Hiking the Kumano Kodo Trail

hiking in kumano kodo May 2026

Nachikatsuura

Nachikatsuura is a town located in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan, known for its scenic coastal views, hot springs, and rich cultural heritage. It is part of the Kumano region, famous for its ancient pilgrimage routes and natural beauty. The town is situated near notable sites such as the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine and the Nachi Falls, which is one of Japan's tallest waterfalls. Tourists often visit for its relaxing atmosphere, beautiful landscapes, and traditional Japanese experiences.

Koguchi

Koguchi is a small village located in the Kumano region of Wakayama Prefecture, Japan. It serves as a tranquil gateway to the stunning natural landscapes of the area, which includes lush forests, mountains, and scenic rivers. The village is closely associated with the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, historic paths that connect sacred sites. Koguchi is known for its traditional wooden houses and warm hospitality, offering visitors a chance to experience rural Japanese culture. The surrounding area provides opportunities for hiking, exploring waterfalls, and enjoying hot springs, making it a popular destination for those seeking relaxation and adventure in nature.

Kii Peninsula Japan

The Kii Peninsula is located in the southern part of Honshu, Japan. It is known for its rugged coastline, beautiful beaches, and diverse ecosystems, including mountains, forests, and rivers. The peninsula is home to several historic sites, including the Kumano Shrines, which are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is recognized for its cultural significance due to ancient pilgrimage routes that connect the shrines to the sacred landscape. The area offers outdoor activities like hiking, fishing, and hot spring bathing, making it a popular destination for both nature enthusiasts and those seeking a glimpse into Japan's rich history and traditions.

Koyasan Mount Koya

Koyasan (Mount Koya) is a sacred mountain area in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan. It’s the center of Shingon Buddhism, founded by the monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai) in the 9th century.

What it’s known for:

• A large monastic complex with over 100 temples

• Okunoin Cemetery, one of Japan’s most important spiritual sites, with thousands of moss-covered graves and a path leading to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum

• Temple lodging (shukubo), where visitors can stay overnight, eat traditional vegetarian monk cuisine (shojin ryori), and join morning prayers

• A peaceful, forested atmosphere at about 800 meters elevation

Kōbō Daishi Kukai 弘法大師

Kōbō Daishi is a very important figure in Japanese Buddhist history. His real name is Kūkai.

Basic Information
– Born in the year of 774
– Died in the year of 835
– Founder of the Shingon (Esoteric) Buddhist school

Main Achievements
– Traveled to China (Tang Dynasty) to study esoteric Buddhism and brought it back to Japan
– Founded Mount Kōya as the center of Shingon Buddhism
– Contributed to many fields, including calligraphy, engineering, and education

Famous Saying
– “Even Kōbō Daishi makes mistakes”
→ Meaning: Even experts can make errors

Belief
– It is believed that he entered eternal meditation at Mount Kōya and continues to help people spiritually

Ogumotori-goe

The Ogumotori-goe is widely considered the most physically demanding, visually dramatic, and spiritually profound section of the Nakahechi route on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

Spanning roughly 14.5 kilometers between the mountain village of Koguchi and the sacred shrine complex of Kumano Nachi Taisha, it forces travelers to cross a rugged mountain ridge. Historically, this path was the final major test for pilgrims before they reached the spectacular Nachi Falls.

Dogiri-zaka Torso-Cutting Slope

True to its intimidating name, this is a brutal 2.5-kilometer opening ascent that climbs roughly 800 vertical meters straight out of Koguchi. It earned its name because the relentless incline makes you feel as though your body is being split in two. Location: It is part of the Nakahechi route between the rural village of Koguchi and the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine.

• Difficulty: It has been a grueling physical test for centuries; even famous historical poets have documented how physically exhausting this specific stretch is.

DO ( body/torso), giri ( cut/break), and zaka ( - slope/hill).

Jizo-jaya Teahouse Remains

A welcome rest area near the high point of the first ridge, offering a flat space to recuperate, public restrooms, and a shelter.

Hyakken-gura

Perhaps the most visually rewarding viewpoint on the entire Kumano Kodo. Emerging from the dense forest canopy, the trail opens up to a sweeping, panoramic vista of the "3,600 mountains of Kumano" rolling out into the misty horizon.

The Waraji-toishi 靴石 - "Straw Sandal Rock"):

A massive, flat-faced boulder alongside the trail naturalized with moss, featuring natural rock formations that resemble giant woven straw sandals (waraji). It is associated with the spirits of the Kumano deities resting during their travels.

Funami-toge Pass (舟見峠)

The final high pass of the trek. On a clear day, you can look eastward down over the mountains to catch your first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean and the coastal town of Katsuura, signaling that the end of the mountain crossing is near

Culmination at Nachi

The final descent brings you directly into the sacred precinct of Kumano Nachi Taisha, the brilliant vermilion Seiganto-ji Temple, and the roaring Nachi Falls—Japan’s tallest single-drop waterfall. Emerging from the quiet isolation of the deep forest into this majestic spiritual hub is the ultimate reward for enduring the hardships of the pass.

If you are preparing for this trek or reflecting on its trails, the weather patterns can shift rapidly across these ridges, frequently shrouding the ancient cedars in a beautiful, ethereal mountain mist that defines the region's spiritual atmosphere.

Toyotomi Hideyoshi

Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537–1598) was one of the key figures in the unification of Japan during the late Sengoku period.

He rose from very humble origins—reportedly the son of a peasant foot soldier—to become the most powerful man in Japan. Initially serving under the warlord Oda Nobunaga, Hideyoshi proved himself as a skilled general and administrator. After Nobunaga’s death in 1582, Hideyoshi consolidated power and continued the campaign to unify the country, which he largely completed by 1590.

Because of his low birth, he could not become shogun, so he took the title of kampaku (regent) and later taikō (retired regent), effectively ruling Japan.

Key aspects of his rule:

• Implemented major social reforms, including the “sword hunt,” disarming peasants to solidify class divisions.

• Established a rigid class system separating samurai, farmers, artisans, and merchants.

• Conducted nationwide land surveys to stabilize taxation.

• Promoted economic development and castle construction, notably Osaka Castle.

Late in his career, he launched invasions of Korea (1592–1598) in an attempt to reach China. These campaigns ultimately failed and strained Japan’s resources.

After his death in 1598, a power struggle followed, leading to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s victory at the Battle of Sekigahara (1600) and the establishment of the Tokugawa shogunate.

Hideyoshi is remembered as a brilliant strategist and administrator who completed Japan’s political unification, bridging the era between Nobunaga and Tokugawa.

豊臣秀吉

Yoshi

Yoshi is primarily a masculine given name, though it is also used as a nickname for longer names (like Yoshiko or Yoshinori

Meaning: Depending on the Japanese Kanji characters used, it translates to "good" (良), "righteous" (義), or "respect" (吉).

Ogumotori-goe

The Kumano Kodo’s Nakahechi Trail is filled with superb hikes, unforgettable landscapes, charming villages, magnificent torii gates and ancient shrines. I love a thousand things about the Kumano Kodo, a thousand things that hold a dear place in my heart, but none of them come close to the haunting memory of the Ogumotorigoe walk. 

 

Crossing the eternal green corridor of the Nakahechi trail’s last hike on my own, I saw Nature’s great power come into play. From the very start at the trailhead in Koguchi, those discreet dark, moss-hidden steps felt like a secret stairway leading to the gates of another realm. Here, when I took the first step, I knew no side routes or shortcuts were possible; there was no turning back. I just had to keep walking up these ancient steps, passing titanic rocks or stepping over monstrous roots waving across the trails like the tentacles of a deep-sea monster. In the early misty morning, I felt like I was being watched. In the afternoon, I understood I was being tested.

 

The Ogumotorigoe is a challenge of perseverance, overcoming obstacle after obstacle, trying to catch a new breath between each one. The Ogumotorigoe is a path to acceptance as you see the signs which dot the trail and realise that the goal is still a long way ahead of you. The Ogumotorigoe is also a fight with yourself, a quest to find the inner strength to move forward, to show the Kumano Gods you truly are worthy of the rewards waiting on the other side

Step after step after step, as I was slowly but surely getting closer to the clouds, something started to change in me. I stopped feeling tired. I no longer felt the pain in my legs and feet. The backpack on my back became as light as a feather. The rocks, the roots and the trees, gloomy at first, became allies. The wind howling through the giant cedar trees turned into an enchanting melody. The silent misty mountain seemed to awaken from her sleep, peering with curiosity and care at this tiny adventurer climbing on her back. Halfway through the trail, as I was settling onto a bench for my long-desired lunch break, I had the feeling of living my first moment as a new man.

People say that you come to the Kumano Kodo to be purified, to be reborn, to awaken your true self. At the final steps of the Ogumotorigoe Pass, entering the Nachi precinct more than 7 hours after my departure from Koguchi, I stopped walking at last. Breathing the fresh air, gazing at the great Nachi Falls now visible in the distance and overwhelmed by pride and joy, I finally understood why people told this tale of being born anew. The Ogumotorigoe, as the closing chapter of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi route, is, in itself, a pilgrimage and a lifetime achievement in my eyes. Walking the path of another world through a deep forest full of mysteries, crossing mist and time, making your way to the other side to discover your final goal: a place of wonder built by Nature and Man alike.

 

The Ogumotorigoe Pass greedily hid treasures far beyond my expectations. Treasures whose beauty only those who have walked the trail can fully realize. The incredible woodwork masterpieces of Seiganto-ji Temple, the natural elegance of Nachi Grand Shrine, the godly sight of Nachi Falls and the gorgeous primaeval forest surrounding it are the very highlights of the Kumano Kodo. After the long journey, the sense of arrival as I reached paradise in Nachi is a tale that I will proudly share with my children and grandchildren, a precious memory in the annals of my existence. I am sure that this feeling is shared by many other people who have challenged the Ogumotorigoe hike.

 

Here I was, in one piece, taking my time to finally sit down and enjoy the scenery. I had no stress, no worries, no fear: I might be leaving here soon, but here sure won’t leave me.