Cosmetology Final Milady

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Activators

Also Known as “boosters”, “protinators”, or “accelerators”; powered persulfate salts added to powder lightener to increase its lightening ability.

Aniline Derivatives

Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.

Balayage

Also known as “Free-form technique” or “Free-style hair painting”, painting lightener (usually a powdered or clay off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, dry hair for a more natural-looking highlight.

Base Color

Predominant tone of a color.

Color Fillers

Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment that supports the desired finished haircolor.

Color Wheel

A chart, usually circular, used as a tool that visually represents the relationships between colors; shows harmonizing and contrasting colors and illustrates the rules and guidelines of color theory.

Complimentary Colors

Primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel.

Conditioner Fillers

Recondition and equalize porosity on damaged hair; they condition, strengthen, help extend hair color longevity, and make the hair color formulation cover hair evenly from scalp to ends.

Contributing Pigment

Also known as “undertone”; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process.

Demipermanent Haircolor

Formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) natural hair color: hair colors meant to deepen or change the tone of natural hair color two types include acidic and alkaline.

Developers

Also known as “oxidizing agents” or “catalysts”; have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5, when mixed with an oxidative haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.

Double-Process Haircoloring

Also known as “Two-step Blonding” or “Double-Process Blonding”; coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is pre-lightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair.

Foil Technique

Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected hair strands by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil, applying lightener or haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil for processing.

Glaze

or “Haircolor Glaze”, describes a hair color service that adds shine, warmth, and color to the hair.

Gloss

Hair treatment and product that contains oxidative dyes and designed to add extreme shine to hair.

Hair Color

(two words) natural color of hair.

Haircolor

(one word) professional, industry-coined term referring to artificial hair color products and services.

Highlighting

Refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring, coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.

Hydrogen Peroxide

H2O2, oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidative hair color, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color.

Intensity

The strength of a color.

Law of Color

System for understanding color relationships.

Level System

measurement system that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of artificial and natural hair color.

Lightener

Also called “bleach” or “Decolorizer”, chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.

Line of Demarcation

Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.

Lowlighting

Technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color.

Soap Cap

A common industry practice used to refresh permanent hair color; involves using a combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo and worked through the hair during the last five minutes of the service.

Strand Test

Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.

Temporary Haircolors

Nonoxidative haircolors that make only a physical change -not a chemical change- on the hair shaft. This nonpermanent haircolor has large pigment molecules that only deposit a coating of haircolor on the cortex, which may be removed by shampooing the hair.

Tertiary Color

Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.

Tone

Also known as “tonality, refers to color balance.

Toners

Permanent hair color products mixed with a low-volume developer that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.

Volume

Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Weaving

Involves taking 1/8 inch (0.3cm) hair sections by making a straight part at the scalp, then separating select strands using a tail comb to go in and out of the section; lightener or color is applied only to those strands.

Metallic Haircolor

Also known as “progressive haircolor”; haircolor containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance.

Natural-based Haircolors

Also known as “Vegetable-dye Haircolors”; colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.

New growth

Also called “regrowth”; part of the hair shaft between the scalp and previously colored hair.

Off-scalp Lighteners

Strong and fast-acting lighteners; powdered clay lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp; oil, cream, and some powder lighteners considered (if specified by the manufacturer).

On-Scalp Lighteners

Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators.

Permanent Haircolors

Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than demipermanet colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer.

Pre- Lightening

First step of double process haircoloring; used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the toner application.

Primary Colors

Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors.

Secondary Color

Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.

Semipermanent Haircolor

Deposit-only haircolor that is not mixed with a developer and is formulated to last through several shampoos.

Single-process haircoloring

Process that lightens or deposits color in the hair in a single application.

Slicing

Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8 inch (0.3cm) hair sections by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color.

What is a Class CH license?

Hair only.

What is a Class CA license?

Hair and Nails

What is a Class MO license?

Manicure only.

What is a Class E license?

Esthetician.

What is a Class IN license?

Instructor.

Who appoints the members of the state board of cosmetology and barber examiners?

The Missouri State governor (Kehoe currently).

Who approves changes or additions to the State board Examiners?

Must receive the consent of the Senate.

How many members are on the State Board?

11 Members.

How many members of the state board are public members?

2 members.

How much money are the state board members paid each day spent in attendance at meetings for the board?

$70 per day.

What two things is a person in “retail cosmetic sales” NOT allowed to do? (Ulta and Sephora workers)

1) Cannot charge for services <such as applying makeup>

2) Cannot touch you <No skin to skin contact>

How many instructors per students must there be in a cosmetology school?

1 instructor for every 25 students <1 to 25 ratio>

What is the instructor/student ratio for barber school?

1 instructor to 15 students <1 to 15 ratio>

How many instructors trainees is an instructor allowed to teach at any given time?

3 instructor trainees to 1 instructor < 3 to 1 ratio>

All students must be enrolled and in attendance no less than_____ hours per day, with a weekly total of no less than ______ hours.

3 hours per day, 15 hours per week.

Maximum enrollment is _______ hours per day, with a weekly total of no more than_______ hours.

12 hours per day, 72 hours per week.

In a private school, CA hours =

1,500 hours.

In a private school CH hours =

1,500 Hours.

In a private school, MO hours =

400 hours.

In a private school, E hours =

750 Hours.

In a private school, Barbering hours =

1,000 hours.

How often does the picture displayed on your license need to be updated?

Every 5 years.

In a vocational/ technical school (high school), the hours for cosmetology are ______ hours.

1,220 Hours.

What must a school display in a conspicuous place, visible upon entry to the school?

1) A sign which reads “All work is done by students under instructor supervision”

2) All student licenses

What must be paid before a student will be allowed to take their state board licensure exam?

All tuition and all testing fees.

Does a salon need to be licensed by the board?

YES.

How many people does a salon license cover?

A salon license covers 3 people/stylists.

If a salon’s license needs to cover more stylists than a general salon license covers, what can be done?

You can pay $10 per person to attach more people under the salon license.

How much does a salon license fee cost?

$100

How soon before opening do you need to apply for a salon license?

At least 30 days before opening.

How soon do you need to apply for or renew a salon license if it is changing location or ownership?

Within 45 days before.

How long is a student license valid for?

Until you take your first test ( really only until the end of schooling, because after school = temp license→ then post-test = official license).

What does a temporary license allow you to do?

Allows you to operate while you are awaiting testing after school.

How many hours must an instructor trainee complete?

600 hours.

How many hours will an apprentice need to complete?

3,000 hours.

Are apprentices paid, and can they keep tips?

No, they cannot be paid, but they may keep tips.

To be an apprentice (someone who takes on an apprentice), how many operating license years must you complete?

2 years of doing hair.

How many apprentices are allowed per establishment (each booth)?

1 apprentice per one establishment.

How can an instructor trainee’s necessary credit hours be reduced?

1) If they have college training in methodology

2) If they have experience as a licensed cosmetologist; operating for 3 or more years.

How many years of working can allow someone to take the examination without needing schooling beforehand?

3+ years of working.

What must instructors do, besides paying the renewal fee, in order to renew their license?

Continuing education.

When are all licenses to be renewed by, or instead expire?

September 30th of every odd year.

When can a license that has NOT been renewed be renewed by in order to avoid having to take the examination again?

2 years, however, you cannot legally operate until the license is renewed.

WHat happens if an instructor license is not renewed within 2 years?

They must re-test.

What is “reciprocity”?

Transferring your license from one state to another.

If you violate the law, what is the penalty?

Class C misdemeanor.

Violations of the law include:

Drugs, dishonesty, fraud, impersonation, failure to post your license and current picture, fraudulent advertisement, illegal tools.

What year was the state board established?

Established in 1945, but “licensing” was established in 1899.

Prior to the state board, who governed cosmetology?

The licensing department.

How many times a year does the state board meet?

A minimum of 6 times each year.

FEE COSTS:

salon-

booth rental-

license renewal-

Late fee-

Inactive fee-

Cross-over fee-

Operator license-

Instructor fee-

Exam fee-

Salon- $100

Booth Rental-$100

License renewal-$50

Late fee-$30

Inactive fee-$30

Cross-over fee-$100

Operator license- fee-$50

Instructor fee-$30

Exam fee-$50

When are you required to notify the state board of an address change to your residence?

ASAP.

How do you get a duplicate license (if you lost yours)?

You must visit the state board in person.

What is required in order to receive a duplicate license?

The duplicate fee, and a notorized affidavit.

What is the I.D. requirement when working in the salon?

State license photo with a 2×2 photo taken within 5 years.