Chapter 4 Darts

Dart

An amount of fabric taken from a flat garment to create shape.

Functional or Decorative Darts

Darts can serve a practical purpose in fitting or simply serve as a design element.

Straight or Tapered Darts

The two types of darts based on their shaping and end points.

Awl

A tool used in production to mark darts.

Melding the stitches

Pressing the stitching line in the direction it was sewn.

Dart Tucks

Shorter darts that are not stitched to a point and left to open into fullness.

Gathers

A technique to create fullness in place of a dart, suitable for softer, lightweight fabrics.

Cowl Neckline

A neckline featuring draped fabric around the collarbone.

Effect of Cowl Depth

The lower the depth of the cowl, the greater the amount of fabric needed to produce the cowl.

Plaid Matching

Match plaids at the crosswise bars along center front and center back seams.

Hand Basting

A technique to secure darts before stitching to match stripes.

Waist Darts

Darts that should be placed parallel to the fabric grain on plaids, aiding in fit.

Sheer Fabrics

Avoid overfitting sheer fabrics with too many darts.

Thread Tracing

Marking dart legs and point placement in lace to improve visibility.

Beaded Fabrics

Beads should be removed from the dart intake area before stitching.

Catch Stitching

A technique to secure dart edges to the garment, particularly on faux furs.

Reducing Bulk in Faux Fur

Cut away fur hairs on the dart intake section to minimize bulk.

Style Lines

Fitted lines used in place of darts when utilizing faux fur fabrics.