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Wavelength
the distance between two wave crests (tops)
Wave height
the vertical distance from the trough to the crest
Wave trough
the lowest point of a wave
Wave velocity
how fast the wave moves through the water
Swash
water rushing up the beach after a wave breaks
Backwash
water flowing back down the beach toward the sea
Tides
the rise and fall of sea level caused by the Moon's gravitational pull
Rip currents
fast, narrow channels of water flowing away from shore (dangerous for swimmers)
Sea-level change
rising seas erode coastlines and can drown beaches; falling seas expose new land
Erosional vs. Depositional Features:
Waves erode cliffs and headlands, carving sea caves, arches, and stacks
Waves deposit sediment to form beaches, sandbars, and spits
Divide
a ridge or high area separating two drainage basins
Drainage basin
all the land that drains into a particular river
Source
where a river begins (usually in mountains)
Tributary
a smaller stream that flows into a larger river
Confluence
where two rivers meet and join
Estuary
where a river meets the sea (mix of fresh and salt water)
Sediment Transport Methods:
Suspension
Saltation
Traction
Suspension
fine particles (like silt) float and are carried along in the water
Saltation
sand-sized particles bounce along the riverbed
Traction
large rocks and boulders are rolled or dragged along the bottom
Point bar
deposit of sediment on the inside of a river bend (slow water)
Cut bank
erosion on the outside of a river bend (fast water)
Porosity
how much empty space (pores) a rock or soil has to store water
Permeability
how easily water can flow through a material
Water table
the upper surface of the underground saturated zone
Aquifer
an underground layer of rock that holds and transmits groundwater
Excessive depletion effects
land subsidence (sinking), wells drying up, saltwater intrusion near coasts
Types of Sand Dunes:
Barchan
Transverse
Parabolic
Blowout
Star
Barchan
Crescent shaped, horns point down, consistant one direction
Transverse
Long ridges perpendicular to wind, consistant, abundant sand
Parabolic
U shaped, horns point up, vegitation anchors the edges
Blowout
Bowl shaped depression, wind scoops out loose sand
Sand
Multiple arms radiating out, variable/ Multiple wind directions
Plateau
large, flat elevated landform
Mesa
smaller flat-topped hill with steep sides
Butte
even smaller than a mesa, narrow flat-topped tower
Yardangs
wind-sculpted ridges of rock, streamlined like an upside-down boat
Erg
a vast sea of sand dunes (like the Sahara's sandy parts)
Arroyo
a dry creek bed that fills suddenly with water during rain
Playa
a flat, dry lake bed in a desert basin
Exotic stream
a river that originates in a wet region and flows through a desert (e.g., the Nile, Colorado River)
Two Main Types of glaciers:
Continental glaciers (ice sheets)
Alpine (mountain) glaciers
Continental glaciers (ice sheets)
massive, cover entire continents (like Antarctica & Greenland); flow outward in all directions
Alpine (mountain) glaciers
confined to mountain valleys; flow downhill due to gravity
Earth has had multiple glaciation periods
the most recent major one ended about 10,000–12,000 years ago
These are linked to Milankovitch cycles
Zone of accumulation
upper area where snowfall adds to the glacier
Zone of ablation
lower area where ice melts or evaporates
Alpine Glacier Features:
Crevasses
Arête
Col
U-shaped valley
Hanging valley
Truncated spurs
Crevasses
deep cracks in the glacier's surface caused by stress
Arête
a sharp, knife-like ridge between two glacial valleys
Col
a low pass between two peaks formed by two glaciers eroding back-to-back
Horn
a sharp, pyramid-shaped peak carved by glaciers on multiple sides (e.g., the Matterhorn)
U-shaped valley
a valley carved by a glacier into a wide, flat-bottomed "U" shape (unlike river valleys which are V-shaped)
Hanging valley
a smaller tributary glacial valley that ends abruptly high above the main valley floor, often creating a waterfall
Truncated spurs
ridges that were cut off and flattened by a passing glacier
Proxy Data
indirect evidence used to reconstruct past climates before instruments existed
Ice cores
trapped air bubbles reveal ancient atmospheric composition and temperature
Sea-floor sediments
contain fossils of organisms sensitive to temperature
Fossilized pollen
tells scientists what plants (and therefore climates) existed in the past
Tree-ring analysis (dendrochronology)
wide rings = good growing year; narrow rings = drought/cold
Corals
their growth rings record ocean temperature changes
Water contains two forms of oxygen:
light (¹⁶O) and heavy (¹⁸O)
During cold periods what gets locked into ice ?
more ¹⁸O gets locked in ice, leaving ocean water enriched in ¹⁸O
What did scientists analyze
ice cores and sea-floor sediments to measure these ratios, which tells them how warm or cold past climates were
Plate tectonics
moving continents change ocean circulation and atmospheric patterns over millions of years
Volcanic activity
eruptions release ash and SO₂, which can cool the Earth by blocking sunlight
Milankovitch cycles
natural changes in Earth's orbit and tilt that affect how much solar energy Earth receives (cycles of ~100,000, 41,000, and 26,000 years)
Variations in the Sun's output
the Sun's energy isn't perfectly constant; changes affect Earth's temperature
Greenhouse Gases
Water vapor
Carbon dioxide
Methane
Nitrous oxide
Ozone (O₃) and others
Water vapor
the most abundant natural greenhouse gas
Carbon dioxide
released by burning fossil fuels and deforestation
Methane
from livestock, landfills, and natural gas
Nitrous oxide
from agriculture and fertilizers
The IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change)
states with greater than 95% certainty that human activity is the dominant cause of the warming observed since the mid-20th century. This is considered a scientific consensus.