Basic Steps in Sewing Lecture Notes

Flashcards covering sewing machine types, parts, accessories, cutting and marking tools, fabric terminology, and basic tailoring principles.

Hand-operated machine

A machine operated by an attached hand handle; it is portable and generally cheaper than electric models.

Foot-operated machine

A machine with a stand operated by the foot, allowing the tailor to handle fabric with both hands.

Electric machine

A fast-working, relatively expensive machine that can be difficult for beginners to handle due to its speed.

Computer-operated machine

The latest computer-driven machine that uses compatible discs to produce different designs without effort.

Spool Pin

A small iron rod on which the sewing thread is attached for sewing.

Balance Wheel

A round wheel on the right side of the machine that rotates the upper drive shaft to move the needle and hook.

Tension Regulator

A dial that controls the tension on the top thread to ensure uniform stitches with the bobbin thread.

Thread Lever

The part responsible for the flow of thread through the needle.

Presser Foot

A component that regulates the pressure on the fabric and holds it in the correct position during sewing.

Feed Dog

The part of the sewing machine that moves the fabric while sewing.

Slide Plate

A flat plate that covers the bobbin and bobbin case and can be moved to install or remove the bobbin.

Bobbin winder

A part located beside the balance wheel used to fill the bobbin with thread when it is empty.

Stitch Length Dial

The component with numbers showing how many stitches are required in $2.5\,cm$ and used for reverse stitching.

Hammer

An additional machine part used specifically for Hemming.

Binder

A machine attachment used to insert bias tape or binding by folding it in half around the fabric.

Tucker

An attachment used to create pleats in the fabric.

Ruffle

A machine part used to create frills on a garment.

Measuring Tape

A tool usually $60$ inches long made of plastic or metal; plastic is used for both cloth and body measurements.

Tracing Wheel

A tool with a small handle and a toothed wheel used to transfer paper drafts or markings to fabric.

Tailor's Chalk

A marking tool available in various colors used to draw designs or lines on fabric before stitching.

Shears

Cutting tools with unequal handle sizes designed to provide more pressure for cutting cloth.

Pinking Shears

Special scissors with serrated edges that cut silk fabric in a zig-zag form to prevent edges from raveling.

Gauge 60

A thread number considered strong and of good quality for sewing.

Sharp Needles

General hand-sewing needles characterized by having a small eye.

Crewel Needles

Needles with a large eye that are especially used for embroidery.

English Needle Numbers

Needles numbered $6$, $7$, $8$, and $9$, where $6$ is the thickest and $9$ is the thinnest.

Chinese Needle Numbers

Needles numbered $1$ to $5$, where $1$ is the thickest and $5$ is the thinnest.

Thimble

A small metal or plastic cap worn to protect the finger and push the needle, especially used in quilting.

Seam Opener

A small tool consisting of a handle, shaft, and head used for ripping or removing stitches.

Bias

A fabric direction forming a $45$-degree angle between warp and weft; it has the ability to stretch.

Selvedge

The finished edge on either side of a fabric that prevents raveling, usually $25\,cm$ wide.

Warp

Lengthwise threads that run parallel to the selvedge; they are stronger and prone to shrinkage.

Weft

Widthwise threads passed horizontally across warp threads; they are thinner and less twisted.

Grain

The thread or yarn alignment in fabric; refers to the relationship between warp and weft threads.

Sag

A droop in the middle of fabric that occurs when ends do not meet properly when folded.

Reinforced Seam

A technique of doubling stitches at the beginning or end of a seam to prevent the stitch from coming out.

Bias Strip Width

The appropriate width for a bias strip applied to a neck, which is generally $2.5\,cm$.

Straight Strip Width

The appropriate width for a straight strip applied to a neck, which is generally $3\,cm$.