HISTORY OF FASHION III

merovingian

early frankish dynasty (5th–8th c.), simple draped garments, influenced by roman styles

anglo-saxon

early english culture, practical wool clothing, tunics and cloaks, minimal tailoring

norman

viking-descended rulers, conquered england in 1066, introduced more fitted and structured clothing

alb

long white linen robe worn by clergy, symbolizes purity

chasuble

outer garment worn during mass, loose circular shape, represents religious authority

cowl

hooded cloak worn by monks, symbolizes modesty and devotion

cote

basic tunic worn by all classes, foundation garment

surcote

outer garment worn over cote, often sleeveless, used to display wealth and status

chemise

light linen undergarment worn next to skin, protects outer garments

braies

loose linen undergarment for men, tied at the waist

bliaut

noble garment (12th c.), fitted torso with long flowing skirt, early example of tailoring

gamurra

italian dress with fitted bodice and skirt, transitional garment into renaissance fashion

kaftan

long robe from eastern cultures, introduced through trade, associated with luxury

mantle

cloak fastened at shoulders, used for warmth and status

pelisse

fur-lined outer garment, clear indicator of wealth and rank

woad

plant used to create blue dye, important for medieval textiles

doublet

fitted padded jacket worn by men, worn alone or under armor

hose

leg coverings worn with doublet, became tighter over time

livery

uniform given by nobles to servants, shows loyalty and affiliation

hauberk

chainmail shirt worn as armor, protects torso and arms

fall of western roman empire

476 ce

end of ancient rome

beginning of medieval europe

founding of al-andalus

711 ce

muslim rule in spain begins

leads to cultural and textile exchange

founding of holy roman empire

800 ce

charlemagne crowned emperor

political and cultural unification

black death

1347–1351

major plague

massive population loss

economic and social change

textile production development

guilds controlled trades and training

men were weavers and women were spinners

horizontal loom and spinning wheel increased production speed

crusades + merchant class influence

trade routes expanded

luxury goods like silk and spices entered europe

merchant class gained wealth

sumptuary laws restricted who could wear luxury items

dress as social status

nobles wore silk, fur, and bright dyes

merchants wore fashionable but less expensive fabrics

peasants wore simple wool clothing

tailoring and construction advances

set-in sleeves, buttons, and fitted garments improved clothing shape, foundation for modern tailoring

bombast

padding used to stuff garments, creates exaggerated shapes

doublets

tight-fitting men’s jackets, often padded to shape the torso

hose

tight leg coverings, often split into two parts

chopines

tall platform shoes worn by women, symbolize wealth and status

codpieces

padded front flap on men’s hose, emphasizes masculinity and status

stomacher

decorative triangular panel on women’s bodices, often heavily ornamented

verdugales

spanish hoop skirts, create cone-shaped silhouette

ropa

loose outer gown influenced by spanish and ottoman styles

farthingales

structured underskirts that extend skirts outward, cone or drum shape

slashing

cutting outer fabric to reveal inner layers, shows wealth through multiple fabrics

ruff

pleated stiff collar worn around the neck, symbol of status and fashion

fall of constantinople

1453

ottoman empire takes control

shifts trade routes and increases eastern influence

catherine de medici

arrived to france in 1533

brings italian fashion and luxury influence to french society

italian renaissance

cultural and artistic revival begins in italy from c.1300-1600

northern renaissance

renaissance ideas spread to northern europe from c.1400-1600

protestant reformation

religious movement begins in 1517

leads to simpler dress among protestants

textile production development

italy leads in silk and wool production

tailoring workshops expand

knitting machine improves efficiency

global trade influence

expanded trade routes bring new fabrics and styles

ottoman influence introduces eastern garments

trends like slashing and spanish silhouettes grow

dress as status and religion

clothing shows wealth and belief

catholics favor ornate styles

protestants prefer simple and modest dress

fashion structure advances

use of padding and structural garments like verdugales creates dramatic shapes, influences future european fashion