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types of waves: displacement
waves in an ocean/lake that result from a displacement of water caused by shifts in basin floor, may be seismogenic, heights up to/over 100 km when subaerial/submarine landslides are involved, and wavelength of 1000s of meters when caused by seismicity (tsunamis)
types of waves: tidal
waves resulting from the gravitational force between Earth & Moon/Sun, period of two waves per day, heights of 17m in Bay of Fundy, water is being pulled
types of waves: wind-generated
waves during storm surges, short periods, lower amplitudes and displacements
types of waves: tsunamis
large body wave generated in ocean/large late, long wavelength, high speed, low amplitudes in deep water but increase towards the shore, periods of 10-60 mins which can shorten near shore
wave speed
sqrt(gravity x depth), good for shallow (< 1 km) water
seismogenic tsunamis
larger movement causes larger tsunamis; however, this isn't always the amplification of wave height
causes for wave height amplification
shoaling, focusing, resonance
shoaling
as wave approaches decreasing water depths, the leading wave will slow, but water behind will build up and increase wave height
focusing
as wave enters shallowing bathymetry along an irregular coast, the wave front bends due to refraction of the waves, and they converge onto each other
resonance
if period of the oscillation is in phase with tsunami wave, a larger amplitude will result
triggers of displacement waves
seismogenic, submarine/subaerial landslides, submarine volcanic eruption, meteorite impact
dampening
a reduction of amplitude over time resulting from friction, inversely proportional to wavelength
longer wavelengths mean...
higher water for longer periods
why do tsunamis maintain energy over long distances?
because they have long wavelengths
countermeasures against tsunamis (2011 Japan)
offshore and onshore tsunami barriers, natural planted tree barriers, vertical evacuation buildings, periodic evacuation training