Marine Processes

What is sediment transport?

the movement of sediment along the coast by waves, tides, and currents

What is traction?

large boulders and pebbles are rolled along the seabed by the force of water

What is saltation?

small pebbles and sand bounce along the seabed in a hopping motion

What is suspension?

fine sand and silt are carried within the water

What is solution?

soluble materials are dissolved in water and carried along

What is the role of tidal currents in coastal processes?

move sediment in and out of estuaries and along coasts

What is fetch?

the distance over water that the wind blows to generate waves

How does wind influence wave energy?

stronger, longer, and more persistent wind increases wave height and energy

What is the difference between constructive and destructive wave profiles?

• constructive waves build up beaches with swash dominance

• destructive waves erode beaches with backwash dominance

What is wave refraction?

the bending of waves as they approach the coast, concentrating energy on headlands and reducing energy in bays

What is a wave-cut notch?

a hollow at the base of a cliff formed by erosion

What is a wave-cut platform?

a flat area left behind as a cliff retreats