[4] 6133 LAB - BASIC COMPOUNDING TECHNIQUES

BASIC COMPOUNDING TECHNIQUES 

• Essential for determining the stability, texture, and overall efficacy of your final product. 

• all industry-standard, especially for small-batch prototyping and research and development in the cosmetic industry.

COSMETIC PRODUCT FORM

• Final physical form of a mixture of ingredients that consumers can take in their hands, purchase and use as a cosmetic product

Liquid

• ex

• Solution 

• Lotion 

• Suspension

Liquid

Fluid formulations that can be poured

Semi-solid

• ex

• Cream

• Ointment

• Paste

• Gel

Semi-solid

Thicker consistency than liquids, but they are not rigid

Solid

Maintain definite shape and volume

Solid

• ex

• Loose Powder

• Pressed Powder

• Capsule

• Stick

There are several factors that influence the CHOICE OF COSMETIC PRODUCT FORM:

• properties of ingredients

• functions of products

• duration of effect

• application surface

Properties of ingredients 

Solubility 

Stability 

Chemical nature of raw materials

Functions of products 

What the product is intended to do

E.g., cleanser, moisturizer, lipstick, etc.

Duration of effect

How long does the product stay on the skin to be effective?

Application surface

Face, scalp, skin, etc. 

SOLUTION

• Clear, homogenous liquid which may contain miscible liquid ingredients or a blend of liquid and solid ingredients that are soluble in the liquids

• Considered thermodynamically stable dosage form

Homogeneous:

mixture is uniform at the molecular level 

SOLUTION

• Unlike emulsions/suspensions that separate over time,

• solutions remain uniform unless there is a drastic change in temperature or solvent concentration

SOLUTION

• types of solvent used

• water based

• hydroalcoholic

• anhydrous

Water-based

• uses water as main solvent

• Most common, safest for biological use

Water-based

example

liquid hand soaps, makeup removers, most shampoos

Hydroalcoholic

• contain blend of water and alcohol as main solvent

• Alcohol is usually added to dissolve ingredients that are not water-soluble; it may also act as a preservative

Hydroalcoholic

example

 hairsprays, mouthwash, facial toners

Anhydrous

• waterless solution containing organic solvents or oily components

• Organic solvents like propylene glycol

Anhydrous

• example

• nail polish removers, bath oils, waxing oils

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS for solution

• Dissolve soluble ingredients first, starting with those that need heating for the dissolution process.

• Volatile ingredients are added at the end to prevent evaporation from the product.'

• Colored ingredients and color additives are added at the end.

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS for solution

Dissolve soluble ingredients first, starting with those that need heating for the dissolution process.

• Initial dissolution 

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS for solution

Volatile ingredients are added at the end to prevent evaporation from the product.

• To prevent evaporation

• To delay loss of components

Reason: If added early, especially with heat exposure, they may evaporate easily

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS for solution

Colored ingredients and color additives are added at the end.

• Color ingredients can make it difficult to detect completion of dissolution. Therefore, they must be added last

 EMULSION

• Two-phase system containing two immiscible liquids where one liquid (internal or dispersed - liquid broken into small droplet) is uniformly-dispersed as droplets throughout the other liquid (external or continuous Liquid where droplets are suspended) and the phases are stabilized by one or more emulsifying agents

Oil and water naturally separate to stabilize:

Add emulsifying agents (surfactants)

• Function of Emulsifier:

• Reduces surface tension

• Prevents droplets from coalescing (joining together)

• Acts like a “glue”

Three essential components of emulsion

• oil or silicone phase

• water phase

• emulsifiers

 oil or silicone phase

Provides emolliency

Carries lipophilic (fat-soluble) ingredients

(2) water phase, and 

Provides hydration

Carries hydrophilic (water-soluble) ingredients

(3) emulsifier/s

Stabilizes the mixture

Acts as a surfactant

emulsions are most widely used product form due to

• its unique texture and pleasant skin feel, (not too greasy (like oil) 

• and not too dry (like water)) and

• use as vehicle to deliver both hydrophilic and hydrophobic ingredients (suitable for single application delivery)

Oil-in-water

• Feel light on the skin (easily absorbed) and wash off easily

• Less expensive to formulate due to high water content

• Most common

Oil-in-water

ex

• hair conditioners 

• shaving creams

• moisturizing creams

Water-in-oil

• Feel greasy and heavy when applied to the skin and more challenging to wash off

• They create a protective occlusive layer Beneficial when greater moisturization or water resistance is needed

Water-in-oil

EX

• dry skin moisturizers

• sunscreens

• diaper rash

Water-in- silicone

• Provide a unique, nongreasy, silky skin feel and quick drying effect, leaving skin smooth

• they dry very quickly

• Non-greasy finish

• Leaves minimal residue

Water-in- silicone

EX

• liquid facial foundation

• High-end cosmetic primers (matte finish)

Multiple emulsion

• W/O/W emulsions and O/W/O emulsions

• Serve as reservoir to protect sensitive skin ingredients and prolonged moisturization

  • Acts as a reservoir system. 

  • They are excellent for protecting sensitive active ingredients from degradation

  • Best used for obtaining a sustained release effect to prolong moisturization

LOTIONs

• Also called milks or balms

• Low-viscosity liquid emulsions

• Contain higher amount of water in the  continuous phase

• Easy to spread without rubbing

• Less greasy and easily washable

Packaged in tube or squeeze bottle

CREAMS

• Higher viscosity semisolid emulsion

• May be packed into jar or tube

 COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS (emulsion)

• hot process is used when

the formulation includes solid and semi-solid components like waxes & fatty acids which can be melted to incorporate properly.

 COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS (emulsion)

• hot process

• Water and oil phases are combined separately and heated separately to the same temperature.

• When both phases are at the same temperature, the phases are mixed, usually adding the internal phase to the continuous phase.

• Mixing is continued until emulsion is cool to achieve uniformity.

• Once cool, temperature- and shear-sensitive ingredients can be added and mixed into the emulsion

  
  

Water and oil phases are combined separately and heated separately to the same temperature.

• temperature should be around 70-75°C to ensure that all components are liquid and ready for integration

When both phases are at the same temperature, the phases are mixed, usually adding the internal phase to the continuous phase.

• Mixing is the crucial part since we need to mix vigorously to produce a stable emulsion with low droplet size.

Once cool, temperature- and shear-sensitive ingredients can be added and mixed into the emulsion

• Sensitive ingredients like volatile oils, fragrances, thermolabile ingredients (botanical extracts & vitamins) can now be added when the mixture is cooled to avoid their evaporation.

Cold Process (emulsion)

• Advantages of the technique are

• it saves energy

• requires shorter processing time, and 

• temperature-sensitive ingredients can be combined prior to mixing the two phases.

Cold Process (emulsion)

• Does not allow

• use of waxes and waxy emulsifiers

Cold Process (emulsion)

Phases are mixed at

room temperature without heating.

SUSPENSION

• Liquid product form that contains insoluble solid particles uniformly dispersed.

• “Shake well before use” statement are included in labels

SUSPENSION

Water-based

water-based nail polish

SUSPENSION

Hydroalcoholic

facial spot treatments

SUSPENSION

Anhydrous

• silicone-based antiperspirant sprays

• organic solvent-based nail polish

• liquid lipstick 

• lip gloss

SUSPENSION

Emulsion

• inorganic UV filter-based sunscreen creams

• cream eyeshadows

• cream foundations

Factors influencing stability include the

• viscosity of the liquid phase, 

• difference in densities between the two phases,

• particle size of the insoluble  particles,

• and gravitational acceleration

• Wetting agents

• are surfactants that lower the surface tension  between the liquid and the solid.

• It will allow the liquid to displace the air and will coat the particles.

Dispersing agents

break up agglomerates (larger clusters of particles) and prevent reformation (also known as flocculation) by stabilizing individual particles. Maybe surfactants or polymeric molecules.

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS

• liquid

• Perform size reduction and prepare the thickener solution.

• After proper hydration and swelling of the thickener, other liquid ingredients are mixed into the liquid phase.

• Solid particles are wetted and dispersed with high shear in the liquid phase to get a smooth, uniform preparation.

Perform size reduction and prepare the thickener solution.

• Trituration is done to reduce the particle size.

• Suspending agents are added to increase the viscosity of the formulation.

Semi-solid COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS

Emulsify the oil into the suspension or disperse the solid in an emulsion to prevent separation ensuring a smooth uniform texture.

Three distinct components are managed with semi-solid preparations:

liquid vehicle, oil base, and insoluble solids.

 OINTMENT

• Formulated to be either anhydrous or with a small amount of water only

• Highly viscous and greasier products relative to creams

• Provide water-resistant seal over the skin

• Have low aesthetic appeal for skin and hair care products due to being oily, greasy, sticky, tacky, and heavy

OINTMENT

• Advantageous for

• small skin areas that are extremely dry and areas that are prone to friction from clothing

Anhydrous types OF OINTMENts are made by

mixing oily, waxy ingredients until homogenous, with heating as needed.

PASTE

• Very viscous semisolid product containing about 20-50% solids which makes pastes stiff and difficult to spread on the skin

PASTE

• Diaper rash ointments

are typically water-resistant, adhesive and difficult to wash off.

PASTE

• Prepared in manner

• as ointments with special attention to the incorporation of solids into the base to ensure that the final product will not be gritty and lumpy.

PASTE

• Prone to a gritty and lumpy texture; to avoid this,

• solid powders must be finely subdivided and thoroughly mixed into the paste. The final product should be smooth, with solids evenly distributed throughout the semisolid.

 GELS

• Contains a gelling agent that creates a three-dimensional network interpenetrated by a liquid

• May be transparent, translucent, or opaque

• May contain fragrance beads, moisturizing beads, and exfoliating beads

 GELS

Water-based

• Facial cleanser gels and shaving gels

 GELS

Hydroalcoholic

Hair styling gels and hand sanitizer gels

 GELS

Anhydrous

Extrudable antiperspirant gels and hair oil gels

 GELS compounding considerations

• Hydrate the thickener completely.

• Add other ingredients and mix until uniform.

• Add volatile and colored ingredients at the end.

Hydration is usually done by

free wetting or shear dosing

POWDER

• Solid product form that contains a mixture of solid particles

• Primarily categorized by physical state and the manufacturing process used to create them

LOOSE

• are a blend of free-flowing dry solid ingredients. 

• offer a sheer, airy finish

LOOSE

• They are used for

• makeup products (mineral facial powders, blushes, eyeshadows), baby powders and bath salts.

PRESSED

• are made of a blend of free-flowing powders via compression.

• Designed for portability and controlled application

PRESSED

• They are popular for

• eyeshadows, facials powders, finishing powder and blushes. Also include bath bombs.

Binders

• keep particles together,

• provide mechanical strength, and

• prevent breaking and crumbling during shipping or shaking.

binders may be

• solid ingredients (starches) or

• liquids (caprylic/ capric triglyceride and dimethicone).

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS loose

Grind starting materials to provide uniform, fine particle sizes

Mixed the ingredients together and fill into the container

COMPOUNDING CONSIDERATIONS pressed

Grind starting materials to provide uniform, fine particle sizes

Mixed the ingredients together.

Press the powders into shape and place in final container.

STICK

• Solid product form made of waxes and oils with the addition additives included in the matrix of other oil-soluble or oil-dispersible ingredients

STICK

• used in

makeup products (lipsticks, eyeshadow sticks, eyeliner pencils and concealers) and

personal care products (deodorant/ antiperspirant sticks and sunscreen sticks)

STICK advantageous for

• consumers who do not want to touch the product and apply it with fingers

STICK compounding consideration

• Fusion method Waxy ingredients (beeswax, carnauba wax) that are solid at room temperature are melted and mix with oil (caster oil, mineral oil) and additional ingredients (API).

• While still hot, the mix is poured just above its congealing point to prevent the API from settling at the bottom, either into the final containers or into metal, plastic of silicone molds.

• Allow the stick to cool. Ensure slow and uniform cooling to prevent dipping or hole formation in the center