Complex Weaves

Warp

________ is slack in bands to give puckered area in stripes.

simple geometric forms

Design contains ________ or motifs.

Warp pile

________: third (pile) yarn set is warp; cut, uncut, or combination of cut and uncut.

Complex Weaves

10/05/2022

Examples

sand crepe, granite cloth, moss crepe, bark cloth, crepe

Use computers or punched cards combines basic weaves

plain, twill, satin

Inventor of Jacquard Loom

Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801

Uses

mosquito netting, fruit packaging and lightweight summer apparel

Pile

raised surface

Warp pile

third (pile) yarn set is warp; cut, uncut, or combination of cut and uncut

Fancy fabrics

- design produced at the same time as the fabric is woven
- more expensive
- more permanent design than applied designs
- specialized looms required

Fancy fabric example

- dobby weaves
- jacquard weaves
- leno weaves
- double cloth weaves
- pile weaves
- true tapestry weaves

Dobby fabrics

- less than 25 different warp yarn arrangements (design contains simple geometric forms or motifs)
- use of computer or punch cards

Dobby fabric examples

- generic dobby fabric
- waffle cloth (honeycomb)

Extra yarn weave

additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or types to create a pattern

Extra yarn weave examples

- eyelash = most common
- dotted swiss aka swivel dot

Pique weave

- from the French word meaning “quilted”
- use of stuffer yarn
- fabric with ridges, wales, or cords held up by floats on back

Pique weave examples

- bedford cord
- pique (pinwale, wide-wale, etc)
- birds-eye
- bullseye pique

Momie weave

- also known as crepe or granite weave
- made with dobby attachment
- irregular interlacing pattern

Momie weave examples

- sand crepe
- granite cloth
- moss crepe
- bark cloth
- crepe

Jacquard weave

- large-figured and elaborate designs
- more than 25 arrangements of warp to produce design
- use computers or punched cards combines basic weaves: plain, twill, satin
- have control of each independent warp yarn

Jacquard weave examples

- damask
- brocade
- tapestry

Double cloth weaves

- fabrics woven with 3, 4, or 5 different sets of yarns
- types: double cloth and double weave

Double cloth

- 5 sets of yarns
- 2 fabrics woven together w/ a 5th binder yarn (2 warp + 2 weft + 1 binder)
- face and back can differ
- CAN separate!

Double weave

- 4 sets of yarn
- 2 cloths INTERWOVEN (2 warp + 2 weft)
- CANNOT separate!
- ex: pocket cloth and matelasse

Leno weave

- 2 warps twisted in figure 8 shape to lock the filling yarns in place
- creates chenille yarn

Leno weave examples

- leno
- marquisette
- casement cloth

leno weave uses

- mosquito netting
- fruit packaging
- lightweight summer apparel

Pile weave

three dimensional woven fabric made with an additional warp or filling yarn set that creates the pile

Filling pile (weft pile) fabrics

- corduroy
- velveteen

Warp pile fabrics

- velvet
- frieze
- terrycloth

Slack tension weave

- warp is slack in bands to give puckered area in stripes
- seersucker
- slack tension warp yarns are longer in the unraveled portion

True tapestry weave

- discontinuous filling yarns create pattern with color or texture
- same structure

Narrow fancy weave fabrics

- woven elastics and trims
- used for apparel, interiors, and technical goods