coastal environments

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Last updated 6:26 PM on 4/16/26
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46 Terms

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Wave action

Waves form when wind transfers energy to the sea surface.

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Constructive waves

Low energy, strong swash, weak backwash; deposit sediment and build beaches.

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Destructive waves

High energy, weak swash, strong backwash; remove sediment and cause erosion.

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Erosion processes

Hydraulic action, abrasion, attrition, and solution are methods of erosion.

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Transportation

Movement of material along the coast by waves, including traction, saltation, suspension, and solution.

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Longshore drift

Waves approach the coast at an angle; swash moves sediment diagonally while backwash moves it straight down.

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Deposition

Occurs when wave energy decreases, often in sheltered areas, leading to the formation of beaches and spits.

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Weathering

Breakdown of rock in situ (no movement), including mechanical, chemical, and biological weathering.

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Mass movement

Downhill movement due to gravity, including sliding and slumping, often triggered by wave erosion.

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Geology

Type of rock affects erosion rates; hard rock is resistant, while soft rock erodes quickly.

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Vegetation

Roots stabilize soil and reduce erosion by holding sediment in place.

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People

Coastal defences can interrupt natural processes and increase erosion in other areas.

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Sea-level change

Rising sea levels increase erosion and flooding risks due to climate change factors.

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Headlands and bays

Form where bands of hard and soft rock alternate, with soft rock eroding faster to create bays.

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Cliffs and wave-cut platforms

Cliffs erode at their base, causing wave-cut notches, leading to cliff collapses and retreat.

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Cave → arch → stack → stump

Sequence of erosion where waves exploit headland cracks, resulting in formations from caves to stumps.

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Beaches

Form from deposited sand/shingle, with shapes depending on wave type.

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Spits

Form by longshore drift extending from land into the sea, curving due to changing wind directions.

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Bars

Spits that extend across a bay, cutting off water and forming lagoons.

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Coral reefs

Found in warm, shallow, clear waters; they are extremely biodiverse ecosystems.

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Mangroves

Adapted trees found in tropical coastal areas that trap sediment and reduce erosion.

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Sand dunes

Formed by wind depositing sand behind beaches, stabilised by vegetation, serving as coastal defence.

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Salt marshes

Found in sheltered areas like estuaries; built up from deposited mud and support specialised plants.

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Abiotic factors (Mangroves)

High salinity, waterlogged, low-oxygen soils, and regular tidal flooding affect mangrove ecosystems.

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Biotic factors (Mangroves)

Mangrove trees have aerial roots and support diverse adapted species, forming complex food webs.

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Industrialisation

Pollution from factories harms ecosystems, with oil spills particularly harmful to marine life.

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Agriculture

Fertilizers cause eutrophication and land cleared for agriculture leads to habitat loss.

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Tourism

Construction destroys natural environments, leading to increased waste and disturbance.

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Deforestation

Removal of mangroves for timber or land increases erosion and flooding risk.

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Coastal conflicts

Different groups have competing interests, and management decisions create winners and losers.

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Example – Holderness Coast

Mappleton's protection with groynes traps sediment, causing faster erosion in nearby areas.

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Causes of coastal flooding

Storm surges, tsunamis, and climate change contribute to rising sea levels and flooding risks.

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Prediction of coastal flooding

Monitoring weather systems and sea levels and using early warning systems reduce risks.

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Prevention of coastal flooding

Implementing sea defences, raised buildings, and public education to mitigate flooding.

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Hard engineering

Structures like sea walls and groynes are effective but can cause environmental damage.

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Soft engineering

Utilises more sustainable methods like beach nourishment and managed retreat, though requires maintenance.

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Shoreline Management Plans

Long-term strategies for coastlines that decide on interventions, including hold the line, managed retreat, or no intervention.

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Erosional and depositional processes

Erosional processes remove material from coasts, forming landforms like headlands and bays, while depositional processes accumulate sediment, leading to features such as beaches, spits, and bars.

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Distinctive ecosystems

Coastal ecosystems include coral reefs, mangroves, sand dunes, and salt marshes, each with unique characteristics and ecological roles in coastal environments.

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Abiotic and biotic characteristics

Abiotic factors are non-living components like salinity and temperature, while biotic factors include plant and animal life. Both influence the dynamics and health of coastal ecosystems.

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Impact of human activities

Human activities such as industrialisation, agriculture, tourism, and deforestation threaten coastal ecosystems by causing pollution, habitat loss, and increased erosion.

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Case studies of coastal management

Analyzing case studies from developed and developing countries reveals diverse approaches to coastal management challenges, highlighting varying resources and methodologies.

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Conflicts in coastal management

Conflicts arise among stakeholders with differing priorities, such as economic development versus environmental conservation, necessitating balanced coastal management approaches.

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Causes of coastal flooding

Coastal flooding may result from storm surges, tsunamis, and rising sea levels due to climate change, making it crucial to understand these risks for effective management.

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Prediction and prevention of flooding

Predicting coastal flooding involves monitoring weather and sea levels, while prevention focuses on effective urban planning and public education to enhance community resilience.

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Coastal management strategies

Strategies include hard engineering methods like seawalls and soft engineering methods such as beach replenishment, aimed at sustainable management of coastal environments.