MATERIALS OF DESIGN AND DECORATION (FABRIC FINISHES)

grey/greige goods

Rough and full of blemishes and impurities, fabrics at this stage are called

Temporary Finish

Finish that lasts until the fabric is washed or dry-cleaned

Durable Finish

Finish that is longer than temporary but it may become unsatisfactory with passing of time

Permanent Finish

Finish that lasts until the garment is of service

General Finish

A classification of Fabric Finish that are superficial and affect the texture and appearance of the cloth

Special Finish

A classification of Fabric Finish that are more in-depth and affect the performance of the cloth, giving the fabric special service feature which improves its properties and functions

Beetling (Pinukpok)

Common finishing process for linen, gives the cloth a firm, flattened and lustrous appearance, the fabric is hammered. Cotton fabrics can be made to simulate linen by beetling.

Pinukpok

A term for a fabric from abaca that underwent beetling

Bleaching

Done before the dyeing or printing process, fabric is white and impurities removed, warp sizing and waxes and other foreign impurities are removed, necessary to increase fabric's ability to absorb dye

Calendering

Makes the fabrics smooth and glossy, passing the fabric between heavily heated sheet rollers. Surface designs are also made possible

Decating or Decatizing

This finishing process improves the appearance, enhances luster and hand of the material

Dry Decating Process

A type of Decating Process in which the cloth (cotton, rayon, or silk) is wound on a perfortated drum, between layers of a blanket, then steam passes through from the inside to the outside layers

Wet Decating Process

A type of Decating Process in which the cloth is wound on a roller and treated in hot water or steam boiler which also has a vacuum system to possibly help overcome uneven or blotchy dyeing

Fulling

Applied to wool fabrics, a pre-shrinking process involves the application of moisture, heat, friction and pressure, results in felting and gives fabric a fuller, more compact body

Mercerizing

A process that makes fabric shinier. A very common finishing process for cotton, treated with strong caustic soda under tension to increase strength, reduce shrinkage, and give greater absorbency but causes fiber to swell. increases the light reflection off the fiber giving it lustrous appearance.

Singeing or Gassing

The finishing process applied to fabrics for the purpose of removing the fuzz of protruding fibers

Sizing or Dressing

A type of General (Fabric) Finish Process in which the cloth is filled with starch to increase strength, smoothness, stiffness, or weight

Tentering, Stentering, or Heat-Setting

A type of General (Fabric) Finish Process which straightens and restores the cloth to its proper dimensions in a machine wherein along each side are continuous chains equipped with tenter clips to grasp the cloth at the selvages and stretch it to shape before it is passed through a hot-air drying chamber, drying the cloth under tension to heat-set the weave to its proper width

Antiseptic Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish which is a chemical treatment designed to make a fabric bacteria-resistant by imparting a self-sterilizing quality to a fabric to inhibit growth of a broad spectrum of bacteria, including odor-causing germs

Anti-Static Finish

This type finish can prevent clothing from clinging to the wearer's body.

Crease-Resistant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish wherein synthetic resins fill up porous openings to fabrics such as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon which do not have the natural elasticity of silk and wool to make them smoother, prevent swelling, and make fabrics quick-drying

Flame Retardant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish wherein compounds such as ammonium sulphonate are applied directly to fabric to prevent it from catching flame or burning actively; and disappears after being washed or dry-clean and may cause fabrics to lose its softness and flexibility

Glazed Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish which may be obtained through chemical and mechanical means such as resin-treated fabric; and the durability of this finish can be prolonged by care in laundry and dry-cleaning

Heat-Reflectant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish which makes fabric (especially reversible vests and blazers) suitable to holt or cold weather by bonding metallic particles to a drapery or garment lining fabric of various types of construction to provide selective radiation; in cold weather, radiated heat is reflected back to the body and in warm weather, outside heat is reflected away from the body

Mildew-Resistant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish which prevents the growth of mildew and mold in moist and humid conditions or climates to rayon, cotton, and linen

Moth-Resistant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish characterized as a chemical finish used for wool fabrics to make them resistant to attacks by moths and carpet beetles

Napping

A mechanical finish of subjecting the surface of a fabric to a brushing process to raise the fiber end this creating fuzziness (pajames, blanket, etc)

Shrink-Resistant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish in which a dyeing frame in a textile mill is overfed a fabric and stretch is applied in the crosswise direction of the fabric or applying controlled compression forces parallel to the surface of the fabric, pushing together the warp yarns thus releasing the weaving strains

Sanforized

Describes fabric that is guaranteed not to shrink more than 1 percent and a label applied to cotton or linen with shrink-resistant finish

Slip-Resistant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish given to loosely constructed fabrics or fabrics with low thread count to prevent the warm yarns from slipping along the filling yarns due to constant wear and strain; permanent firmness can be given to the fabric by immersing it in synthetic resins before being stretched and dried under tension

Soil and Stain Resistant Finish

A type of Special (Fabric) Finish usually made of silicon compound usually given to rug and upholstery fabrics to repel soil and stain which makes the fabrics water-repellent such that water-borne stains cannot penetrate; uses fluorocarbon compounds to make the fabric resistant to oil-borne stains; may be sprayed onto the fabric; not a permanent finish, just durable and loses effect after several washes

Scotchgard

Trade name for stain repeller

Mini-Care Finish

Referred to as the drip-dry finish, similar to crease resistant also known as Wash and Wear Finish

Water-Reppelant Finish

A chemical finish make fabric resistant to wetting but not waterproof and spot-resistant

Waterproof Finish

It coats the fabric thus closing pores and enabling it to shed water under all pressure