HIST of Italian Fashion midterm

• Costumes are replicas of the past, that stays primarily the same, like the Roman Toga.

• Fashion evolves rapidly to communicate a message about the social climate. Examples are silhouettes being reinterpreted from the early 20th century on the runway today

How can u differentiate between fashion and costumes? Example?

1. Elegant evening attire, that was comfortable

Allowing clients to be more independent with corsetless designs and styles, like the cocktail dress

2. The start of ready to wear markets that focused on more accessibility, rather than one of a kind

3. Standout materials

Known for leather

Fascist mandated textiles, like Andora Wool

Examples of ways Italy established an Italian presence albeit the hegemonic Parsian influence?

Sewing machine, and artificial textile dyes

Big innovations for the Ready to Wear market in the 1800s?

The first step towards ‘ready to wear’ and accessible fashion. They mimicked department shops, with the quantities and prices

What was the significance of opening the Magasin de Nouveautes in France in the 1850s?

Haute Couture: custom made, exclusive styles. Customers didn’t have any control

What market did Charles Frederck Worth influence?

icon of haute couture - Marchesa Luisa Casati - who was one of the first clients of Charles Frederick Worth

Who dat and what was the impact?

• Corsetless dresses - Fluidity (orientalism designs)

• Licensing perfumes

• Publicizing designs in fashion magazines intentionally

• Home division and interiors —> if they like my clothing designs, they’ll like my home designs

Important stand outs of Paul Poiret?

They critiqued materialism and impractical garments, like corsets, and promoted workwear

How did fashion magazines respond to the shift in womans wear during WW1?

• Shorter hemline and less material usage

• Shift to practical and comfortable garments

Pants, “the Suit”

• Using more silk then heavier fabrics

• Shaving legs and cutting hair

Changes in Italian women’s fashion and beauty standards during the WW1?

Balenciaga

What fashion designer experimented with the baby doll silhouettes, and very loose, drapy styles

• Chemise dresses

• Shorter hair

• Cloche hats

• Make up 

• Beading and sequencing flapper dresses

Key elements from the era depicted in the picture

She recognized the shift in what women wanted

• Simplistic, functional clothes

• Elegant but comfortable

• Empowerment with the LBD

How did Chanel gain momentum during the war?

Elsa Schiaparelli and it pioneered the “Tromp O’leil’ effect and exploring illusions in fashion 

Who was known for this signature sweater and why was it important?

 Good things to come, maximalism, bringing back a transformed version of femininity. Same emphasis on woman’s figure. Post war splurging

What did Dior’s new look symbolize?

Marc Boussac

Who is the textile manufacturer behind the extravagance and extreme fabric usage of Dior’s new look? 

• Dior’s bar suit / new look

• Bustle skirt (reinvented crinoline)

• Popularized licensing

Dior’s innovation to the industry?

1945-46 exhibition that featured life like dolls, resembling mannequins that would travel to raise funds during the war for the Paris fashion industry

What is the Theatre de la mode

He used their notable prints, materials and craftmanship to explore different markets, like airlines, and sculptured dresses with geometric shapes that were a very EXCLUSIVE artistic product

What are the innovations that made Pucci special (60s)

Thayaht, a Futurist from the 1920s. It was one of the first proposals of a genderless garment, designed to be unrestrictive and accessible.

Who created the TuTa and why was it signifgant for the time?

Roberta di Camino

• Rosa Genoni

Using Italian art and heritage to develop natural fitting silhouettes, like the draping Tanagra dress, and inspiring Italian women to depend on themselves, not the French

• Futurists, like Giacomo Balla

Italian independence and unrestrictive fashion through asymmetry, bold colors, and more creativity

Two designers that contributed to establishing a fashion presence in Italy and how?

• Creation of the Ente Nazionale Della Moda, a governmental entity that controlled the materials used to produce clothes

• Pressured Italians to buy domestically

• Developed an Italian style, and the New Italian Women that was focused in motherhood showed off their heritage by dressing appropriately

What were some innovations under Mousseline to create a national identity?

 Sorella Fontana - designs custom made for movies and featuring Italy’s natural beauty in advertisements

Prominent fashion designers that boosted Italy’s post war economy

Using bamboo for his bags handles as a result of the scarcity after the war

What is an example of Gucci’s resourcefulness and creativity?

Gucci

whose signature floral print is this

Emilio Pucci

Who experimented with pleats, comfortable sportswear, intricate/art inspired dresses and ecclectic prints.

Got famous for designing looks for the famous fashion show by Giambattista Giorgini

Fendi - started in the 1920s

What is this famous bag?