textiles - decades of fashion

when was 'la belle epoque'?

1871-1914

what was 'la belle epoque'?

- the beautiful era

- a period of French and European history that began after the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and continued until the outbreak of World War I in 1914.

- optimism

- enlightenment

- regional peace

- economic prosperity

- technological and scientific progress

- the arts flourishes e.g. literature, music, theatre

when was the Edwardian era?

1901-1914

what was the Gibson girl era?

- 1895 - 1915

- tall, slim, long hair, small waist, bigger bust

1890s

- s - bend corsets

- collars, blouses, petticoat, gloves, high neckline, lots of hooks and buttons (would have needed a ladies maid to dress)

- not a full corset so could use bikes

- suffragettes - 1880 - 1918

- extravagant dressing - only upper class could afford

1900s

- 1907 onwards corsets got slimmer and straighter and hats got bigger to accentuate waistline

- A-line skirts just above floor length

- 1905 - development of viscose

- middle class copied upper class in modified formed

when was art nouveau?

1890 - 1910

what was art nouveau?

- international art style inspired by natural forms

- organic flowing lines inspired by nature

- emphasis on natural motifs such as flowers

1910s

- corsets became less restrictive

- s bend out of style

- trousers for women - utility clothing (only for working)

- invention of department store

- women had jobs during war - more money meant more freedom

- trench coat made for war - wide lapels, adjustable waist and sleeves

- looser dresses more functional

- hobble skirt - narrow ankles

- beauty ideals:

- small waist, bigger head, petite, doll like

- Smokey eye, dark lips, red cheeks

- Eaton bob

- Paul Poiret

1920s

- cars became mass produced

- more people living in urban areas that rural

- women hired it white collar jobs - led to shorter hair and skirts

- prohibition (ban of alcohol in 1920s) led to increase in crime#

- jazz skyrocketed which popularised speak easys

- flappers - non fitted dress, boxy, no corset, short hair, independent women

- women starting to wear trousers only in home

- tan lines popularised

- coco chanel

when was art deco?

1920s-1930s

what was art deco?

- first appeared in Paris

- characterised by clean lines, geometric shapes

- empire state building , chrystler building

- bold jewel colours

when was the jazz age?

1918 - 1930s

1930s

- Great Depression

- day wear - prints, less dresses, big shoulders, low heels

- evening wear - more figure hugging, feminine, mermaid skirts, backless cut, bias cut ( more drape, more fabric, more expensive)

- tanning, small eyebrows, dark lips

- paris had much less influence on fashion

- women in more stable jobs

- decline in marriage rates - women no longer reliant on men for financial stability

- coco chanel

1940s

- 1947 - the new look by Christian Dior

- small waist, big skirt, more curvy

- utility clothing became only clothing sold - regulated by government - used les material - shorter hemlines

- costume jewellery, elaborate hairstyles, chunky shoes

- clothing needed to accommodate for cycling

- teenagers became a thing

- christian dior

1950s

- 1953 queen Elizabeth II coronation (first televised coronation)

- automation manufacturing increased

- short hair

- hair dye available at home (1 in 4 had dyed hair)

- more casual wear for women

- living standards improved so more disposable income

- working class set their own fashion instead of copying upper class

- women going back to 'defined' role

1960s

- swinging sixties - similar to 20s (bold, daring, economic + industrial expansion)

- twiggy - face of 66

- more girls in higher education

- women able to do service jobs

contraceptive pill - sexual freedom

- mini skirt and dress

- start of 'throw away culture'

- accessibility of washing machines

- mary quant

- pierre cardin

1970s

- viscose popular

- more women in careers (more dependant)

- marriage rates decline (single parenting more acceptable

- jane fonder popularised workout movement

- jean Paul Gautier - conical bra - break traditional French designs

- 1973 - roe v wade

- disco - bee gees

- punk rock - vivienne westwood

- glam rock - bowie

- cheap labour increasing - cutting costs - higher production rates

- inflation, recession - people questioning materialism

- liz hurley safety pin dress

- t shirts not just work wear

- yves saint laurent

1980s

- viscose popular

- more women in careers (more dependant)

- marriage rates decline (single parenting more acceptable

- jane fonder popularised workout movement

- jean Paul Gautier - conical bra - break traditional French designs

- new romantics - western pirate look

- hiphop fashion - logos

- vivienne westwood

1990s

- slip dresses

- bomber jackets

- scrunchies

- sportswear

- jelly sandals

2000s

- Paris Hilton

- juicy couture velour

- low rise

- e commerce - physical shops start online

- logos

- capris

- ballet flats

- Alexander McQueen

key designers throughout the decades

Paul Poiret - 1910s

Coco Chanel - 1920/30s

Christian Dior - 1940s

Mary quant - 1960s

Pierre Cardin - 1960s

Yves Saint Laurent - 1970s

Vivienne Westwood - 1980s

Alexander McQueen - 2000s

Paul Poiret key designs

Harem Pantaloons

- Turkish style trousers

- loose, full shape gathered at the ankle

Lampshade tunic

- short hem length

- hem in hula hoop shape using boning

Hobble skirt

- restricted movement due to long length, narrow at ankles so hard to walk

Kimono capes and coats

- wide sleeves

- overlapped fronts

- simple structure

Paul Poiret influences and design features

- Japanese fashion

- oriental inspired decorative costumes for lavish, fancy balls

- exotic influences e.g. feathers, turbans

- draped fabrics when creating designs

- simple structure

- no corsets or petticoats - liberated women

- vivid, bright colours

- used luxurious materials

Coco Chanel key designs

Little black dress

- chic

- black was symbol of modernity

- first dress of its kind not to be labelled as day or evening wear

- fluid, straight lined silhouette

- opposed previous decade of restrictive corsets

tweed suit (1954)

- straight, structured, single seam down the back

- tweed used to be reserved for menswear but Chanel popularised it for women

- made to liberate women from conventional, restrictive clothes

Coco Chanel influences and design features

- influenced by sports

- popularised black for everyday wear not just for mourning

- used lots of jersey fabric (traditionally for men's underwear)

- designed clothes accessible to everyone that didn't require servants to put them on

Christian Dior key designs

Bar suit

- hip pads

- corolle line

- inspired by la belle epoque

- ultra femininity

- heavy corsets

- peplum jacket

- petticoat needed under skirts

Christian Dior influences and design features

the new look 1947

- ultra femininity

- heavy corsets

- peplum jacket

- petticoat needed under skirts

- softer image after war

- women felt like they were being 'pushed' back into homes (like 20s)

Pierre Cardin key designs

bubble dress

- loose fitting

- cinched waistline + hemline

cylinder line for men

- inspired by space age

- helmets

- collarless jackets - beatles

Pierre Cardin influences and design features

- geometric shapes

- angular silhouettes

- one of the first designers to produce ready to wear clothing

- inspired by space travel

- started the space age fashion movement

- oversized buttons

- futuristic

- used vinyl

- bright, bold colours

- designed space suits for NASA

- popart

- pvc

Vivienne Westwood key designs

new romantics

- adam and the ants

- western pirate look

slogan t shirts

- political

- passionate about fashions effect on climate change

corset as a top

- sexually liberating designs for women

- mini crini - combines Victorian clothes with the modern mini skirt

bondage suit

Vivienne Westwood influences and design features

- inspired by rebellion culture of 50s

- punk

- harris tweed and tartan

- created fetish wear collections at her shop SEX

Yves Saint Laurent key designs

Mondrian dress

- inspired by the paintings from Piet Mondrian

- bright

- straight lines

smoking suit

- shift dress

- classic

- timeless

- functional

- controversial statement of new feminity

Yves Saint Laurent influences and design features

- pop art - bright, colourful

- Piet Mondrian paintings

Mary Quant key designs

mini skirt

- popularised short hemlines

jersey dress

- made of jersey wool often used for sportswear

- versatile

hot pants

PVC coats

Mary Quant influences and design features

- bold colours

- pvc

- simple, youthful designs

- designed for easy movement

Alexander McQueen key designs

bumster collection

- lead to rise in low rise trousers

highland rape collection

- about how England colonised Scotland

spray painted dress

Alexander McQueen influences and design features

- inspired by Victorian goth, taxidermy, nature

- focus tailoring

- incorporated hair, wood, shells, coral, feathers and horns into his work

development of synthetic fibres

- polyamide (nylon) - durable

- acrylic - warm, lightweight, warm

- polyester - strong, cheaper

- Nomex - fire resistant

- Kevlar - bullet + fire resistant - lightweight

- gortex - waterproof, breathable - coats

- Lycra - stretchy

- spandex (elastane) - stretchy - workout movement