Textile Exam 7

pretreatment

-routine finish

-restore fabrics after dyeing, printing, or finishing processes

aesthetic finishes

-routine finish

-modify the appearance and/or hand or drape of fabrics

functional finishes

-routine finish

-improve the performance properties of fabrics

final finishes

-routine finish

-restore fabrics after dyeing, printing, or finishing processes

desizing

-removes the size (protective coating) added to the fabric before weaving then absorbs dyes and finishes evenly

sizing

-chemical compounds are added to warp yarns

-to provide the warp yarns with sufficient abrasion resistance during weaving

boil off/scouring

-removal of impurities

-fabrics are treated with soaps or detergents, rinsed, and then dried

bleaching

-applying chemicals to remove color from fabric

-whiten natural fibers

-make dyed or printed fabrics brighter

-a chemical, durable finish

tentering

-process of drying fabrics to a desired width

-straighten the warp and filling yarns of woven fabrics at right angles to each other

-held at edges on a frame by pins/clips and passed through heat

-mechanical, temporary finish

simple calendering

-mass product ironing

-fabric is smoothed and pressed through rollers to remove wrinkles and add slight shine

-temporary mechanical finish

glazed calendaring

-fabric is treated with starch, wax, or resin then polished using a high-speed friction calender for a shiny surface

-using starch/wax = temporary

-using resin = durable

-common on cotton fabrics

cire calendering

-similar to glazed calendering

-uses higher roller speed to create a higher shine = highly lustrous finish

-done on thermoplastic fabrics (polyester, nylon, acetate) for permanent effect

schreiner calendering

-uses finely engraved rollers to create a soft luster and smoother hand

-thermoplastic fiber content = permanent

-resin treated fabric = durable

-untreated thermoplastic = temporary

mercenrization

-chemical finish for cotton

-fabric is treated with strong sodium hydroxide under tension causes fibers to swell and permanently change

-increase strength, luster, and absorbency (can make fabrics stiffer)

napping

-low twist, spun fabrics are brushed with rotating bristles to raise fibers

-creates a soft and fuzzy surface

-improves softness and warmth but leads to pilling

brushing

-similar to napping but yarns have a higher twist

-surface is only slightly fuzzy

shearing

-trims surface fibers off fabric

-create a uniform, even pile height

embossed

-fabric is pressed between engraved rollers

-creates a raised 3D design

-finish can be temporary (untreated), durable (resin-treated) or permanent (thermplastic/heat set)

plisse

-chemical is applied to specific areas

-creates shrinkage and puckered texture

-can be imitated with embossing on cotton to create a cheaper effect

moire calandering

-creates a wood grain/water mark effect

-used on rib fabrics

-fabric is pressed unevenly and creates a wavy pattern by changing how light reflects

-finish can be temporary, durable or permanent

pre-washing

-commercial laundering

-removes sizing from warp yarns

-fabric becomes softer and colors become lighter

optically brightening

-applied to fabric surface

-causes fabric to appear brighter/whiter

fulling

-laundering process

-creates permanent shrinkage in wool fabrics

-makes fabrics denser, more compact and thicker

stiffening

-fabric becomes stiffer and crisper

-often using starch to create a temporary finish

acid stiffening

-gives fabric a translucent and crisp effect

-most commonly on cotton fabric with thin yarns

-chemical finish

flame resistant fibers

-some fibers like wool and aramud are naturally flame resistant and dont need added treatment

-these materials are designed to resist burning due to their fiber structure

flame resistant chemical finishes

-chemicals can be applied to fabrics to improve flame resistance

-it will often reduce softness, strength, and durability

-finishes can wear off with washing and commonly used in items like children’s sleepwear

cotton/flax/cellulosic fibers

-uses compressive shrinkage to pre-shrink fabrics

-makes them more compact and reduces future shrinkage

wool washability

-step 1: chlorination

-step 2: polymer coating

chlorination

-wool is treated with chlorine to remove surface scales and reduce entanglemen

-disadvantage- strength loss and harsh hand

polymer coating

-wool chlorinated and then coated with a thin polymer layer

-improves washability and reduces strength loss and maintains a softer hand

rayon resin treatment

-reduces rayons water absorption and swelling

-improves shrinkage control but makes fabric stiffer

water and stain repellent finish

-chemical finishes coat yarns and allows air/moisture to pass while blocking liquid absorption

-liquids form beads on the surface instead of spreading and soaking in

-effectiveness can be reduced by leftover detergent and fabrics must be thoroughly rinsed after washing

soil release

-makes fabrics easier to clean

-increases absorbency and wettability and helps soils wash out during normal laundering

-common on hydrophobic fibers

resin finishes

-improves wrinkle resistance in cotton and other cellulosic fibers

-can reduce fabric strength and abrasion resistance

durable press

-reduces loss of strength in cotton/polyester blends

-polyester helps maintain strength

-blended fabrics, stiffer hand, lower cost

wrinkle free

-100% cotton fabrics

-strength is improved using long-staple fibers, tightly twisted yarns, and tightly woven constructions

Shrinkage control

the finish for cotton, flax, and cellulosic blended fabrics to help its function

compressive shrinkage finish

mechaically compressing the fabric lengthwise so there is less shrinkage later

sanforized

trademark for cotton woven fabrics with the compressive shrinkage finish

sanfor-knit

trademark for knit fabrics

visa and scotch guard stain release

well known trademarks for soil release