Textiles & Fashion Lecture Review

A comprehensive set of vocabulary flashcards covering historical swimwear evolution, Japanese textile traditions, Akira Isogawa’s design practice, fibre innovations, fabric structures, dyeing and printing techniques, and industry trends.

Modesty (1900s Swimwear)

Social norm requiring women to wear heavy wool suits with stockings and lead weights, keeping the body fully covered at the beach.

Annette Kellerman

Australian swimmer who, in 1910, promoted swimming for exercise and was arrested for wearing a one-piece ‘male’ swimsuit, sparking reform in women’s swimwear.

Swimwear Police (1920s)

Officials who patrolled beaches to measure suit length and enforce modesty regulations on women’s swimwear.

Louis Réard

French engineer who introduced the bikini in 1946, initially scandalous but later a symbol of body freedom.

Women’s Liberation (1960s Swimwear)

Movement that encouraged more revealing beachwear, celebrating female body autonomy and freedom of dress.

Slip-Slop-Slap Campaign

1980s Australian public-health message promoting sun-safe behaviour: slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen, slap on a hat.

Rash Shirt

Close-fitting top made of UV-protective fabric, popular from the 1980s to reduce sun exposure while swimming or surfing.

Fastskin Suit

High-tech Olympic racing suit (2000) that mimicked sharkskin; later banned for offering unfair performance advantage.

Burqini

Modest, culturally sensitive full-coverage swimwear blending ‘burqa’ and ‘bikini’, popularised in the 2000s.

Nylon

Synthetic fibre invented in 1935; strong, quick-drying, non-absorbent, replacing wool in post-WWII swimwear.

Lycra (Spandex/Elastane)

Elastic fibre (1958) added at ~5 % to fabrics, providing stretch and recovery, eliminating need for zippers in swimwear.

Synthetic Dyes

Colourants formulated for man-made fibres, providing superior colourfastness and a wider colour range.

Sublimation Printing

Heat-pressure process that turns dye into gas, bonding it to synthetic fabric for vibrant, wash-fast swimwear prints.

Post-WWII Labour Shortage (Japan)

Economic factor that raised production costs and increased reliance on imported Chinese textiles.

Sericulture

Cultivation of silkworms for silk production, historically reserved for Japanese royalty and elite.

Shinto

Nature-revering Japanese religion influencing textile motifs of flora and fauna.

Indigo

Blue dye plant suited to Japan’s mountainous terrain; key to traditional shibori and samurai garments.

Shibori

Manual resist-dye technique (tie, stitch, fold, clamp) producing intricate indigo patterns on fabric.

Ukiyo-e

Japanese woodblock prints portraying everyday life and nature; inspired kimono patterns.

Shishu

Japanese silk embroidery used in religious garments and artistic textiles.

Boro

Patch-and-repair technique using sashiko stitching to extend fabric life; utilitarian aesthetic.

Ikat

Yarn-tie resist-dyeing method creating characteristic blurry patterns once woven.

Kimono

Traditional T-shaped Japanese robe reflecting status, season, and occasion.

Obi

Wide decorative belt that secures a kimono and can be tied in various styles.

Furisode

Long-sleeved kimono worn by unmarried women, symbolising youth and elegance.

Tomesode

Short-sleeved kimono worn by married women, often featuring formal family crests.

Harajuku Fashion

Contemporary Japanese street style mixing traditional elements with bold colours and prints.

Akira Isogawa

Kyoto-born, Sydney-based designer famed for ‘east meets west’ collections and use of vintage kimono fabrics.

Slow Fashion

Design philosophy emphasising longevity, craftsmanship, and environmental responsibility, championed by Isogawa.

STEEP Analysis

Framework assessing Social, Technological, Economic, Ecological, and Political factors affecting a designer’s success.

Microfibre

Synthetic fibre finer than 1 denier, resulting in soft, lightweight, highly absorbent fabrics.

Bicomponent Yarn

Filament containing two polymers (side-by-side or core-sheath) to add crimp, stretch, or bonding ability.

Washable Web (Non-woven)

Fabric made by bonding fibres directly without yarn; inexpensive, crease-resistant, and doesn’t fray.

GORE-TEX

Microporous PTFE membrane that is waterproof yet breathable, used in outdoor apparel and medical implants.

Bamboo Fibre

Regenerated cellulosic fibre from bamboo pulp; soft, breathable, antimicrobial, and biodegradable.

Teflon Finish

Soil-resistant chemical treatment that repels oil, water, and stains without altering fabric hand.

Trevira CS

Permanently flame-retardant polyester fibre used in contract textiles like curtains and upholstery.

Plain Weave

Simplest over-one-under-one weave producing flat, strong fabric ideal for printing.

Twill Weave

Diagonal-rib weave (e.g., denim) offering strength, drape, and good abrasion resistance.

Satin Weave

Weave with long floats creating high lustre and smooth surface but lower durability.

Single Jersey Knit

Weft knit with distinct face and back; stretchy widthwise but prone to laddering lengthwise.

Raschel Knit

Warp knit capable of complex lace or mesh structures, stable and often used in lingerie.

Crepe Yarn

High-twist yarn producing a crinkled texture and lively drape in fabrics.

Bouclé Yarn

Fancy yarn with loops and curls, adding texture and visual interest.

Non-woven Fabric

Material made by bonding or felting fibres, bypassing yarn formation; used for interlinings, wipes, filters.

Wetting Out (Dyeing)

First dyeing stage where fibres swell, allowing uniform dye penetration.

Migration Stage

Phase in dyeing where dye molecules move from solution to fibre surface before diffusion.

Anchoring (Mordanting)

Closing of swollen fibres and chemical fixation that locks dye permanently into the fibre.

Pre-fibre Dyeing (Solution Dyeing)

Adding colour to polymer before extrusion, giving permanent, fade-resistant colour.

Yarn Dyeing

Colouring yarns after spinning, enabling checks, stripes, and jacquard patterns.

Product Dyeing

Dyeing the finished garment, offering quick response to trends but risk of uneven seams.

Mordant

Chemical, often a metal salt, that forms a dye-fibre bond, improving colourfastness.

Block Printing

Hand technique using carved wooden blocks to stamp dye paste onto fabric, producing artisanal designs.

Roller Printing

Industrial method where engraved cylinders continuously print fabric; ideal for large runs.

Warp Printing

Printing on warp yarns before weaving to achieve soft, blurred patterns (e.g., ikat-like effects).

Batik

Resist printing using wax to block areas before dyeing, creating distinctive crackled patterns.

Hand Screen Printing

Manual process where a stencil screen and squeegee apply each colour onto fabric.

Rotary Screen Printing

Continuous roller-based screen printing allowing high-speed production with fine detail.

Digital Textile Printing

Inkjet method controlled by CAD, enabling short-run, multi-colour, eco-friendly fabric prints.

Embroidery

Decorative stitching on fabric, executed by hand or automated machines using digitised designs.

Appliqué

Technique of stitching cut-out fabric shapes onto a base cloth to create patterns or images.

CAD (Computer-Aided Design)

Software that lets designers create, modify, and store fashion illustrations or patterns digitally.

CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacture)

Automated machinery guided by computer data to cut, sew, or knit textiles with speed and accuracy.

Sun-safe Clothing

Garments engineered (tight weaves, dark colours, UV-resistant fabrics) to shield skin from ultraviolet radiation.

Organic Cotton

Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilisers, or GMOs, reducing environmental impact.

Activewear Trend

Consumer shift toward wearing athletic apparel as everyday streetwear, driving demand for functional fashion.

Mass Production

Large-scale automated manufacturing producing high volumes of standardised garments at low unit cost.

Niche Market Product

Textile item tailored to a specialised audience, produced in low volume with higher unit cost.

Slow Fashion Advocate

Designer or movement promoting ethical production, quality materials, and longevity over fast-turnover trends.

Side-by-Side Bicomponent

Bicomponent filament where two polymers lie adjacent, creating self-crimp when one shrinks.

Core-Sheath Bicomponent

Filament with one polymer forming the core and another forming the outer sheath, altering surface properties.

Sashiko

Japanese running-stitch embroidery used for reinforcing and decorating boro textiles.

East Meets West Aesthetic

Fusion design style combining Eastern heritage techniques with Western silhouettes, exemplified by Akira Isogawa.

Australian Fashion Week

Annual event in Sydney where designers like Isogawa showcase collections to local and international buyers.

Slip, Slop, Slap

Public health slogan encouraging protective clothing, sunscreen, and hats to combat skin cancer.