Cosmetics (SAS 1-5)

Cosmetic science

a multidisciplinary applied science that involves the art, science, and business of cosmetics

Commercial science

cosmetic science has been identified as a science that tries to find reasons for selling a product

Comparative Science

cosmetic science has been identified as a science that is based on the fact that many manufacturers compare their own products to other manufacturer’s product and try to convince consumers why buy their products instead of other companies’ products

Traditional science

cosmetic science has been identified as a science that has chemistry and physics where there are hypotheses and scientists try to justify or deny them by performing a number of tests and reactions

Borderline science

cosmetic science has been identified as a science that is a transition among a number of different scientific fields

Cosmetics

are articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting structure or function

European Union (EU)

a country that defines cosmetics as any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body or with the teeth and mucous membranes

Canada

a country that defines cosmetics as any substance used to clean, improve, or change the complexion, skin, hair, nails or teeth including beauty preparations

Japan

a country that defines cosmetics as items with mild action on the human body and which are intended to be applied to the human body by means of rubbing, sprinkling, and the likes for the purpose of cleaning, beautifying, and etc

Drugs

are articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease

Drugs

are articles that is intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals

Organic products

a claim that refers to products containing organic ingredients, also known as natural ingredients

Hypoallergenic products

a claim that refers to produce fewer allergic reactions than other non-hypoallergenic cosmetic products

Cruelty-free products

a claim that could also mean “not tested on animal”

Preservative-free products

a claim that certain products contain ingredients that has a higher percentage of ethanol or has a specific pH value that does not favor the growth of microorganisms

No added preservatives

a claim that means that the product formulators did not add any ingredients to the formulation whose primary function would be preservation

Dermatologist recommended products

a claim that is based on a product survey, and one or many dermatologists could have endorsed the product

Clinically proven claims

a claim that refers to the fact that a product was tested in a clinical environment on humans

Patented formula claims

a claim that is often related to the technology of how the product is manufactured and not the actual effect of the product

pH balanced claims

a claim that wants consumers to believe that the products will be less irritating and will work better

Solution

the simplest type of formulation which is a clear, homogeneous liquid dosage form that contains one or more chemical substances dissolved in a solvent or a mixture of mutually miscible solvents

Water-based solution

solutions that contain water as the vehicle which includes eye makeup remover, hand soap, and many shampoos

Hydroalcoholic solutions

solutions that contain a mixture of water and alcohol as the vehicle which includes hair spray, mouthwash, aftershave cologne, and facial toner

Anhydrous solutions

solutions that contain ingredients other than water as a vehicle which includes base coat or nail polish remover, bath oils, or prewaxing oils

Emulsion

consists of a two-phase system comprised of at least two immiscible liquids, one of which is dispersed as droplets within the other liquid

Emulsion

it has a unique texture and provide a nice skin feel and are used as vehicles to deliver both hydrophilic and hydrophobic ingredients

O/W emulsions

are chosen for applications that require a relatively small amount of fatty materials such as for hair conditioners, shaving cream, or facial moisturizing creams

W/O emulsions

are preferred when a larger amount of oil is desired in the formulation and are greasier, leave a long-lasting residue, and are more water-resistant

Water-in-silicon (W/Si) emulsions

a formulation that provide a unique, nongreasy skin feel and has a quick drying effect, leaving the skin smooth; examples are facial foundations, cream eye shadow, and certain sunscreens

Water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions

is a complex type of formulation and are basically an emulsion in an emulsion

Lotions

are low-viscosity (thin) emulsions behaving as liquids and designed to be applied without heavy rubbing

Lotions

contains a higher amount of water in the continuous phase than creams and are less greasy and easily washable

Creams

are high-viscosity (thicker) semi-solid emulsions and contains >20% water and volatiles or <50% hydrocarbons, waxes, or polyols as vehicles

Creams

a type of emulsion that does not flow readily and can be packed into a jar or tube for dispensing

Suspension

a dosage form for delivering insoluble solid ingredients in a liquid medium

Ointment

are super thick semi-solid products compared to lotions or creams and contain <20% water and >50% hydrocarbons as vehicles

Ointment

it is typically used for protection or as mediated skin products; it has a less aesthetic appeal for skin care since it is oily, waxy, greasy, sticky, tacky, and heavy

Paste

are very thick semisolid formulations that are difficult to apply and spread over the skin surface due to their high solid content

Paste

a semisolid dosage form that contains a large proportion (20-50%) of solids finely dispersed in a fatty vehicle

Gel

is a semisolid dosage form that contains a gelling agent to provide stiffness to a solution or colloidal dispersion

Gel

a dosage form similar to thickeners that increases viscosity and provide a complex internal structure

Powder

is an intimate mixture of dry, finely divided chemicals

Loose powder

are freely flowing mixtures of different dry solid chemicals

Bath salts

are usually grittier and have a large particle size than other loose powders

Pressed powders

are made of a blend of freely flowing powders via compression

Capsule

a solid dosage for, consisting of a shell and a filling and may be made from gelatin, starch, or cellulose

Stick

is a dosage form prepared in a relatively long and slender, often cylindrical form

Aerosol

is a product that is packaged under pressure and contains various ingredients that are released upon activation of an appropriate valve system

Target groups

a specific group of customers at whom a cosmetic product or quasi-drug product is aimed

Dosage forms

the final physical form of a mixture of ingredients that consumers can take in their hands, purchase, and use

Application surfaces

a body surface to which cosmetics or quasi-drug products are applied

Abrasives

an ingredient that is capable of polishing or cleaning a harder surface by rubbing or grinding

Abrasives

it provides an exfoliating effect which help rub off and peel the outer layer of the skin

Antioxidants

provide protection against oxidative reactions and is generally utilized to provide stability, as well as slow down skin aging

Chelating agents

are molecules with a specific three-dimensional structure that are able to complex with metal ions

Chelating agents

helps stabilize cosmetics and prevent deterioration by catching (sequestering) metal ions

Color additives

any material that is a dye, pigment, or other substance when added or applied to a food, drug, or cosmetic, is capable of imparting a color

Dye

a chemical compound that is soluble in the particular solvent in which it is dipersed

Pigment

a component that is insoluble in the particular solvent in which it is dispersed

Lake

a water-insoluble pigment formed by chemically reacting dyes with a substratum

Flavoring agents

the sensory impression of food or other substance and is determined by the texture, taste, and smell of a product

Fragrances

are natural or synthetic compounds with a characteristic smell that are added to cosmetics to create an aesthetic impression for consumers

Fragrances

can also be added to mask the undesirable odor of the raw ingredients and have a lower perfume content

Perfumes

are hydroalcoholic solutions with a high fragrance content sprayed on the skin to transit a pleasant redolence to the user

Moisturizers

an umbrella term used to describe ingredients that add moisture to the skin and help retain moisture in the skin

Moisturizers

makes the skin feel softer and smoother and reduce roughness, cracking, and irritation

Humectants

are hygroscopic ingredients that contribute to skin hydration by drawing water from the deeper layers of the epidermis and dermis to the outer layer of the skin

Emollients

replenish oils and lipids in the skin and soften and smooth the skin by filling void spaces on the skin surface and replacing lost lipids in the SC

Occlusives

are hydrophobic in nature and form a water-repellent layer over the skin; it physically blocks or retards water loss through the skin

Enhancers of the skin barrier

also called skin rejuvenators that help restore, protect, and enhance the skin’s barrier function

Enhancers of the skin barrier

it creates a film over the skin surface that aesthetically smoothens the skin and stretches out fine lines

pH buffers

can change the cosmetics and quasi-drug formulations

Plasticizers

are ingredients that can soften films and impart flexibility to films

Preservatives

are used to prevent undesirable growth of molds, yeast, and bacteria in liquid, semisolid, and powder products

Propellants

are added to aerosol formulations to maintain a suitable pressure within the aerosol can and expel the content of the container when the valve is open

Solvents

are typically liquids used to dissolve solid ingredients, mix with liquids, provide a vehicle for formulations and contribute to the texture of products

Polar solvents

contain strong dipolar molecules and exhibit hydrogen-bonding properties

Semi-polar solvents

are made up of strong dipolar molecules however, it does not form hydrogen bonds

Non-polar solvents

contain molecules that have only a small or no dipolar character

Anionic surfactants

are typically utilized for foaming and excellent cleaning properties

Cationic surfactants

contain a positive charge in their hydrophilic head and represent the most powerful conditioning agents for the skin and hair

Amphoteric surfactants

have both a negative and a positive charge in their hydrophilic head and are able to stabilize and induce foam formation

Nonionic surfactants

do not dissociate into ions and their hydrophilic heads does not carry any charge

Sweeteners

provide a sweet flavor and contribute to product acceptance in cosmetics and quasi-drug products that come into direct contact with the taste buds

True sweeteners

also known as no-calorie sweeteners

Thickeners

are ingredients that can increase the viscosity of cosmetics and quasi-drug products and can act as suspending agents

Active ingredients

deliver the claimed therapeutic action and have an effect on the human body

OTC monographs

can be described as a ‘recipe book’ that tells formulators what ingredients and in what concentrations can be used

Skin

the largest sensory and contact organ in the human body with a surface area 1.5-2m

Epidermis

the outer layer of the skin that functions as a protective layer against external influences

Stratum corneum

known as the horny layer and is made up of the dead cells that continuous shed and are replaced by cells in the adjacent layer

Stratum corneum

it contains 15-30 layers of dead cells

Stratum lucidum

the translucent or clear layer and contains 3-5 rows of densely packed flat dead cells

Stratum granulosum

the granular layer that consists of 3-5 layers of flattened keratinocytes that begin to die

Stratum spinosum

the prickle cell layer containing 8-10 rows of cells and is responsible for lipid and protein synthesis

Stratum basale

also known as stratum germinativum or the basal cell layer and is made up of a single layer of cells

Stratum basale

the layer where cells divide continuously to form new keratinocytes

Stratum corneum

is a natural barrier often referred to as the “brick and mortar” structure

Corneocytes

a tightly packed, water-resistant dead cells that makes up the SC

Intercellular lamellar lipids

a complex lipid material where corneocytes are embedded in and is mainly made up of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids