indoor plant and propigation

plant light

plants absorb red and blue wavelengths

red - promotes bud formation and flowering

blue - promotes green leafy growth

indoor artificial light does not contain enough red and blue light for plants to grow well

symptoms of plants not receiving enough natural light

will grow towards the light source

become spindly and weak

have smaller leaves

poor flower production

bud drop

leaf loss

variegated leaves are more likely to revert to solid green

foot candle

measures the brightness of a light source

direct sunlight can have a 10,000 foot candle measurement

shade of a tree can be closer to 250 foot candle measurement

characteristics of indoor light

categorized as low, medium, or high light levels

low - 50 - 250 foot candles

medium: 250 - 1000 foot candles

high: over 1000 foot candles

window facing

south - high and direct light (more light and warmth)

north - least amount of light and warmth

east - best location for most indoor plants as plants will receive morning sun with less heat

UV protectant window treatments, blinds, dirty windows and trees can reduce the amount of light reaching your plants

symptom of plant receiving too much natural light

faded leaves

burned brown and yellow blotches

effects of seasons

winter - plants grow more slowly, develop darker leaves

moving plants outdoors for the summer

need to acclimate (start with 10 minutes a day)

place them in a protected location

do the same to reacclimate them back indoors after summer

supplemental light

source of light matters (plants need red and blue wavelengths)

need higher intensity of supplemental light

need to grow close to the light source

basic fluorescent bulbs give off blue light

specialized wide spectrum grow lights have added red, far-red and blue light

plants should be no more than 6 - 8 inches away from the bulbs (fluorescent).

LEDs - plant should be no more than 12 - 30 inches away

HID lamps - primarily emit blue wavelenghs and heat. Usually expensive

most foliage require at least 12 - 16 hours of light a day

respiration

oxygen +sugar →carbon dioxide +water + energy

occurs day and night

temperature influences this process (cooler temperatures slow down the process while warmer temperatures increase it)

temperature influences

as long as production of sugars through photosynthesis keeps up with respiration rates, plants will thrive. lower nighttime temps help with this ensuring that not all of the photosynthetic sugars are depleted. if respiration occurs at a higher rate than photosynthesis, plants may eventually die. this is more likely to occur in winter when indoor temps remain warm, but the amount of light decreases.

most indoor plants prefer between 65 - 75 degrees

to trigger flowering, some plants require cooler temperatures at night

protect plants from cold temperatures near windows in winter (injury from cold may appear as curled, discolored leaves, water soaked areas or papery foliage)

humidity influences

most indoor plants prefer humid environments

group plants together to increase humidity around plants

place a shallow dish with water under plants to increase the amount of water that evaporates into the air

can grow sensitive plants in a terrarium

do not spritz or spray plants with water as this only increases the humidity for a brief amount of time and is more likely to encourage disease

air quality influences

drafts from heating and cooling systems may dry out plants more quickly and reduce flowering or growth

good potting material for indoor plants

will anchor the plant

provide drainage, water and nutrients

have pH between 5 and 6.5

contains a mixture of organic (sphagnum peat moss and pink bark) and inorganic material (sand, perlite and vermiculite)

of the common ingredients found in potting mix, few provide nutritional benefit

avoid using topsoil

containers for indoor plants

needs to provide adequate drainage with holes on the bottom

don’t allow containers to sit in water as it can lead to root rot

to use a pot that does not contain holes, grow the plant in a well draining liner inside the container and provide enough space between the bottom of the decorative plant and liner for water to drain

clay pots are a good option as the porous material allows for air exchange between the plant roots and the environment - overwatering can be less of a problem as the material will wick water away from the root ball (allow soil may dry out faster and minerals can collect on the outside of pots)

plastic pots are a good option - they are lightweight and inexpensive, come in many colors, sizes and shapes, easy to handle and can be sterilized for reuse, but are easier to tip if plants become overgrown

choose a container that is at least 1 - 2 inches larger than the current pot - to big of a pot can lead to overly wet conditions and root rot

repotting plant signs

when new shoots crowd the pot, extentsive root growth outside drainage holes or the plant is top heavy

plants that have outgrown their containers will need watering more than once every 24 hours

not likely to respond to fertilizer

how to repot

choose a container 1 - 2 inches larger in diameter than current pot

water the plant thoroughly several hours before you repot to make the soil easier to work with

carefully remove the plant from the pot by grabbing the plant by the base to avoid damage to the leaves and stems

unwind the roots and remove any circling, rotted or damaged roots before replanting

place in new pot at same depth

water well

place out of direct light for a few days to allow the plant to adjust to the new space