Understand the Basic Principles of Haircutting Good haircuts begin with an understanding of the shape of the head, referred to as the head form, also known as head shape. Hair responds differently on various areas of the head depending on the length and the cutting technique used. Being aware of where the head form curves, turns, and changes will help you achieve the look that you and your client are seeking. Reference Points Reference points on the head mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex. These points are used to establish design lines (figure 16-1). An understanding of head shape and reference points will help you in the following ways: Finding balance within the design, so that both sides of the haircut turn out the same. Developing the ability to create the same haircut consistently. Showing where and when it is necessary to change technique to make up for irregularities (such as a flat crown) in the head form. Standard reference points are defined below: Parietal ridge (puh-RY-ate-ul RIJ). This is the widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. This area is easily found by placing a comb flat on the side of the head: The parietal ridge is found where the head starts to curve away from the comb. The parietal ridge is also referred to as the crest area (figure 16-2). Occipital bone (ahk-SIP-ih-tul BOHN). The bone that protrudes at the base of the skull is the occipital bone. To find the occipital bone, simply feel the back of the skull or place a comb flat against the nape and find where the comb leaves the head (figure 16-3). Apex (AY-peks). This is the highest point on the top of the head. This area is easily located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head. The comb will rest on that highest point (figure 16-4). Four corners. These may be located in one of two ways. One is by placing two combs flat against the side and back, and then locating the back corner at the point where the two combs meet (figure 16-5). The second is by making two diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, which then point directly to the front and back corners (figure 16-6). You will not necessarily use every reference point for every haircut, but it is important to know where they are. The location of the four corners, for example, signals a change in the shape of the head from flat to round and vice versa. This change in the surface can have a significant effect on the outcome of the haircut. For example, the two front corners represent the widest points in the bang area. Cutting past these points can cause the bang to end up on the sides of the haircut once it is dry, creating an undesirable result. Areas of the Head The areas of the head are described below (figure 16-7): Top. By locating the parietal ridge, you can find the hair that grows on the top of the head. This hair lies on the head shape. Hair that grows below the parietal ridge, or crest, hangs because of gravity. You can locate the top by parting the hair at the parietal ridge, and continuing all the way around the head. Front. By making a parting, or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can separate the hair that naturally falls in front of the ear from the hair behind the ear. Everything that falls in front of the ear is considered the front. Sides. The sides are easy to locate. They include all hair from the back of the ear forward, below the parietal ridge. Crown. The crown is the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. On many people, the crown is flat and is the site of cowlicks or whorls. Because of this, it is extremely important to pay special attention to this area when haircutting. Nape. The nape is the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone. The nape can be located by taking a horizontal parting, or by making a horizontal line across the back of the head at the occipital bone. Back. By making a parting or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can locate the back of the head, which consists of all the hair that falls naturally behind the ear. When you have identified the front, you have also identified the back. Bang area. also known as fringe area. The bang area is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners (figure 16-8). This area can be located by placing a comb on top of the head so that the middle of the comb is balanced on the apex. The spot where the comb leaves the head in front of the apex is where the bang area begins. Note that the bang area, when combed into a natural falling position, falls no farther than the outer corners of the eyes

Head Form

The shape of the head that is important for understanding how haircuts will respond to different techniques.

Reference Points

Marks on the head where the surface changes, such as the ears and jawline, used to establish design lines.

Parietal Ridge

The widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown, also called the crest area.

Occipital Bone

The protruding bone at the base of the skull, found by feeling the back of the skull or by using a comb.

Apex

The highest point on the top of the head, located by placing a comb flat on the top of the head.

Four Corners

Points on the head that indicate where the shape changes from flat to round, found by using combs or diagonal lines.

Crown

The area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge, often flat and where cowlicks or whorls are found.

Nape

The area at the back of the neck below the occipital bone, can be located by taking a horizontal parting.

Bang Area

Also known as the fringe area, it begins at the apex and ends at the front corners, typically triangular in shape.

Top Area

The hair that grows on the top of the head, found by locating the parietal ridge.

Front Area

The hair that naturally falls in front of the ear, separated by a parting from the apex to the back of the ear.

Side Area

The hair that falls from the back of the ear forward, below the parietal ridge.

Back Area

Consists of all hair that naturally falls behind the ear, located by parting from the apex to the back of the ear.

Balance in Haircutting

The evenness and symmetry achieved in a haircut by understanding head shape and reference points.

Technique Variation

Adjusting cutting techniques to accommodate irregularities in head shapes, such as a flat crown.