hanbok

four symbols

white/south, blue/east, yellow/center, black/north, red/west

origin of hanbok:

sewing, yarn making, weaving

where did the people of the korean peninsula come from?

population inbreeding, movement through steppe region, settling because of climate --> systems develop --> evolve with power dynamics

early clothing function

protect the body

costume?

ensembles of clothing in specific manner/style

clothing?

apparel and accessories

dress

to wear, cover, modify the body MOST INCLUSIVE TERM

korean aesthetics are..

simple, bold, humorous, and lively

chinese aesthetics are..

majestic, grand, perfection-oriented

japanese aesthetics are..

compact, formal, delicate

how were colors traditionally produced?

through dyes and pigments

what major theory influences east asian color ideas?

yin yang and five elements

Which korean kingdom did the ying yang and five elements theory spread to?

Goguryeo

three requirements for human life

food, shelter, dress

traditional color palette?

softer and natural colors

east asian vs western european dress

east asian: loose fitting and practical

western: tight fitting and performative

What does the blue dragon represent?

Wood and from the east

What does the white tiger represent?

Metal and from the south

What does the vermillion bird represent?

Fire and from the west

What does the black tortoise represent?

water and from the north

What does the yellow dragon represent?

earth and from the center

What structural difference is hinted at between Western and East Asian dress?

East Asian dress is more flat-cut and structure-based, while Western dress is more body-shaped/3D-oriented.

What is one major external hanbok issue discussed in the slides?

China's culture project and the rewriting/claiming of cultural history.

What is one major internal issue in Hanbok culture?

Lack of education and the clash between tradition and fashion.

According to the slides, what leads from internal issues to external issues?

Lack of education → insufficient information → misinterpretation.

the current idea of "traditional Hanbok" mainly reflect what period of time?

Post-emancipation style after 1945.

What older skills is the orgin of Hanbok connected to?

Sewing, yarn making, weaving

What is the earliest evidence related to clothing production in Korea?

Bone needles and spindles from the Neolithic period

About when was Paleolithic occupation on the Korean Peninsula?

Around 40,000 BC.

What came before the ancient kingdoms on the Korean Peninsula?

Tribal states

What were major ancient Korean kingdoms mentioned?

Goguryeo, Shilla, Baekje, and Gaya.

How long did Goryeo last?

500 years

How long did Joseon last?

About 600 years

where did the people of the Korean Peninsula come from?

population admixture and migration.

What groups are mentioned in the lecture on population admixture?

Han Chinese, Japanese, and Korean populations

What was the migration path?

Steppe region --> Korean Peninsula --> Japanese archipelago

Why did more people settle and develop systems over time?

Because climate, settlement, and power dynamics shaped how societies evolved.

If little clothing survives, where do many early clothing descriptions come from?

Ancient Chinese literature.

What was the earliest function of dress?

bodily protection

What hairstyle was associated with Gojoseon in early records?

Bun-up hairdo

How was Gojoseon clothing described in Chinese records?

"barbaric clothing"

How was Buyeo clothing described?

White clothing, wide-sleeved robe and pants, leather shoes.

What luxury materials or accessories were associated with Buyeo?

Brocade, wool, gold belts, and silver belts

How was Dongye described?

Similar to Goguryeo, with rounded collars, and known for producing silk.

How was Samhan described?

Bun-up hairdo, straw shoes, silk, and clean people.

What did Samhan reportedly prefer over gold and silver?

Beads

What is an important caution when using early Chinese records about Korea?

The records may be biased because they were written from a Chinese centralist perpective.

What does "Ho" mean?

A slur for "outer barbarians"

What is Cino-centralism?

A worldview that places China at the cultural center and labels surrounding peoples as outsiders or barbarians.

What is flat-cut structure?

Clothing made from straight fabric pieces using selvedge and straight lines, without relying on body-shaped curves.

What is tailored structure?

Clothing shaped to the body using seams, darts, curves, and close fit.

What does selvedge mean in flat construction?

The finished edge of the woven fabric used efficiently in pattern cutting.

Why flat structure matters in hanbok?

reduces waste, simpler to make, reflects East Asian aesthetics

Practical advantage of flat cut clothing?

Efficient use of fabric with less waste

One construction advantage of flat cut clothing

Easier linear pattern making

Aesthetic advantage of flat cut clothing?

Clean lines and structured simplicity

How does East Asian dress usually cut fabric?

Straight cuts from selvedge

How does East Asian clothing usually form its silhouette?

Through movement, wrapping, layering, and tying.

How does Western clothing usually form its silhouette?

Through tailoring, seams, structure, and body-shaped fit.

Which has more material waste: East Asian flat-cut or Western tailored clothing?

Western tailored clothing

Examples of East Asian garments

Kimono (japan), jeogori (korea), qipao (china)

Examples of Western garments

Suit jackets and fitted gowns

What are the main basic clothing items in Hanbok?

Headdress, shirt/top, pants, skirt, trimmings, belts, and shoes

What is jeogori?

The top or jacket

What is baji?

Pants

What is chima?

Skirt

What are the three shoe-related terms?

Hwa, Yi, and Hye.

Git

Collar/neckline of jeogori

dongjeong

White collar strip/collar liner

somae?

Sleeve

seop?

Overlapping front panel

goreum?

Tie ribbons or straps

Doryeon

Hemline

collar/neckline variations

V-neck, U-neck, square neck, round/crew style

jik-ryeong?

V neck

dan-ryeong?

U neck

bang-ryeong?

Square neck

gok-ryeong?

Round neck

Ban-ryeong?

Crew neck

What are the main front closure types?

Pull over, center closure, wrap closure, left closure, right closure

gwondui

Pull-over tunic with no closure.

hapim

center closure

gyoim

wrap closure

jwaim?

left closure

uim?

right closure

closure associated with East Asia

Wrap closure

closure associated with agrarian Han Chinese fashion

Right closure

closure associated with Eurasian nomadic fashion

left closure

What are the main hairstyles?

laid down natural hair, tied up, updos, and shaved for monks

Tied up hairstyles

low tail, low bun, twin tail

Married men's hairstyle called..

Sangtu

Married women often used what in their hairstyles

hairpieces

Which religious group is associated with shaved hairstyles?

monks

Gwan mo

headdress

Mo

head covering

Gwan

ceremonial headpiece

Gun

soft hat/head wrap

Hwa

boots

Hye

formal shoes

Jip sin

glass slippers