Cosme Lec - Hair Care Products P1

Primary Function: Removal of soilage (sebum, sweat, environmental dirt, styling residue).

Hair shampoos

Mechanism of Shampoos are ___ preparations.

surfactant-based

What term is this? Surfactants surround oil/dirt particles, lifting them from the hair shaft so they can be rinsed away with water.

Emulsification

Secondary function of shampoo

Beautification,manageability, and scalp health.

Origin of shampoo. It was originally consisting of alkali, natural oils, and fragrances. Head massage

India

Ingredients of shampoo

• Surfactants

• Solvents

• Thickeners

• Opacifiers

• Preservatives

• pH Buffers

• Chelating agents

• Conditioners

• Additional ingredients

• Active ingredients

long-chain electrolytes and are usually classified according to the nature of their hydrophilic group

Surfactants

can act as foam boosters and foam stabilizers. Help create emulsions as well as aid in removal of the product. Different ___, however, have different characteristics and effects on the hair and scalp.

Surfactants

Types of surfactants

Anionic, Cationic, Nonionic, Amphoterics

What surfactant?
These are commonly found in most shampoos due to its good cleansing properties.

Anionic

Anionic surfactant examples

• lauryl sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate;

• laureth sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate;

• sarcosines, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate; and

• sulfosuccinates, such as sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate.

Anionic surfactants are also known as? This is due to their superior cleansing and foaming properties

Cleansers

What surfactant?
These are not as popular as anionics since they do not foam well and do not remove grease as efficiently as anionics.

Cationic

What surfactant?
They are mainly used in formulations where minimal cleansing is required; however, softness and manageability should be increased. Hence, mostly added on daily shampoos and for hair with dyes

Cationic

Cationic surfactant examples

long chain amino esters and ammoniesters; such as

• cetrimonium bromide,

• cetylpyridinium chloride,

• dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride.

What surfactant?
remove static and provide conditioning effects (conditioner products). Not good for cleansing

Cationic

Cationic and anionic surfactants cannot be added together in a single formulation (ture or false)

True

What surfactant?

They are often used in combination with ionic surfactants as co-surfactants, rheology modifiers, and solubilizers for insoluble components such as fragrance oils.

Nonionic

Examples of nonionic surfactants

• poloxamers;

• amine oxides, such as cocamidopropylamine oxide; and

• polyglucosides, such as lauryl glucoside

What surfactant?
These detergents are nonirritating to the eyes, foam moderately well, and increase manageability of hair.

Amphoterics

Examples of amphoterics surfactants

cocamidopropyl betaine, and alkylamino acids.

product: johnson’s baby

Well-lathering shampoos have strong cleansing power. (True or False)

False (rationale: large amount of foam may be poor cleaning. Foam is for aesthetic effect. It must be based on the surfactants ability to emulsify oil)

is the solvent/vehicle for shampoos

water

What shampoo ingredient?
Provide the necessary rheological properties for the systems.

Thickeners

Thickeners increase ___ and influence the product feel.

viscosity

Thickeners examples:

• electrolytes, such as sodium chloride, (most common)

• alkanolamides and water-soluble cellulose derivatives, such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxy vinyl polymers of the Carbopol type, polyvinyl alcohols, and natural gums, such as tragacanth.

• Magnesium aluminum silicates have found application as thickeners and suspending agents in antidandruff shamooos.

This component have found application as thickeners and suspending agents in antidandruff shamooos.

Magnesium aluminum silicates

What shampoo ingredient?
Adjust the pH of products

pH Buffers

Examples of pH Buffers

citric acid and glycolic acid

Adding more surfactants tend to make the pH to_? Leading the hair to become more vulnerable and dry

increase or more alkaline

Ideal pH for hair and scalp products. This pH helps in protecting from bacteria aside from maintaining measure

4.5-5.5

What shampoo ingredient?
These contribute to the stability of the product by binding to metal ions.

Chelating agents

Chelating agent such as Metal ions, such as ______, present in tap water and can form insoluble soaps with shampoos, which, if deposited on the hair, make it dull and less manageable.

magnesium and calcium ions

What shampoo ingredient?
Improve the stability of gels, and increase the efficiency of preservative systems.

Chelating Agents

Example of Chelating agents

EDTA and its derivatives

What shampoo ingredient?
Play an aesthetic role by providing a unique pearly, shimmering effect or a creamy appearance for the formulations.

For this purpose, high-melting, wax-like materials are blended into formulations.

Opacifiers

Examples of opacifiers

• polyglycol esters,

• latex opacifiers/copolymers, and

• pearlescent color additives such as mica and titanium dioxide (MOST COMMON)

What shampoo ingredient?
Prevent the growth of microorganisms in the formulations.

Preservatives

Examples of preservatives

• parabens;

• urea derivatives;

• isothiazolones, such asmethylchloroisothiazolinone;

• as well as benzalkonium chloride, a cationic surfactant.

parabens are derived from

para hydroxybenzoic acid (methyl-paraben, ethylparaben, propylparaben,isobutylparaben(first 3 are most common))

counteracts the effect of shampoos

conditioners

What shampoo ingredient?
These make the hair soft, shiny, and easier to manage.

conditioners

Conditioners can be incorporated into shampoos; products containing such ingredients are usually referred to as___

two-in-one shampoo and conditioner formulations.

Examples of conditioner as shampoo ingredient

• quats,

• humectants, such as glycerin;

• proteins;

• silicones, such as dimethicone among others

What shampoo ingredient?
Include compounds that provide a unique feel or appearance for the products but do not influence their functional property.

Additional ingredients

Additional ingredients example

• color ingredients; perfumes;

• botanical extracts, such as tea tree oil;

• and vitamins, such as vitamin B5(panthenol)

What shampoo ingredient?
These can also be incorporated into shampoos, which make them to be considered drugs.

Active ingredients

What shampoo ingredient?
Most frequently, ingredients that are capable of preventing and/or * treating dandruff are added to shampoos.

Active ingredient

Active ingredients examples

ketoconazole, selenium

Types of shampoo

1. Normal hair shampoos

2. Oily hair shampoos

3. Everyday shampoo

4. Dry hair shampoos

5. Deep cleansing shampoos

6. Baby shampoos

7. Gray Hair Shampoo

8. Hair dyeing shampoos

9. Medicated shampoos

10. Dry shampoos

Type of shampoo?
are designed to clean the hair of persons with moderate sebum production and who do not have chemically processed hair. These shampoos offer good cleansing by using sodium or ammonium lauryl sulfate with minimal conditioning.

Normal hair shampoos

Type of shampoo?
are designed to remove excess sebum from the hair and scalp. This can be accomplished by using strong surfactants, such as lauryl sulfates, with no or minimal conditioners.

Oily hair shampoos

Type of shampoo?
are formulated as gentle formulations that can be used eve day without drying the hair or depositing too much oil on it.

Everyday shampoos

Type of shampoo?

• provide gentle cleansing by incorporating gentle surfactants, such as sulfosuccinates, and good conditioning. Some companies recommend the same products for dry and damaged hair as their main.

• provide a thin coat over the hair fibers and thus reduce the static electricity and increase manageability of fine hair.

Dry hair shampoos

Type of shampoo?

• are designed to thoroughly clean the hair.

• These products are generally used to remove retained hair styling products, such as hair gels, hair sprays, and mousse.

• These shampoos contain stronger surfactants, such as sodium or ammonium lauryl sulfate, similar to oily hair shampoos, to efficiently remove dirt.

Deep cleansing shampoos

Type of shampoo?

• usually milder, based on amphoteric surfactants, such as

  betaines.

• They offer nonirritating properties and minimal sebum production.

Baby shampoos

Type of shampoo?
One new significant consumer segment is for gray hair and consists of products containing blue dyes to make the gray hair color brighter and less yellowish.

Gray Hair Shampoos

Type of shampoo?
are special formulations that are designed to be used after permanent hair dyeing. These shampoos contain cationic surfactants and have an acidic pH, which neutralizes any residual alkalinity from the chemicals used for hair dyeing

Hair dyeing shampoos

Type of shampoo?
are designed to deliver extra benefits to the hair and scalp in addition to cleansing and conditioning. Most contain active ingredients to relieve itching and scaling.

medicated shampoos

Type of shampoo?
were the earliest types of hair cleaning products. They have primarily historical importance; today, their use has diminished. The word "dry" in their name refers to their dosage form (i.e., powder or powder-based aerosol) and not the type of hair they should be used on. Dry shampoos contain powders with good oil-absorbing capacity, such as starch, silica, magnesium stearate, kaolin, and talc.

Dry shampoos

Shampoo formula

Hydration: Thickeners are hydrated in water (often pre-wetted with___).

glycerin

Shampoo formula

Mixing: ___ are added gently to avoid excessive foaming (often under vacuum).

Surfactants

Shampoo formula
Adjustment: ___ are added.

Solubles, fragrance, and preservatives

Shampoo formula
Viscosity Control: If using salt (NaCl) as a thickener, the "___" determines the precise concentration needed to peak viscosity.

Salt Curve

What product?
Purpose: Applied after shampooing to recondition chemically or mechanically damaged hair.

Hair conditioners

Hair conditioners mechanism of action

• Neutralization: Reduces static electricity generated by combing.

• Repair: Fills gaps between lifted cuticle scales.

• Shine: Coats the shaft to improve light reflection.

• Lubrication: Reduces friction to prevent split ends.

Conditioning minimizes frizzy hair. (True or False)

True (rationale: hair becomes negatively charged after brushing, this negative charge repels each strand of the hair making it look frizzy/fly away)

Ingredients present in conditioner

• Quaternary Conditioner

• Film-forming Conditioners

• Protein-containing Conditioners

• Silicone

• Fragrance/Perfumes

• Vitamins

What ingredient in conditioner?
• They neutralize the negative charges and make hair less susceptible to static electricity and shinier.

• Cationic ingredients are beneficial for permanently colored or waved hair where the cuticle is damaged.

Quaternary Conditioners

Quaternary Conditioners examples

widely used cationic conditioners include stearalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride,quaterniums, and polyquaterniums (such as polyquaternium-10).

What ingredient in conditioner?
The thin film creates a smoother surface, which translates to shinier hair, and also reduces static electricity and improves hair manageability.

Film-forming Conditioners

What ingredient in conditioner?
are ideal conditioners for curly and kinky hair, and they can even make hair straightening easier for such hair types if applied in a higher amount.

Film-forming Conditioners

Film-forming Conditioners examples

polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

film-forming conditioners are also known as

polyquats(they fill in the cuticle to make it smooth, applied on towel dried hair)

What ingredient in conditioner?
These contain a small amount of proteins that can penetrate the holes in the hair shaft and increase its fracture strength. The proteins derived from animal tissues, silk, and plants, are hydrolyzed (i.e., broken down) to smaller fragments in order to be able to penetrate the hair shaft.

Protein-containing Conditioners

What ingredient in conditioner?
The longer they are left on the hair, the deeper proteins can penetrate the hair.

Protein-containing Conditioners

What ingredient in conditioner?
Form a thin film on the hair without creating the appearance of greasy and limp hair.

Silicones

What ingredient in conditioner?
Some are water-resistant and, therefore, can remain on the hair shaft even after washing the hair.

Silicones

Silicones example

cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and amodimethicone

What vitamin?
Penetrates hair to strengthen and retain moisture.

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)

What vitamin?
Antioxidant that supports scalp health.

Vitamin C

What vitamin?
Essential for hair structure, though topical efficacy varies compared to dietary intake.

Biotin (B7) & Keratin

What vitamin?
Deficiencies in these are linked to hair shedding/loss.

Vitamin D & Zinc

What ingredient in conditioner?
• Consumer research indicates that smell is one of the key factors in a consumer's decision to purchase and/or use a product.

• Chemicals, both natural and synthetic, are added to cosmetics to provide an appealing fragrance.

Fragrances/Perfumes

Type of conditioner?
● Usually formulated as lotions and are used on wet hair after shampooing. They are left on the hair for a few minutes and then rinsed off.

Instant Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● These conditioners usually contain quats as the main ingredients.

Instant Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● Instant conditioners improve wet combing and are primarily recommended for consumers who shampoo frequently and/or have minimally damaged hair.

Instant Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● Also applied to towel-dried hair and rinsed after a few minutes.

Hair Rinses

Type of conditioner?
● main ingredients in these products are quats, such as stearalkonium chloride

Hair Rinses

Type of conditioner?

● Hair rinses are usually formulated as liquids and are generally intended for fine oily hair, which needs less conditioning.

Hair Rinses

Type of conditioner?
● Their main function is to aid in hair detangling.

Hair Rinses

Type of conditioner?
● Also known as hair masks, are usually recommended for chemically damaged hair and dry hair

Deep Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● They are applied to wet hair and are left on the hair for 20–30 min before rinsing.

Deep Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● They are generally available as creams or oils containing quats and hydrolyzed proteins.

Deep Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● Ex. Protein-containing conditioners

Deep Conditioner

Type of conditioner?
● The most popular leave-in conditioners are oily products based on petrolatum; mineral oil and silicones are designed for thick, curly, or kinky hair.

Leave-in Products

Type of conditioner?
● They can moisturize the hair while aiding in hair styling.

Leave-in Products

Type of conditioner?
● A popular category of leave-in conditioners are blow-drying lotions, which are designed to coat the hair shaft and protect the hair protein from heat damage during the drying process.

● Not washed-off

Leave-in Products

The hair type should be taken into consideration when selecting different conditioners. (True or False)

True

Quality Control Issues

• Common Defects:

• Physical: Separation of emulsions (splitting), clumping, poor viscosity.

• Chemical: Rancidification of oils, pH drift.

• Performance: Poor foaming activity.

• Biological: Microbial contamination.