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herbaceous ornamentals characteristics
do not grow persistent, above ground woody growth
above ground plant material dies when winter comes
most often, valued for their aesthetic qualities
herbaceous ornamentals life cycles
within a life cycle, the plant will grow, flower and set seed to reproduce
annual plant
plant completes entire life cycle in one season
most plant growth focuses on flowering and seed development instead of root or foliage growth
grow quickly and bloom readily
tend to have shallow root system that requires frequent watering and fertilizer use
as plant sets seed, it signals to the plant to start dying (because this may not coincide with the end of the growing season, you should deadhead the plants to encourage continued blooming)
biennial plants
require two growing seasons to complete their life cycle
in the first year, it primarily grows deep root systems and foliage
flowers emerge the second year
energy stored in the roots fuels floral growth
once the plant has flowered and set seed, it will die
biennials are not common in decorative garden beds because of different forms and only flowering every other year
perennial plants
do not completely die when they have completed their life cycle
survive winter by storing energy in underground overwintering structures
focus of growth depends on the season: foliage growth occurs in the spring, followed by flowering and finally root growth in the fall
they may not flower the first year as the plant focuses growth on establishing a root system
once established, the plants are typically a regular landscape feature
hardy plant
best option for surviving MN winters
do not begin to diet back until temperatures reach the low 20s
roots and underground storage systems can withstand harsh winters, often without need for extra protection
half-hardy plants
less like to survive harsh MN winter
May need additional garden protection such as mulch or snow cover
can sustain a light frost and will begin to die back when temps reach upper 20s
tender plants
cannot survive a frost
leaf tissue May be injured when temps drop into 40s and 50s
must be overwintered indoors or treated as annuals in the garden
cultivar
cultivated variety of a species, often bred to have particular characteristics of color or shape
when you choose a specific cultivar, you are simply choosing a specific variety of a plant species
hybrid
type of cultivar created by crossing two different cultivars together
plants can be hybridized to develop different colors, flower shapes, foliage characteristics of disease resistance
may be increasingly likely to bloom and grow in the garden due to hybrid vigor
not possible to reproduce hybrid plants from seed (seeds create offspring that are a genetic combination of the parent plants, not identical copies)
native plants
evolved to grow in MN and are adapted to the climate and soil conditions
are preferred for pollinator gardens because they provide better food sources for native pollinators and wildlife
once established, native plants can be easier to grow compared to non native plants
provide a specific ecosystem service that non-natives cannot do as well
bulbs
group of herbaceous ornamentals that grow from underground, modified plant parts
these structures store energy for the plant to produce showy blooms or big ornamental leaves
true bulbs are modified leaves and include tulips, hyacinth and daffodils
corms are modified stems and include gladiolus
rhizomes are also modified stems and include calla lilies
tuberous roots are modified roots and include dahlias
also categorized by when they bloom:
spring flowering bulbs require a cold treatment in order to flower and should be planted in the fall
summer flowering bulbs are tender and require planting in the spring after the danger of frost has passed
garden considerations
environmental conditions (sun exposure, etc)
soil (sandy, well drained, etc)
time and effort you want to put into it (annual flower beds require more work than perennial ones, but perennial gardens are more expensive and will require more initial work)
garden goals
plant size (avoid overcrowding plants, especially perennials to avoid disease and nutrient issues)
timing for planting (depends on the cold tolerance of your plants)
sun exposure
deep shade - receive no sunlight
full shade - less than three hours of sunlight
light to part shade - 3 - 6 hours of sunlight
partly sunny - six to eight hours of sunlight
full sun - at least eight to twelve hours of sunlight
planting herbaceous ornamentals
remove any turf, mulch or weeds from space
dig a hole the size of the root ball, taking care to avoid digging too deeply
the soil line of the plant in a container should be level with the ground in the garden
remove the plant from the container and loosen up the roots
lower the plant into the hole and tamp down soil as you refill it
water and pinch off blooms (this encourages the plant to establish more quickly by focusing on root growth rather than blooms)
maintaining herbaceous ornamentals (8)
mulch (reduces weed seed germination, keeps moisture in soil, conserves water and can reduce the spread of disease)
weed (important for overall health of the garden: weeds compete for resources, can be a vector for diseases)
water (need about 1 - 2 inches of water/ week, water deeply at the base of the plant and allow the water to infiltrate the soil slowly, keep the canopy of the plant as free from water as possible)
fertilize (annual plants more likely to need fertilizer, look for signs of nutrient deficiency)
deadhead (encourages plant to continue producing flowers throughout the season rather than seeds)
divide (if you notice reduced growth, fewer blooms and dead spots in the middle of on the sides of the plant)
bulbs (add soil amendments or fertilizer when planting your bulbs, plant at correct depth and time, choose a location with full sun, deadhead to discourage seed growth, let the leaves dies back naturally, relocate after the leaves and flowers have died back naturally)
winter prep (removal of dead foliage and apply mulch or don’t apply mulch and leave 12 - 18 inches of plant material for pollinators)
container gardens how to
capacity of drainage of container is most important feature to avoid disease or root rot
type of container material may affect how often you need to water (porous, hanging or dark or metal pots may require more watering)
choose a container large enough to support your plant and its overall growth (perennials, woody plants and vegetables need more soil volume compared to annuals)
grow best with soilless media
do not use pottery shards, rocks or other material to fill the bottom of the container (not beneficial for plant growth and reduces the amount of root space your plants have to grow)
water and fertilize regularly
don’t overferilize as it can reduce blooms and increase the demand of water in your containers
pollinator gardens how to
have a diversity to support wide variety of pollinators (variety of colors, flower shapes, flowers blooming throughout the season)
choose native plants if possible (or start with milkweed, purple coneflowers and asters)
choose varieties that have easily accessible pollen and nectar to feed pollinators (double petals obscure nectar sources)
include elements that support how pollinators live (leaving spaces for nesting, grow plants for caterpillars to consume, and provide water, plant the same flowers in masses of at least six plants - masses of flowers provide color that is more prominent and a stronger fragrance that helps direct the bees)
leave some mess in your garden over the winter
avoid the use of pesticides if possible
raised beds how to
good for better accessibility, or to have better soil than what might be available in the ground
mounded garden bed - easiest type, good choice for vegetables
avoid using railroad ties or pressure treated wood as they can Leach chemicals into the soil
gardens built on top of non porous materials should be at least two feet deep, while those on top of soil don’t require as much depth
do not step in garden bed
don’t make them to wide so they remain accessible
use high quality top soil mixed with compost
if building a shorter raised bed on top of existing soil, till the soil to disrupt the surface layer - this allows a better connection between the raised bed and ground
require similar care to that of a container garden (water and fertilizer more often than in ground garden)
weed and mulch
provide unique ability to provide the conditions for especially challenging plants to grow
because of exposure, can cause frost injury to roots of perennials