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foraging
Horses will spend up to 16 hrs per day foraging
This helps create saliva and decrease chances of gastrointestinal ulceration and unhealthy microbiome
Choosing the proper forage for our horses will depend on their age, exercise level, BCS, and health
When choosing the forage, we should check for muscle loss (topline), signs of digestive health issues, coat/skin/hoof problems, and overall attitude
Grasses Nutritional Value
Horses should be grazing constantly throughout the day, which is better achieved using a grass forage. Legumes are highly palatable, which can cause horses to rapidly consume it, and then go long periods not foraging
Grasses are lower in calories and protein than legumes, BUT have a higher fibre content
Fresh grasses will always have higher vitamin content compared to dried hay
This higher fibre content aids in gut fill, contributing to a safe and warm environment for "healthy" bacteria to live and produce essential vitamins
This all makes it a good source of forage for:
Easy keepers
Horses in stalls (better enrichment and prolonged consumption)
Overall gut health
Grasses – General Characteristics
Grasses all have narrow leaves with parallel veins and small, inconspicuous flowers
Their stems are usually round with visible bulges where the leaves attach (called nodes)
They are hollow except for at the nodes
Each grass will vary in the width of their blades, and whether their blades are sharp-tipped, rounded, or boat-shaped
Simple sugars are highest in the bottom of the plant
Types of Grasses (List)
Smooth Bromegrass
Timothy
Meadow Bromegrass
Crested Wheatgrass
Tall Fescue
Orchard Grass
Meadow Foxtail
Creeping Red Fescue
Kentucky Bluegrass
Quack Grass
Types of Grasses – Timothy
Very common!
The only grass with a bulb on the root (called a corn), where it stores food reserves
Better suited in hay than as pasture
A cool season perennial grass with rapid growth
This means it doesn't do well in areas of excessive heat or drought-like conditions
Types of Grasses – Orchard Grass
Very common in hay or pasture mixes for all animals!
Good pasture grass
Soft leaves so is palatable
Has multiple height growing points, allowing it to regrow faster after cutting or grazing
Also a cool season bunch grass
Types of Grasses – Bromegrass
Has large seeds, and is expensive to seed because it's not a good seed producer
This makes it less common to find in horse pastures
Its pubescent leaves have a fuzzy appearance
Types of Grasses – Meadow Foxtail
May get confused with timothy depending on what stage of growth it is in
The foxtail seed head may droop over, which can immediately confirm it's NOT timothy
Tolerant of many soil types but prefers clay-based soils
Known to invade pasture lands
NOT toxic but can be troublesome; the seed heads contain barbs that can lead to mouth or eye ulcers; risk working their way through tissues and cause infections
Types of Legumes (List)
Alfalfa
White Clover (Wild, White Dutch, Ladino)
Alsike Clover
Red Clover
Cicer Milkvetch
Birdsfoot Trefoil
Sainfoin
Sweet Clover
Types of Legumes – Alfalfa
Alfalfa types all have high protein and high yields
Alfalfa is a drought-tolerant invader, because it has a deep root system
Highest in protein just prior to the bloom, however when it matures, the leaves are still high in quality
Alfalfa, as a whole plant, is less palatable than grass
Types of Legumes – Clover
Many different types!
Alsike clover is NOT to be consumed by horses as it can cause photosensitization, liver problems, and vesicles to appear in the mouth
Red clover is very succulent, therefore doesn't dry well = a poor hay choice
White clover is palatable and high in protein. It can withstand close grazing, so is commonly found in overgrazed pastures
Alsike Clover – Identification
Alsike Clover: No white "V" on the leaf
Good clover (with white "V") vs. Bad clover (Alsike, no white "V")
Making Hay
Hay is created by cutting grasses/legumes, crimping, raking/drying them, and then baling
Each stage is very important to ensure the moisture content is low enough to be baled safely
Standing, the moisture content is around 75% (Wright, 2004)
Small square bales need to be dried to at least 15% or lower; if going into a round bale, it needs to be lower than 13%
This is usually done by air drying, which takes roughly 3-5 days
If not dried, the risk of accumulating dust is very high. Dust has three different sources:
Leaf Shatter Dust - very leafy and dry hay
Soil - dirt splashed onto the cut hay during a rainfall
Molds - molds and fungi growing on hay while it's cut (i.e., high humidity) or after it's baled (heated in densely packed bales)
What If It Never Dries?! (Part 1)
During a wet season, it's not uncommon for hay producers to look for an alternative option
Haylage or preservative-treated hay can be given to horses, and used by producers during these unpredictable weather conditions
Haylage involves cutting young, lush plants and only removing moisture to about 45%. They then eliminate O2 contact by placing it in a silo or plastic bag; this causes fermentation and pH to drop below 5
This low pH prevents bacteria/fungi from growing until air enters the bag/container
Baling it too dry (say 25%) causes incomplete fermentation and high pH levels, which increases the risk of bacteria and possibly deadly toxins (botulism)
Treated hay involves using a commercially available product to inhibit mold. These can cause corrosion to equipment, and when offering either to horses, horses do prefer the dry hay over processed hay
Disadvantages of wheat not drying
There are still many unanswered questions about feeding these alternatives to horses, including:
Long-term effects of acidic preservative on hay
Increased risk of colic, especially if frozen haylage is used
Increased risk of handling problems
Heavier
Require different bale spears
Less visibly "bad" appearance
Highly suggest all horses are given a Botulism vaccine