Types of Rock Climbing and Safety Procedures

Vocabulary flashcards based on key concepts, terminology, and safety procedures from rock climbing lecture notes.

Bouldering

A type of climbing that involves shorter walls, typically maxing out around 15ft, using problems rather than routes, with protection provided by padding and falling technique.

Lead Climbing

A type of climbing where the rope begins on the ground, and the climber clips into quickdraws or protection as they ascend.

Top Rope Climbing

A climbing style where the rope is anchored at the top and the climber is secured via a harness connected to a belayer. Rope is connected to the belayer via belay device. Belayer remoces slack as climber ascends

Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)

A grading system used in the U.S. for roped climbing, created by the Sierra Club to classify climb difficulty, ranging from Class 1 (simple trail walking) to Class 5 (technical climbing).

Bouldering Grades - V Scale

The grading system for bouldering that starts at VB for beginners and has an open-ended scale, currently topping out at V17. Created by John Sherman, or verm/sherman the vermin. random jueco tanks boulderer.

PBUS Method

An acronym used in top rope belaying that stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide; used to manage slack as the climber ascends.

Quickdraws

Climbing gear used in lead climbing that enables the rope to be clipped for protection during ascents.

Carabiner

A metal loop with a spring-loaded gate used to connect components in climbing gear.

Belayer

The person responsible for managing the rope during climbing to catch a fall and lower the climber safely.

Rope Climbing Grades

The classification of difficulty in rope climbing, which varies regionally and is subjective among climbing communities.

Rope Climbing

Walls are taller and require and require the use of a rope and belayer. Endurance is required and strength and power are not as dominant.

Lead Climbing Process

Rope begins on ground with climber tied into one end of rope, as they ascend they clip into quickdraws. pelayer gives out slack so the climber can move up the wall.

What safety systems aer needed for top rope climbing

Gear: harnedd, carabiner, rope, gris gris, anchor.

Human: climber and belayer

Types of lead climbing

Gym: quickdraws are in the walls

Sport: bolt hangersbolted but have to add quickdraws

Traditional: no prepared anything. need trad gear

What are the five classes

Class 1: Simple Trail Walking ● Class 2: Off Trail Hiking ● Class 3: Scrambling ● Class 4: Hard Scrambling/ Easy Climbing ○ Consider using a rope based on your risk tolerance ● Class 5: Technical Climbing ○ A rope is required

Numbers after 5 that are technical in YDS….

Begins at 5.0 and then is an open ended system = numbers just increase in as people climb harder and harder things ■ Current Hardest Route in the World is 5.15D ■ 5.0 - 5.9 might have + or - ■ Once at 5.10 letters A, B, C, and D used to further distinguish difficulty

Belayer Gear Safety Checklist

Ensure harness is on correctly ● Check the carabiner is connecting the belay device (Gri-Gri) to the harness’s belay loop ● Check that the belay device (Gri-Gri) is oriented correctly ● Double check that the carabiner is locked

Climber Gear Safety Checklist

Ensure harness is on correctly ● Attach the carabiner on the climbers side of the rope to belay loop ● Check that the carabiner is locked

What wording is used during climb and lowering?

Take and lower.

What happens during climb

Belayer uses PBUS to remove slack as the climber ascends ● If a climber calls for a “take” the belayer should take all of the slack out of the system and sit back in their harness so that they can take the weight of their climber. The belayer will then communicate that they’re ready and the climber can sit back in their harness and rest. The climber should communicate if they want to continue climbing or be let down. ● If a climber falls, the belayer immediately pulls the brake end of the rope into the brake down position to catch the climber. The climber can then rest and choose to continue climbing or be lowered.

What happens during lowering

When a climber is ready to come down, they must do a take and have all of their weight on the rope before the belayer can lower them. ● Once this is achieved, the belayer must bring their right hand with the brake end of the rope to their right hip, and then use their left hand to slowly pull the lever on the Gri-Gri back to lower the climber to the ground. ● The belayer should avoid over-gripping the break end while lowering to prevent rope burn. ● If the climber begins descending too quickly, the belayer should let go of the lever which will cause the breaking mechanism of the Gri-Gri to instantly reengage and stop the climber from falling. ● Once the climber has both feet back on the ground, the belayer can give extra slack so both parties can easily unclip from the system.

What is a Jug

Large, deep, and comfortable, allowing a full-hand, positive grip; often used for beginners or resting

What is a Crimp

:Very small, narrow ledges requiring high finger strength and tension, typically only fitting the first one or two finger pads

What is a Pinch

a feature requiring a squeezing grip, where the thumb opposes the fingers on opposite sides of a protruding rock or artificial volume

What is a Pocket

Holes or indentations that can fit only a few fingers or even just a single finger

What is a Sloper

Smooth, rounded holds relying on friction and body positioning rather than a positive edge