Fashion History #2

bustle period

1870-1890; named after the bustle = prominent feature of women’s fashion in this period; immigrants provided workers;

shopping arcades + department stores + mail order catalogs

bustle period; provided new ways of selling + buying ready-to-wear clothing; shift from little stores to much larger ones

bustle period undergarments

worn to support the new silhouette; chemise, corset, corset cover

bustle period corset

relatively tight and constricting, led to creation of a quite popular health corset made of natural + more flexible fibers by Dr. Warner

early bustle women’s fashion

1870-75; similar to a cage crinoline but the volume was in the back and the front was flatter; created by manipulating a full skirt; waterfall-like effect in back + apron-like front; train; pleadings, ruffles, trimming

middle bustle women’s fashion

1876-1883; narrower + smoother over the hips; sheath or curasse bodice, dropped fullness to below the back of the knees → lengthened corset; narrow + drapery, constricting, vertical; pleating, ruffles, trimming

later bustle women’s fashion

1884-1890; shelf-like back + rigid; jutted out sharply; long-waisted + slim bodice; lot of fabric + patterns

aesthetic movement

1880s; encouraged the rejection of the bustle period fashion in favor of a more medieval look; nor corsets, loose + long hair, light + less-restrictive garments

bustle period women’s accessories

Fans, shoes w/small heels, chatelaines, parasol

bustle period men’s fashion

Subtle changes from previous periods; choose from more styles of jackets related to the formality of the occasion; invention of the tuxedo for younger generations

bustle period men’s sportswear

knickers or knickerbockers; allowed men to move w/ease

bustle period men’s hats

bowler, derby, straw hats for summer

bustle period men’s accessories

ties + ascots, gloves, detachable collars, pince-nez

bustle period silhouette

increasing = bustle; reducing = corset; enhancing = trains, skirts, hats

1890-1900

bustle lost its prominence, only reminder was a small group of pleats at the back; x-shaped silhouette became popular again

1890-1900 undergarments

Chemise, corset, corset cover, pantaloons, petticoats; no cage/padding that had held out the bustle was no longer fashionable

1890-1900 women’s fashion

sleeves were excessive + full; collars + hats were wide; skirt fits smoothly in front; fullness held in deep pleats

tailor-made

two-piece suit for women w/leg-of-mutton sleeves; skillfully constructed + purposefully structured

1890-1900 workwear

blouse and skirt combo; blouse = shirtwaist + based on man’s dress shirt, full body, tall standing collar, sleeves tapered into a cuff; in an office, women would wear a tie; by 1898 sleeves became slimmer at shoulder + skirt became less full

1890-1900 sportswear

craze for bicycling