chalk

• candidatus (candidate)Tun

Free citizen boys

• tuni

• toga praetexta

• bulla

bulla

bubble shaped pendant as an apotropaic ddevice to indivate he is a citizen

the enslaved wore

a tunic

maybe shabby clothing appropiate to their station

could be fancilt dressed and showily ornamented

clothing indicated

status as well as rank

_____ was a very expensive and status laden colour

purple

the roman matron

• long tunic

• palla

• stola

• fillets or fibbons in hair

palla

cloak or mantle

stola

• slip like garment worn as an overdress suspended from straps

woman have no

sing of rank (borders/stripes), their clothing showed if they were respectable, chatste

Color and fabric made a woman’s

status known

women could _________

dress colourfully but men could not

dye colours

sky blue, yellow orange, brown, purple, golden, dark green, amethyst, pink

luzury fabrics

silk and lininn

silk

is a feminine fabric and men could get made fun of for wearing it

“stiff with gold”

could be woven with gold wire, clothing, so it would make it stiff

Coan silk

transparent fabric

Pale complexion is

sign of status

• meaning you don’t have to leace the house to work so you can stay pale

• done with white lead or chalk dust

problem with white lead or chalk dust

not very long lasting, and ran in the rain and hot weather

makeup for eyes and brows

• kohl

• made of soot, lamp black, ashes

colour for eyes and brows

green and black are known

lip colour in rome

none

cosemetic posions

• White lead is very dangerous

• skin would loose its youthful tone

• terrific ravages of the cosementic posisions meant skin because yucky, so we had to apply more makeup wihcih in turn made the skin worse

complex hairstyles

• indicated social and financial standing

• was a sign of social rank and power

Hair tools

• padding, animal fat, wire frame, hair stitching, wigs, hairpieces, curling tongs

• hair dyes popular

lower class women and hair

• had simpler hairstyles

Bathing in ancient rome is an

integral part of daily life

• multifunctional

bathing in greece

bathing is brief and invigorating

baths in ancient rome

• for leisure and relaxation

wealthy bath

private baths in their townhouse or villa

men bathed

in the afternoon

women bathed in

the morning when the baths had not headted up

4th c CE bathing

thermae in rome

Thermae

large bathing establishments with differently heated rooms

Frigidarium

cold room w/ a plunge bath

Tepidarium

warm room

Caldarium

hot room

thermae were done in a

symmetrical plan all over the empire

Natatio

swimming pool

other rooms in the thermae

sweating rooms, message rooms

vestibules and meeting rooms

apodyterium

change room

Palaestrae

exercise grounds

what happened in the baths

• bathing

• food and drink

• gossip, network, politics

• seen and be seen, make friends and stuff

being clean, leisurely and healthy was a

mark of being roman

roman moralists and bathing

• thought it was effeminizing, sexual indiscretions occur that weaken the spirit

• pick ups and voyeurism

earliest baths

• models on green baths

• hip baths like a small baby pool where water gets poured over you

Balneae

• small indoor baths built by wealthy romans who charged a fee for entrance

• dark, dingy and loacted in dark alleyways

• important for basic hygiene and pleasure

thermae decor

• decoration gradually became fancier in all bathhouses

Pompeii baths

stabian baths — 100 BCE (small and dark)

bathing was not mixed here

clothes and public bathing

• everyone walked around naked all the time

• they had little cubbies, you could bring a slave or pay someone to watch over the clothes

suburbian baths and apodyterium 7

- had numbered boxes for the places to put the clothes

have sex acts painted in the public locker room

Baths of Caracalla

• grandiose (thermae)

• built 212-216 CE

• aqueduct specially built

• bathing block is surrounding by gardens

• colonnaded walkways on 3 sides

• Grounds 297m across

main bath building at Caracalla size

119 × 226

• could accommodate several thousand bathers at once

The athlete mosaics in the baths

• spur on the bathhouse attendees for motivation in being fit and great and stuff

hypocaust system

• heating system in the baths

• floor raised on colums of brick tiles

• pumping air from furnaces into hollow floors

• heated by radiation

• furnace bured wood or charcoal

tubuli

• hollow pipes in the walls

• 100BCE

Baths of caracalla decoration

• little remains today

• floors: mosaic

• black and white, marine themes, colored marble

• main rooms had marble floors

main rooms had

purple columns

frigidarium decor

pools lined in white marble

marble on walls

glass mosaic on floors

caldarium decor

windows and a guilded ceiling

north facade decor

red columns and niches for statues

marbles w glitter in the sunlight

inside decorations

Sanitation and baths

• roman baths would not have met modern hygiene requirements

• olive oil on the surface of the pools, smoke from furnaces, cockroaches, no disinfectants

• no chlorine to disinfect

hadrian

the diseased and healthy bathed together until him

baths would be

drained and scrubbed of lime and defiment

baths could have

cholera and dysentery

Ancient sexual categories

• penetrator and penetrated

• normal and natural to desire a boy or a woman

• no homo—hetero—bisexual

penetrator

• the active partner, the one receiving pleasure

• manly

penetrated

• womanish, servile, emasculated

• submission = no social or political mastery

Sexual activity corresponded to

• gender and social status

• social roles = sexual roles (ideally)

penis repersented

• fertility

• regeneration

• protective function

the phallus could attract

the harmful gaze of the envious/angry human or of demons (the evil eye)

• roman world was thought to be full of demons

apotropaic

• warding off ill chance/evil eye

do penis’ point the way to the brothel

no they are at dangerous places where bad things may happen/dangerous places

Phalluses in entryways

• place of danger as a stumble is considered unlucky

• warning to theives

priapus punishes theives

with penetration

laughter is

apotropaic

erotic painting in houses

• do not differ from those in pubilc spaces

• most found in cubicula

• erotica viewed by everyone

penetrative model celebrated

no penis=no sex