Textile Science Final

permanent finish

lasts the life of the item

durable finish

lasts but diminishes with use

temporary finish

lasts until the item is washed or dry cleaned

renewable finish

can be reapplied

applied designs

typically applied after the fabric has been woven, cheaper, could damage fabric

structural designs

permanent, woven or knitted in, more expensive

Moire finish

2 layer of unbalance pain weave pressed together

brushed

after pile has been sheared, fabric is brushed with steam to create nap

embroidered

fabric decoration by hand or machine that applies designs with thread

tufted

yarn stitched into ground fabric and secured with adhesive coating on back

pre-fiber stage

solution dyed limited to synthetic fibers

fiber stage

fabric dyed at the fiber stage, creates heather effect

yarn stage

fabric dyed at the yarn stage, used for structural designs, plaid, stripes

Fabric/ piece stage

solid color fabrics, most common, cheapest

union dyed

fabric dyed so different fibers dye the same hue

cross dyed

dye produces different color to different fibers

product/ garment stage

dyed after product has been sewn/ assembled

direct printing

color is applied directly to fabric

block printing

stamping

direct roller printing

roller engraved with the design, often many rollers used for complicated design or design with multiple colors

discharge printing

design is created by removing color from areas

screen printing

stencil is used to apply designs, often used for t-shirts

bleeding

color loss in water

crocking

color transfer to other products from rubbing

migration

color moves to adjacent areas or skin

fume fading

fading due to atmospheric pollutants

tendering

dye weakens fabric and/or sensitive to abrasion

frosting

with abrasion, white or faded areas appear on fabric, seams, or hems

out-of-register

print misses intended area

warp

Parallel to selvage (up and down)

weft/filling

woven in between the warp (side to side)

Warp beam

holds warp yarns in place

Harness

a usually wooden frame to hold the heddles

Heddle

a wire with an eye through which a warp yarn is inserted. raised and lowered in a pattern depending on fabric being made

Shed

the space created when one harness and set of heddles is raised (to insert shuttle to weave fabric)

Shuttle

a bobbin of filling yarn that gets passed through interchanging sheds to weave fabric

Reed/Batten

beats or pushes filling yarn into place to make the fabric more firm

wales

vertical column of knit stitches “v”

Courses

the horizontal rows of of knit stitches

Gauge

or “cut” indicates the fineness of stitches, number of needles per inch

Plain weave

basic woven structure, 1 up 1 down

basket weave

2 or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harness

Twill weave

each warp or filling yarn floats across 1 or more warp or filling yarns, 2 up 1 down

Satin weave

each warp yarn floats across 4 filling yarns, 4 up 1 down

Sateen

satin structure, but made with spun yarns

Dobby weave

small repeating geometric designs

Extra yarn

addition warp or filling yarns of different colors woven in to create pattern

Pique

small repeating raise design from stuffed threads held up by floats on the back

Jacquard weave

large complex designs that often don’t repeat

Damask

a type of jacquard with only 1 color, pattern contrast comes from satin floats

Brocade

a type of jacquard with many colors often with metallic added yarn

Momie/ Crepe

irregular weave/texture

Leno

warp yarns do not lie parallel, they wrap together before filling yarn is added

Double cloth

3 or more sets of yarns, face and back can look very different

Warp pile

extra set of warp yarns, caterpillar on filling yarns, velvet, terrycloth

Filling pile

extra set of filling yarns, caterpillar on warp yarns, corduroy, velveteen

slack-tension weave

2 warp beams held at different tensions

spun yarn

short staple fibers, can be natural or cut filament yarns

Filament yarns

long fibers, synthetic/regenerated or silk

Boucle yarn

closed loops at regular intervals

Ratine

twisted around ply yarns, at intervals loops thrown out and kinks back

Chenille

cut from specially woven ladder like fabric, forms fringe

composite yarns

have both staple and filament fiber components

weft knits

can be done by hand or machine

tuck stitch

old stitch remain on needle to join next row, form hole

float stitch

create floats on back to change color

single filling knit

1 set of needles, jersey

jersey knit

knit (“v”) on front, purl on back, when stretched will curl to tech face

double filling knits

2 sets of needles, rib knit

rib knit

x2 extension, does not curl, can be 1×1 2×2 3×2 ect

warp knits

machine only, fastest way to knit fabric, tricot, raschel

tricot

does not ravel

raschel

create chain like loop rows, can resemble lace

film

made directly from polymer solution, vinyl

non-woven/ fiberweb

made directly from fibers fused together with pressure or heat

felt

mat or web of (mostly) wool fibers held together by interlocking wool scales

coated

combines woven fabric with polymer film

flocked

a fine natural or synthetic fiber is applied to the surface of fabric

quilted

3 layers: face, batting, and backing fabric stitched together

4 main synthetic fibers

Polyester, nylon, olefin, acrylic

Can be very heat sensitive

Synthetic fiber temperature standards

Known as a color scavenger

Nylon will pick up color from other textiles very easily in the wash

Elastomers

Spandex (elastane), polyurethane

known as a synthetic replacement for wool

acrylic is known as

3 main regerated fibers

Rayon, acetate, lyocell

Manmade from cellulose (usually wood pulp)

Rayon

Rayon was made as…

A cheaper option for silk

Acetate dissolves in…

Dissolves in acetone

Natural Cellulosic Absorbency

good- natural cellulosic fibers are comfortable in warm weather, good for towels and diapers

Natural Cellulosic Temperature Standards

Natural Cellulosic Fibers have the ability to withstand high temps

How to harm natural cellulosic fibers

Natural cellulosic fibers are harmed by mineral acids

natural cellulosic fiber flammability

natural cellulosic fibers ignite quickly and burn freely with an afterglow

Physical Make up of Cotton

Cuticle, primary wall, secondary wall, Lumen

Cotton under a microscope

Convulsions that form ribbon like twists

Flax under a microscope

nodules along the length

Natural protein fiber absorbency

Absorbs moisture without feeling wet, generates heat when wet

Natural protein fiber loft

holds more air between fibers so it keeps the body warmer

physical makeup of wool

Cuticle, cortex, medulla

Natural bicomponent fiber

wool- gives it a natural crimp